Cruzzar

If the rest of your suspension is in good shape you might be able to remove some of the play in the box. Jack up the front end so the tires are off the ground. On your steering box you will find a threaded shaft with a nut locking it in position. Loosen the nut and you will be able to turn the threaded shaft and by doing so you will either tighten up the distance between the gears inside the box or loosen them some more. Do your adjustment and then turn the wheels lock to lock to see if your are making any improvement. Your box's gears are worn more in the center of the gears than at the extremes because that is where most of your driving is done. You may or may not be able to make any improvement by trying this adjustment. Adjust it a little and then turn lock to lock. You may be able to tighten up the box in the middle where the gears are worn more but have the gears get too tight at the extremes and have the box lock up. This is why you need to turn the wheels lock to lock after each adjustment to see how tight you are getting the gears. Once adjusted be sure to tighten the lock nut around the adjusting shaft when done. I hope this helps.

I took fine wet and dry sandpaper and sanded off the clear anodizing coating which left a pure aluminum finish. This aluminum is an almost deadsoft  aluminum and can be polished up easily by hand. I clearcoated mine after polishing it (use a good degreaser/wax remover before clearcoating it to remove any wax residue from the polish. I drove the car to shows for about 5 years with no degradation . 

Try to mount it in a rubber isolated mount. I did this and you could still hear it at idle and I had a relative loud exhaust system.  If you mount it directly to the metal body you will probably not be happy.  Just my $.o2 worth.

Any chance that you are going to put subframe connectors on your car. Before I installed mine I routed my battery cable down thru the bottom of the trunk area right into the middle of the subframe connector and thru the middle of the connector up into the front sub frame and than it exited close to where the starter  terminal was located. This took a little planning and I did weld in  3/4" emt to form a continuous tube from trunk to where it exited the front sub frame close to the starter. Probably a lot more work that routing the cable internally but it really is a clean, simple path for your cables.

A little bit off topic but the hood latch mechanism from an early '70 Ford pickup is an almost exact copy of the '69/70 Mustang  except that it has a cable release instead of the under the front of the hood manual latch.  It is an exact bolt in to the Mustang's, the only difference is the safety release lever is a little different as I recall. Just pull the truck's latch and remote cable, bolt in the latch and route the cable thru the firewall and mount under the dash next to the parking brake and you have a secure hood. A coil/fuel pump disconnect is a good (and easy) safety backup. I had a coil disconnect switch under my dash of my car but I did something a little different. I purchased a flashing 12v red led light (like they use on alarm systems) and mounted it into my dash. I purchased a Dual Mode Dual Throw (DMDT) switch which allowed me to either switch on the coil when I drove the car and when I wanted to secure it I would toggle the switch which would kill the coil and at the same time turn on the flashing led. I did not have an alarm on the car but the flashing red light would be a deterrent to a possible theft.

A little bit off topic but the hood latch mechanism from an early '70 Ford pickup is an almost exact copy of the '69/70 Mustang  except that it has a cable release instead of the under the front of the hood manual latch.  It is an exact bolt in to the Mustang's, the only difference is the safety release lever is a little different as I recall. Just pull the truck's latch and remote cable, bolt in the latch and route the cable thru the firewall and mount under the dash next to the parking brake and you have a secure hood. A coil/fuel pump disconnect is a good (and easy) safety backup. I had a coil disconnect switch under my dash of my car but I did something a little different. I purchased a flashing 12v red led light (like they use on alarm systems) and mounted it into my dash. I purchased a Dual Mode Dual Throw (DMDT) switch which allowed me to either switch on the coil when I drove the car and when I wanted to secure it I would toggle the switch which would kill the coil and at the same time turn on the flashing led. I did not have an alarm on the car but the flashing red light would be a deterrent to a possible theft.

A little bit off topic but the hood latch mechanism from an early '70 Ford pickup is an almost exact copy of the '69/70 Mustang  except that it has a cable release instead of the under the front of the hood manual latch.  It is an exact bolt in to the Mustang's, the only difference is the safety release lever is a little different as I recall. Just pull the truck's latch and remote cable, bolt in the latch and route the cable thru the firewall and mount under the dash next to the parking brake and you have a secure hood. A coil/fuel pump disconnect is a good (and easy) safety backup. I had a coil disconnect switch under my dash of my car but I did something a little different. I purchased a flashing 12v red led light (like they use on alarm systems) and mounted it into my dash. I purchased a Dual Mode Dual Throw (DMDT) switch which allowed me to either switch on the coil when I drove the car and when I wanted to secure it I would toggle the switch which would kill the coil and at the same time turn on the flashing led. I did not have an alarm on the car but the flashing red light would be a deterrent to a possible theft.

A little bit off topic but the hood latch mechanism from an early '70 Ford pickup is an almost exact copy of the '69/70 Mustang  except that it has a cable release instead of the under the front of the hood manual latch.  It is an exact bolt in to the Mustang's, the only difference is the safety release lever is a little different as I recall. Just pull the truck's latch and remote cable, bolt in the latch and route the cable thru the firewall and mount under the dash next to the parking brake and you have a secure hood. A coil/fuel pump disconnect is a good (and easy) safety backup. I had a coil disconnect switch under my dash of my car but I did something a little different. I purchased a flashing 12v red led light (like they use on alarm systems) and mounted it into my dash. I purchased a Dual Mode Dual Throw (DMDT) switch which allowed me to either switch on the coil when I drove the car and when I wanted to secure it I would toggle the switch which would kill the coil and at the same time turn on the flashing led. I did not have an alarm on the car but the flashing red light would be a deterrent to a possible theft.

Here are some pics of my finished cold/ram air package, export brace cover, fan shroud, grill to radiator block off plate, monte carlo bar, outside electric mirrors, and instrument panel. This has been a 4 1/2 year project. I mounted some new 'shoes' to her last week and she is now out on the range.


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