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About jag

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  1. Ridge Runner, i had the same problem as you. ( passener side adjust great but driver side corner high) To get the driver side aligned, the passenegr side needed to be tightened first. Then loosen the driver side hinge and get someone to push up on the driver side hood corner (front). As he pushes up tighten the hinge and the hood is lined up perfectly. This has worked multiple times for me. Good luck jag
  2. Is your shakre upper a real for Ford piece or a reproduction? I ask because on my Shaker uppper (from Ford) it has adjustments to move the Fined upper forward or backward in the hood cutout. Jag
  3. The engine bay paint and the flat black on the hood are two different blacks.
  4. If you are doing a correct restoration, the fins should be painted and not paint taken off to the aluminum. JAG
  5. I had an original upper and mid plate. I combined those with an Aussie fiber glass lower. Nobody has figured out that it is not an original setup. I cut up a repo hood using the online template. It turned out excellant. I would never go back. Sure it is not the cheapest mod but price is soon forgotton when you see the result.
  6. I bought the Boss 302 repo bracket from NPD. I then cut the top of the shaker mounting hole to become an "open" v style. This lets the bolt on the Shaker drop right in from the top. Really easy....
  7. Raven R Code the strip kit on the truck was reflective, Bought a 69 Mach1 used in 1973. All portions of the stripes were reflective. Jag
  8. I am not much help but I have replacement bumpers on my 70 Mach 1. I am happy with the bumpers but, I cannot remember where I bought them. It was either NPD or Virginia Mustangs.......sorry JAG
  9. Dad, sorry for the really late reply. I use the Jaeger Brothers mud flaps. I love them. I get to the show, the flaps are off in literally 30 seconds. I put them back on when I leave and that takes 1 minute tops. I would not use anything else. There are no holes to drill or clips to lose. JAG
  10. Just to add my 2 cents....back in he 70's the replacement switches did slide in easily. You did not need to lube them up. I replaced mine then and it was easy. Maybe Daniel Carpenter has made the insert correctly. JAG
  11. With the front wheels on the ground, you run the risk of hurting your slave cylinder. I say that because I ruined one on a 66 Fairlane GTA. I did tow it from San Diego to Iowa ..... more than 45 miles though. I had the drive shaft off and all four wheels were on the ground. JAG
  12. 69 Mustang.... sorry I was not able to get back to you sooner. I do not have any pictures of the repair I described since the car was totaled many years ago. This repair was done by a very respected frame man. It also looked very good from the outside. To make the inside breaks look good you will need to pull the engine. JAG
  13. You asked if this could be fixed without pulling the engine. The answer is yes. 30 yr ago this happened to my car. The shock towers started to rust through at the bottom and then the tops started to pull loose and move in. I took it to a frame shop. He pulled the tops back in and welded them. With the front wheel off he cut some thick steel to fit in the pocket below the shock to above the break in the shock tower. The entire outside edge of this piece was then welded to the frame and shock tower. After the repair the towers never moved at all. Hope you can understand my description. JAG
  14. I have a fiber glass base under an original upper ram air unit. It has been three years and it looks like the day it was installed. It was what I had to do since I could not find an original base for a Windsor. Jag
  15. I have the fiberglass base from Australia. I have had it for three years and have no problems. It looks great and it does not "melt" . I do wonder about your restorer though. JAG
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