helrazr70

I did use a DVOM. I had 12V on both sides of the switch. The resolution: I swung by CJ Pony Parts when I was in Harrisburg today and picked up a brake switch, turn signal cam, and a turn signal switch. (FYI: now you can buy a switch WITH a harness connector. New ones used to come without the plastic connector and you had to install each wire/terminal from the new switch into your original connector.) The easiest to try was the turn signal switch. I popped the plug loose under the column and plugged the new one in and then reconnected the battery. BOOM! Brake lights galore! I popped the steering wheel off and checked things over and found that the cam was a little loose and there was a flat piece of metal sticking out from under the edge. I am guessing I hit the turn signal lever at some point and knocked the metal piece loose. I assume that the metal bar was a conductor of some sort for when the brakes are applied. I will just install the new switch and rebuild the old one and keep it for a rainy day, another car, or ebay. Thanks for all the help and suggestions!

I bought mine last week from http://www.fordracingparts123.com for $233 shipped. Billet, 157T, 28oz. Copy and paste from my confirmation email: Your Order Contains... Flywheel Steel 157 28.2 M-6375-A302B M-6375-A302B 1 $206.08 USD $206.08 USD Subtotal: $206.08 USD Shipping: $27.80 USD *EDIT* It's also made for a 10.5" clutch

Yes they do.

I checked the tailight bulbs and they didn't blow. I checked the ground at both taillights--both good. Running lights are fine. ...just the brake lights.

I was replacing the auto brake pedal with a manual pedal and after I got it installed the brake lights do not work. The headlights, turn signals, parking lights, instrument cluster, courtesy, and hazard lights all work. It's ONLY the brake lights. The only tell-tale thing that happened was that the brake light switch fell down and made contact with the brake pedal and there was a brief arc. I replaced the fuse and the brake lights still don't work. I got out the test light and with the key on I have power on both sides of all fuses. I also tested the brake light switch. With it unpressed I have power on one side of the brake switch and with the pedal pressed I have power on both sides of the switch. I traced the wiring through the diagram but I lose it into the column harness for the turn signal switch--which has everything working. Did I blow the brake switch or turn signal switch? I am stumped.

Sorry, they were picked up about 2hrs ago. They sold on craigslist. Thanks for looking.

these items sold earlier today. Thanks for looking. I am located an hour NW or Philadelphia, PA. I have a pair of 69/70 Mustang doors that are NEW and unused. They have only been out of the box for pictures. I ordered these late last year and never opened the boxes. Once I did open the boxes I found that both of them have the front edges damaged. (minor damage to the front edge lip from the box being dropped) I ordered 2 doors more thinking I would be reimbursed by the shipping company but the deadline for claims had passed so I still have them and the replacements I bought. Soooo I don't need these anymore. The replacements fit very well and I am satisfied with the replacements I bought and installed. They fit like a glove. They needed absolutley no tweaking or fitment cutting/welding. I paid $369 for each door ($738 for the pair) plus $104 shipping for them from Mustangs Unlimited in Georgia. I have $842 in these and I am selling them for $400. They are still new in their boxes and only need a little hammer and dolly work. I also have a pair of 69 Mustang fastback rear OEM 1/4 panels (skins) for sale. (They were NOS 1/4s that were installed in the 70s that were damaged by a vinyl top at the roof joint and below--but are great from the beltline down) $400 for the doors or trade for other 69/70 engine, body, suspension, or interior parts.

Mine aren't welded on yet, but they seem to fit pretty well with only minor tweaking.

A few progress pics.

A few more pics.

It is a '69 Fastback. It came equipped with P/S, A/C, Power Drum Brakes, H code 351W 2V, FMX trans, and 3.00:1 open 9" rear end. It also came with a Mach 1 style hood scoop and blue standard interior. I picked this car up in May of 2009. I had known of it's existence for several years but never saw it. I told the owner that if he ever sold it I would buy it if the price were right. He told me it was rough but he would would be fair on the price. He is a car dealer and the car has been at his home under a tree and he never lets anyone except family come to his house due to the nature of his business. I am a friend of his son and have known them for years. I had waited since 2003 to see this car! The car was purchased from a customer in 1991. The car lot owner didn't like the faded Winter Blue paint so he sent it out to be stripped to metal and repainted white in September of 1991. There were dents in the roof so he had a vinyl top installed to cut corners. Once painted it was driven from the paint shop to his house. He planned to drive it to the lot to put it up for sale but it didn't start. He tinkered with it until he gave up. It got pushed under a tree where is sat until May of 2009. When I got it the body was in sad shape. The body was covered in lichens and mold. The vinyl roof seams had split and the roof was completely eaten out. The upper rear 1/4s in the sail panel area were eaten out as well. The front floors looked like most do and the rear edges of the front torque boxes are rotten. The floor supports aren't bad at all but will be replaced. It has poor weld repairs on a cracked driver side shock tower and the door shells both had the lower corners rusted out as well as holes in the skins. The hood, fenders, trunk lid, and upper doors had serious pitted surface rust. (none penetrating) So far I have cleaned up the car and gotten it running. The freeze/core plugs rusted and leak water so I didn't run it long. I had to break 2 of the brake drums to get it to roll and the brake lines are probably rusty on the inside so I have not tried to drop it in gear. I have begun replacing the roof, rear 1/4s and doors with Dynacorn repro parts. So far the part quality is good. I have not welded them on yet. I have only hung them in place. I am attaching them for now with sheetmetal screws and welding them on later after I move it to PA. (2 weeks from now) I will post progress updates as I go. I am only an amateur restorer. I have completed one '69 Mustang in the past but had to sell it due to financial issues. I famred the paint and body out but did the rest myself. This one will be more challenging!

