jag

This sounds just like the problem I had earlier this year. It was my Pertronix II. I have since gone back to coil and points. The car runs great. Try just putting points back in. That will let you know if it is the Pertronix or something else. JAG

Use the vendor hardware. It is good and works. I had no problem when I did it. Can't remember who I bought from. It was either Virg Must or NPD. JAG

On my previous reply i forgot to say that the under $50 was for the hose from the cyclinder to control valve. The original hoses from the pump always hung low. I did not like it in the 70s and it still looks the same. JAG

You can get exact replacements from NPD & Virginia Mustang for under $50. These are the hoses that come from Scott Drake. That is not a lot of money to spend on hoses that you do not want to rupture. JAG

I am not saying that setup is stock, but....I have a good friend who has a 70 429 Boss restored by Ed Meyers. My friend is a BIG time Ford collector and knows alot about older Fords. In conversations with him he said he had a 70 Mach (in the 70s)with a ram air setup from the factory. He said it was not a shaker. He also said it utilized the "pie" cutouts on the stock hood. In previous threads those pie cutouts were discussed and I think some were cut from the factory. Back in the day everyone wanted a Shaker and anything else was not as cool. My opinion is they were still available if you knew how to order, but it was not ordered very much and dropped as an option. As others said that was technology from '68 and OLD stuff. NOT what the kids wanted when there were Shakers available. JAG Not sure but the facts fit

Don't know if this will help ut I will put it out here. In about 1976 my 351 w 2 barrel Mach 1 (non air) skipped a tooth on the timing chain. I had a 351 CJ in my 1972 Mach 1 that was rear ended. I pulled the CJ out of my 72 and put it into my 69 and used the wiring harness from the 69 without any modifications. The engine ran great in the 69. JAG

Buening you have the pictures for the correct antennnas for our cars. Relic what you have is an original antenna that someone snapped the mast off. In the day you could go to any parts place and buy an aftermarket replacement mast. These masts slide over the stub that is left once the mast is breoken off the original mast. The set screw keeps the replacement mast on the original antenna stub. This was much easier and cheaper than buying an entirely new antenna as Buening has in his pictures. JAG

Buening, I agree with you. The pictures you show are the stock antennas. After reading Relics last post he is describing an original antenna that was snapped off. They made replacment antenna masts that went over the original base and had a set screw to hold the replacement antenna on the original base. These were cheaper tahn replacing the entire antenna. JAG

I saw many antennas in the 60s & 70s, I had never seen an antenna like you are describing. Kids would break antenna off for fun and you would have to replace the entire antenna. The antennas of the day were one piece. Some of the replacement antennas of the day were as you described. Please post a picture so I can be sure what you have...I may have not seen the type you have. JAG

Tony 63C I already have a 1967 Holley from a 390. It is Ok but when it gets cold (winter) it always starts to leak at the Carb screws. I tighten them up and it stops leaking but not before my intake paint ends up discolored. Pain in the butt! JAG

Thanks Bobh67 I had not heard of All American Carburetors. Looked at the website and it looks promising. I will have to give them a call later in the year. JAG

I was afraid he might be out of business. I wanted him to go over a stock 4300. I am trying to stay stock. Does anyone know if someone else does 4300s like Jon did? Carbon tooters does not do 4300s. JAG

I know this has been posted before but....Are they finally out of business? Their EBay carb listings do not seem to be good anymore. Doe snayone have info on this? JAG

I know this has been posted before but....Are they finally out of business? Their EBay carb listings do not seem to be good anymore. Doe snayone have info on this? JAG

There is only on to my knowledge. My 70 Mach 1 351W has only one and it looks like the picture, but painted blue. (stock engine) JAG

There is only on to my knowledge. My 70 Mach 1 351W has only one and it looks like the picture, but painted blue. (stock engine) JAG

jkskinsfan....Thank you for the info on the black. JAG

Thank You Fordrevhead Now that I know the correct coolr I have to decide if I want the correct color or black which looks much better, in my opinion! JAG

Does anyone know what is the correct color for the grill on the '70 Mach 1s? Is is it Argent silver or black If it is black what is the spec? Thanks in advance JAG

Thanks for your take on this issue. Now I will just have to decide which way to go. JAG

Thanks for the reply B Nickel. I was looking on EBay and trying to decide whether to go 4100 or 4300. I have a stock Mach 1 and try to keep it stock.To stay stock or not. The million dollar question. JAG

Does anyone know where I can get a '69 4300 carb? I am going to try and get it working on my early 70. JAG

A heater core can have an effect on temps at idle. My car consistently ran at the top of the temp range. I changed everything to no avail. The next year I developed a heater core leak. I replaced it. My car now runs almost too cool. The only difference is the heater core. That is the path back to the heater. If it is 50% plugged do you get 100% flow to the radiator that it was designed for? JAG

I read the posts and it seems like the key is lack of flow at idle conditions. You seem to have checked all except a partially plugged heater core. That would be a definite restriction. To easily check it out, bypass the heater core in the engine compartment and re-check the flow in the radiator at idle. My two cents JAG

I recently did a shaker conversion on a 70 mach 1 351 W. It turned out great. That being said I would buy a OEM base anytime I find one. It is what is supposed to be there. I would say get the OEM base and you know it will be 100% correct. JAG