Cruzzar

I made the upholstery panels for the doors myself. I used 1/8" pvc sheet material and thin, high density foam under both the black and titanium material. I tried to replicate the stock "standard" door panels but I wanted to carry the upholstery all the way down the door to the bottom so as not to see the painted steel area. The speakers are Infinity model 6032S1.

If you are installing electric windows the area that was originally for the window crank can be used to mount a speaker. While the speaker will not be in the stock location by moving it a little higher in the door it will give you a little more room for the magnet. Here's a pic of my door.

Angel, Thanks for the complement. gsxrken, The guages are Autometer guages, 2 5/8" and 5". The panel insert is made to attach to the stock plastic guage panel that I cut apart. The guages are set back into the insert a little more than the pic depicts. Here is a link to a former post showing a different angle. The post also has a link to how I built the insert (on the last page). http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=8270&highlight=cruzzar

here's a link to some info that Buening posted a while back. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/605278-1970-door-speakers.html

Yes, view Y. That spring tries to pull the cable back when you depress the parking brake lever with your foot.

Prayers1 I was wrong about the small spring in the mechanism helping to pull the cable back. I see from your picture that the spring I was thinking about only puts pressure on the latching and un-latching mechanism. Sorry, its been too long ago since I put that back in my car, that and a bad case of CRS. The spring that really helps is the spring located under the driver's side. Here is a pic. Sorry, my car is not on the lift and I can't move the camera back any futher to get a better picture but you can see the spring that helps pull the cable back after brake release.

OK Prayers1, this otta do it. There is a small spring that is located between the two pieces of metal that puts tension on the door locking mechanism. If this spring is broken or missing the door lock rod will not stay up. Look at where the pencil is pointing to see the spring. This is a brand new door latch for a 69/70 Mustang from Scott Drake that I did not use. I hope this helps. If you are interested in the door latch send me a pm. Uploaded with ImageShack.us

There is a light weight spring that is incorporated into the foot operated brake mechanism. The spring that really helps the foot pedal on the brake release to fully come back to its full released position is the spring on the brake cable under the driver side. This spring should be put on the threaded portion of the saefty brake cable before it is attached to the cables that got to the back brakes.

The mechanism that holds the door lock knob up is incorporated into the door lock mechanism itself. To remove it, you will have to remove the door panel, handles, arm rest and the three (?) screws that hold it to the door that you can see if you look at the area around the latch. You might be able to repair it once it is out of the door. New latch mechanisms are available from mustang suppliers.

The wire that goes to the compressor will come from the AC switch which is probably located next to the heat/AC switch on the dash (stock) or if an aftermarket AC unit is will be comming off of the temp. switch. This wire is only hot when the unit's temp. switch tell the compressor to engage. The compressor has a magnetically operated clutch on it and the wire that attaches to it energizies it on command from the temp. switch. If the car did not come with AC then you probably will not find the wire that goes to the compressor in the engine compartment.

Go to a Ford dealer and purchase the friction modifier and add to your fluid. Some recommend a 75-90 wt. and others stick by the old straight 90 wt.

My top spring is a factory replacement but the bottom is most probably not. I made my clutch system full roller as you can see. These are standard heim joints but with a grease zerk. Probably overkill but the price difference wasn't that much. Engine pics. [/url Uploaded with ImageShack.us

A picture is worth a thousand words.

From your pictures it appears that you have the clutch rod/z-bar return spring that goes from the firewall to the top of the z-bar. This spring holds the clutch pedal and z-bar assembly away from the throwout bearing. The other spring you are asking about attaches from the fork to the pivot on the lower rod. Look at the bottom of the z-bar arm where it attaches to the rod that goes to the fork assembly and see if it has a hole in it where the spring attaches. Its function it to hold the rod in place so it does not fall out of the end of the fork assembly. It does not attach to the body.

Is your current rod 12.5", if so put a slight bend in the middle just like the pictures in the book and it should be good. It appears that you just need the rod to move over about an inch to connect with the the top of the z-bar and not drag on the edge of the hole in the firewall.

My '70 has a bend in it. I would suspect the '69 should also.

I would say it could take a little tweeking but I'm not sure I would do it while installed in the car. Take it out, put it in a vise and message it appropriately. You shold be able to reinstall it and take up the slop with the z-bar frame mount pivot which is slotted. Good luck.

There should not be any holes in the panel that would let water and muck in. A pic would be insightful.

FYI, for you guys that are getting tight clearances when using the 3" tall filter you can always go to a little shorter air filter. K&N for example has several slightly shorter 14"dia. filters available. For example, in a 14'dia. you can get these different height air filters. 3.000 2.813 2.500 2.313

Could they be the support for the delux door arm rest (between door and door panel). Just a guess. I don't recognize them. I have a '70 with standard interior which doesn't use anything like this.

Could they be the support for the delux door arm rest (between door and door panel). Just a guess. I don't recognize them. I have a '70 with standard interior which doesn't use anything like this.

The resistors are attached to a phenolic base which is screwed onto the side of the air duct between the fan and the center duct distribution area down by your feet. Look under the dash on the passanger side and look for where some (3 or 4, I can't remember) wires attach to some terminals that are flush with the surface of the blower duct. There will be two screws holding this terminal block on, undue them and you will find the resistors on the back side. The resistors ( wound pieces of wire) are mounted so that they receive air flow over them so they don't get too hot and burn up. You can pull them out and check them but I am not sure by your description of your trouble shooting that you have confirmed that the switch is good. Good luck.

The resistors are attached to a phenolic base which is screwed onto the side of the air duct between the fan and the center duct distribution area down by your feet. Look under the dash on the passanger side and look for where some (3 or 4, I can't remember) wires attach to some terminals that are flush with the surface of the blower duct. There will be two screws holding this terminal block on, undue them and you will find the resistors on the back side. The resistors ( wound pieces of wire) are mounted so that they receive air flow over them so they don't get too hot and burn up. You can pull them out and check them but I am not sure by your description of your trouble shooting that you have confirmed that the switch is good. Good luck.

Get a volt meter and hook it to the high speed terminal and a ground and turn on the high speed. If no voltage, it is the switch. If it does have voltage, check for continuity between the main ground and the high speed terminal. If no continuity then is probably is a burnt out high speed resistor wire inside the blower housing.

Get a volt meter and hook it to the high speed terminal and a ground and turn on the high speed. If no voltage, it is the switch. If it does have voltage, check for continuity between the main ground and the high speed terminal. If no continuity then is probably is a burnt out high speed resistor wire inside the blower housing.