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Everything posted by jag

  1. Ridge Runner, i had the same problem as you. ( passener side adjust great but driver side corner high) To get the driver side aligned, the passenegr side needed to be tightened first. Then loosen the driver side hinge and get someone to push up on the driver side hood corner (front). As he pushes up tighten the hinge and the hood is lined up perfectly. This has worked multiple times for me. Good luck jag
  2. Is your shakre upper a real for Ford piece or a reproduction? I ask because on my Shaker uppper (from Ford) it has adjustments to move the Fined upper forward or backward in the hood cutout. Jag
  3. The engine bay paint and the flat black on the hood are two different blacks.
  4. If you are doing a correct restoration, the fins should be painted and not paint taken off to the aluminum. JAG
  5. I had an original upper and mid plate. I combined those with an Aussie fiber glass lower. Nobody has figured out that it is not an original setup. I cut up a repo hood using the online template. It turned out excellant. I would never go back. Sure it is not the cheapest mod but price is soon forgotton when you see the result.
  6. I bought the Boss 302 repo bracket from NPD. I then cut the top of the shaker mounting hole to become an "open" v style. This lets the bolt on the Shaker drop right in from the top. Really easy....
  7. Raven R Code the strip kit on the truck was reflective, Bought a 69 Mach1 used in 1973. All portions of the stripes were reflective. Jag
  8. I am not much help but I have replacement bumpers on my 70 Mach 1. I am happy with the bumpers but, I cannot remember where I bought them. It was either NPD or Virginia Mustangs.......sorry JAG
  9. Dad, sorry for the really late reply. I use the Jaeger Brothers mud flaps. I love them. I get to the show, the flaps are off in literally 30 seconds. I put them back on when I leave and that takes 1 minute tops. I would not use anything else. There are no holes to drill or clips to lose. JAG
  10. Just to add my 2 cents....back in he 70's the replacement switches did slide in easily. You did not need to lube them up. I replaced mine then and it was easy. Maybe Daniel Carpenter has made the insert correctly. JAG
  11. With the front wheels on the ground, you run the risk of hurting your slave cylinder. I say that because I ruined one on a 66 Fairlane GTA. I did tow it from San Diego to Iowa ..... more than 45 miles though. I had the drive shaft off and all four wheels were on the ground. JAG
  12. 69 Mustang.... sorry I was not able to get back to you sooner. I do not have any pictures of the repair I described since the car was totaled many years ago. This repair was done by a very respected frame man. It also looked very good from the outside. To make the inside breaks look good you will need to pull the engine. JAG
  13. You asked if this could be fixed without pulling the engine. The answer is yes. 30 yr ago this happened to my car. The shock towers started to rust through at the bottom and then the tops started to pull loose and move in. I took it to a frame shop. He pulled the tops back in and welded them. With the front wheel off he cut some thick steel to fit in the pocket below the shock to above the break in the shock tower. The entire outside edge of this piece was then welded to the frame and shock tower. After the repair the towers never moved at all. Hope you can understand my description. JAG
  14. I have a fiber glass base under an original upper ram air unit. It has been three years and it looks like the day it was installed. It was what I had to do since I could not find an original base for a Windsor. Jag
  15. I have the fiberglass base from Australia. I have had it for three years and have no problems. It looks great and it does not "melt" . I do wonder about your restorer though. JAG
  16. I remember the cars when they were new. I never saw high mounting in the midwest. It was always low as your picture shows it. I believe low is the correct placement. JAG
  17. I have the same setup. I took the manifold off last spring. I cannot remember exactly what I did. I do remember having to remove something else. It was might have been the Zbar.....sorry not much help. I just wanted you to know it is possible. I think I took it out of the bottom though. I went through the same pains you are. Just keep at it.
  18. Mike I had just about the same problem when I got my 70 Mach. Turn signals worked until I put the lights....then they would not work. The problem was the flasher. Get a new flasher and see if that fixes the problem. JAG
  19. What do you mean by damaged? If the copper conductors on the PCB are cut or broke you can bridge those gaps with solder (small cuts or breaks or 22 ga wire for larger breaks) JAG
  20. Vibration at 70 usually indicates wheel balance. JAG
  21. The decal should be orange....never pink. JAG
  22. Sorry for taking so long in getting back. I will take your advice and check the free play. The problem is it will be a couple of weeks since work will be getting in the way of fun! I will let all know what I find or don't find. JAG
  23. I bought my repo hood from NPD. When it came, on the box it said it was from CJ pony parts. The hood looked identical to my stock hood except where the front hood bumpers hit the hood. There is a hole in each depression. I cut the shaker & mounting holes and the holes for the hood locks. I am happy with how this came out. Here is a pic of the hood and the car. JAG
  24. This is a stock 70 Mach. The clutch is a stock Ford heavy duty four finger . The install should be right on since we put the present thowout bearing on at a friend who has a lift. He is also a certified Ford mechanic from the 60s & 70s. This has got him stumped also. He says he has never seen this before in his 40s experience. Bruce, I do not follow the clutch cover comment however. Can you elaborate a little more on that? JAG
  25. What is the concensus on the best quality throwout bearing for a 4 speed top loader? I replaced it last year and I think it is going again with less than 1000 miles on it. The reason I think it is going is when I push in the clutch, sometimes I will get a sound that sounds like the clutch is not fully disengaging. If I let out the clutch and then push back in it usually quits if it does not, a second push of the clutch will make it quit. This problem comes and goes. It will even start after the clutch is fully depressed. Any ideas....is it the throwout bearing AGAIN? JAG
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