Another thought... A few folks have said it would be easier to go pay $5-$10k for a rust free body. Tht is true--it would be easier. I just don't have $5-$10k. I paid $1200 for the car. I just paid a little over $1800 for: new roof skin 2 new door shells 2 new full rear 1/4s new deck lid spoiler new spoiler reinforcement brackets new chin spoiler new driver door latch I paid $260 for: used rust free passenger seat riser used rust free passenger door jamb panel (striker mounts to it) used deluxe instrument cluster and clock panel passenger bolt-in door glass (mine was broken) I have about $3300 invested in this car including misc supplies. The car runs and is 100% complete. All I need for it is a driver shock tower, floors, floor supports, and one torque box and it will be rust free. So I will have a running rust free car for about $4k and my labor. It is difficult to find a complete, running, rust free '69 fastback for less than $5k. I know it's a lot of blood, sweat, and tears, (more blood than tears--long story) but I think it will be worth it in the end with my limited budget due to my wife losing her job and me being transferred 800 miles away. The bright side is that if I am not happy with my work I can always sell it and buy a rust free body to continue with. Every step is a step closer to completion or a higher sale price if I decide to buy another body. Stay tuned for more progress pics! :)

Email for pics. Why use repro Chinese metal to patch your rear 1/4s? Why use an ill fitting foreign part when you can have FACTORY FORD sheetmetal? Repro skins cost about $119ea plus shipping. I will sell these used NOS panels for $200/pr. (Yes, I know--all parts on cars are used NOS! These were installed AFTER the factory and purchased as NOS at the time) The panels are in Nashville, TN. My car had been wrecked in the 80s and both rear 1/4s had been replaced with NOS rear 1/4s. (They actually cut down NOS full quarters to make skins) In 1991 the previous owner had a vinyl top installed to hide poor bodywork on 2 dents in the roof. (He was a car dealer and vinyl was cheaper than bodywork) After the vinyl roof and a paintjob in 1991 the car was parked under a tree and forgotten about. Fast-forward to May of 2009...I bought the car and found that the roof and upper rear 1/4s had completely rusted out due to the vinyl roof. The rear 1/4 skins are in great shape. They have no rust through. With a little work they would make a great addition to a fastback/Mach 1. I would rather use these than repro if I had the choice. These are cut just below the roof ornament and include the horizontal section from the taillight to the door jamb. They go from below the roof ornament to the rocker. The driver side has no dents and appears to have a little bondo behind the rear wheel only to cover a small dent. (The NOS part number shows on the inside) ON the outside there are no dents showing. There are a few bubbles popping up through the paintt the lower edge behind the rear wheel. The passenger side has a small of bondo at the lower section behind the rear wheel to cover a small dent--no rust at all. (The NOS part number shows on the inside) A lower rear 1/4 patch would make it perfect. I would reuse them myself, but I need upper rear 1/4s (sail panel area) and full 1/4s are the only way I can get that area. Come get them soon! ...or I can ship them soon. I am moing to PA February 1st! Email for pictures. My pics are too big to post.

It's possible your old springs had sagged an inch or so over the years. The addition of the new components probably moved the car closer to where it should be. Also, the thickness of the spring insulators can make a difference on ride ehight.

Mustangs Unlimited carries a "premium" floor support for 69/70 which has the holes cut but it's more expensive. Check their website. I ordered a Dynacorn driver torque box from Laurel Mountain Mustang through ebay. It looks nice in my garage floor but I have not installed it yet. It has all the proper e-brake cable holes and it comes in 3 pieces. (vertical/bottom section, top section, and triangular brace. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/69-70-MUSTANG-TORQUE-BOX-HEAVY-GAUGE-STEEL-CPE-FB-LH_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1e5a0477b6QQitemZ130359261110QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories