cphsonic

A real classic! ROFL!

A real classic! ROFL!

Very nice work! Keep posting pics plz.

Thx. And how do you think I feel! :scared::tongue_smilie: Rollbar is finished, on to next item on the (loooong) list.

Planning for Deluxe door sides and so far its ok with a bit of dent in the armrest. I'll see what pics I have of that. The cage is custom.

Thx! Driprail are stying, just some "artistic freedom". Font spoiler is also coming out a bit different, the splitter is not shown in the rendering.

Yup works for me!

A bit of safety being added. 8pt roll bar + some swing outs to get in and out. Interesting way of welding. Or did Dustin just fall asleep with the light on?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pCu_XpPl0bA :scared::surrender:

Only Foose car I've seen that I actively disliked. :scared:

69g: they rent cars for the drive so all you'll be seeing are a bunch of Hertz stickers I'm afraid! :huh: Denny: check this thread! http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=3467&highlight=rubber

Cant seem to find a good diagram but its at least explained here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bump_Steer http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/suspension/760-bump-steer-explained.html Basically, if your steering linkages from outer tie rod to outer tie rod do not describe a straight line, a bump in the road that compresses the suspension, will change the toe in/out. So a lowering mostly changes the toe angle.

Here some more progress on the DP and cross over. The 5" goes into 2x3" and just b4 passing thru the K-member into 2½". No less than 8 V-bands to make sure it can come apart again!

Kjell, unless you had the strut rod or UCA off the car your camber/caster should be fine. Your toe-in might have changed due to bump steer though. I have a local vintage Mustang racer here so I have no idea how to do it my self & tools required.

Good fun with the road trip! You'll be meeting 20-30 guys from the Mustang Club of Denmark. I was going to drive the first 2 days too, but the car wont be out of paint it seems.

+1!

Some fresh pics of the cold-side all mocked up. We decided to keep it cool and out in the fresh air. If this was a drag car we'd stay in the engine bay but give it 30 mins on the track and it'll be all heat-soaked under there. Gotta love those Brembos too. :tongue_smilie: The underside is also finished but no pics. A very unique way of cross bracing and providing torsional strength as well as a mounting point for the torque arm! It's a special CPR thing that they dont want published to much.

Nice! Is that SN95 Pacific Green Metallic Pearl?

OK then! The first car I remember was our Renault Dauphine, probably back in 68-69? . Rear engine, air cooled but it had 4 wheel disc brakes. In typical French fashion of the day it rusted away in 4-5 years. :euro:

Hmmm, I'm chanceless in this competition. Trust me, you do NOT want to see pictures of the european family cars I grew up around! :scared: :surrender: I guess I started in radio controlled model race boats (offshore Vees) as a teen, advanced to full scale and then tired of it and got into US cars. I've owned mostly Mustangs with an occasional impulse buy thrown in for cruising.

:biggrin: Yes lots of fresh air without the tunnel! It'll get a lid again soon, the T-56 needs some extra space from stock.

Thx. Logos are a bitch, being creative is HARD! LOL Some more progress made on the IC core, though we're still waiting on the last parts. Dustin @ CPR can really weld :thumbup1: : Also doing work on the torque arm mount. Welded it into the floors for max ground clearance & stiffness. Still need to position the actual mounting bracket:

I picked up the quarter emblems from the laser shop today! I dislike the original Mach I emblems so we tossed ideas around and came up with these. I made a set of 3½" slightly domed aluminum emblems, sanded them for an age with 800 grit, had them anodized and then laser "milled" 0.2mm deep with an industrial laser. Drawing the 2D logo first in Corel Draw and then in 3D (Solidworks) was the worst part and probably took 6 hours... :001_huh: You can convert simpler 2D geometries fairly automatically in Solidworks but this came out as more than 3.500 splines and had to be handled area by area... The emblem will be recessed into the qtr panel.

Hehe, I knew that was coming but was too lazy to find the link last night LOL http://forums.stangnet.com/544275-lowering-rear-car-w-o-blocks-long.html

Sorry, been away skiing for a week. Yeah, TCP reverse eye 5-leaf in kit form: http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/rlss-mu.html + their torque arm http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/torquearm.html all on a FAB9 rear. The ride height mock-up earlier was with lowering blocks but the final result is with the springs repacked (2 up side down).