chillininnh

This might help. http://1970mgr.org/_GaugesQuit.htm

Just sharing...... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1969-1970-JME-Enterprises-Autometer-Phantom-Cluster-/170584044429?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27b799f38d

Thanks for the compliments, it is indeed the Year One bezel. I wanted six gauges and WASN'T paying for the JME, besides I prefer the look of this one. The wheel is actually a Moto-Lita but I'm sure the same dimensions as the Lecarra so it's a bit of a bummer to hear that Maxum.....oh well, it is a tilt column so maybe that will help. I haven't driven the car as of yet so I can't comment on the manual rack. The car had factory power steering and I HATED it. The car will be a weekend cruiser so I'm not concerned about the increased steering effort.

Well I finally got the instrument cluster installed. It feels good to scratch this one off the list. The car project sat idle for a while but I'm finally making headway again. Now to start the Classic Auto Air install so I can button up the dash and install the interior. :thumbup1:

Here's a link to the above mentioned lights, they are for 57-72 Ford pickups and are 5 3/4". They look pretty sweet, may have to add them to my wish list. Seems like they are reasonably priced and they also sell the relay light harness.... http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fb/full.aspx?Page=59

I used the Painless 69/70 harness with great results, I didn't add any extras however. That American Autowire harness is a new product and seems to cover ALL the bases for typical restomod add-ons and is very complete. A no-brainer, it would be my choice.

"The hood/cowl black out is Mercedes flat black, Sherwin Williams Ultra 1, U-12739. It is suppose to be better, won't water spot, you can get wax on it and wipe it off, it won't leave a white film on the black. " http://photos.mustangsbymike.com/Mach-1-Hood

This link is VERY helpful. Be sure to check out the "custom" install, it is slick!! http://www.julianos.com/how2_3pt_mustang.html

Could be a good deal for someone. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-MUSTANG-1969-1970-PRECISION-INSTRUMENT-GROUP_W0QQitemZ230452772988QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item35a80e407c

If your primary concern is a return line, many people buy a new tank with a drain and use the drain for the return. You can also use one of these: http://www.ronmorrisperformance.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=rmp&Product_Code=9112-69&Category_Code=Fuel_Sending_Units

Here you go. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1969-FASTBACK-MUSTANG-REAL-HEAD-TURNER_W0QQitemZ250501120237QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item3a5307c0ed&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245 "Body kits" are for imports.

The roofrail weatherstrip is one piece and starts at the bottom of the qtr. window running all the way to the bottome of the door jamb. It rides in a SS trim which remains in place on the roof rail. This roof rail trim is NOT reproduced so handle it with care, you shouldn't have to remove it in most cases. For starters the qtr window must come out. Access to the qtr. window is behind the fiberglass interior pieces on either side of the rear seat. First remove the rear seat by pushing on it toward the rear, releasing it. Now remove the fiberglass interior piece. The qtr. window hardware is on the back side of the door jam. Remove the hardware on the bottom first. The top rides on a stud bolted to the roof rail, release the bottom and swing it open and it should pop out by pulling it down. There are three studs holding the roofrail weatherstrip on just below the quarter window. Remove the nuts from these studs from underneath (they are just above the side scoop inside the qtr) and the weatherstrip can be removed. Hope this helps, I gotta go to work!!!

Thanks for the kind words. The front suspension is the Ron Morris Street-Force coil over. The underside was painted Eastwood chassis black. This ol girl and I go back 23 years, this is my first car.

They are selling these for $137 plus shipping. What the hell's another hundy, I'm already all in as they say. It's a rather new offering I believe and just wanted some feedback from any one who has installed one. The speaker risers look a littler shallow. During my rebuild I replaced the metal package tray (it was butchered by the po) and refuse to chop it. http://www.mpcustomproducts.com/productspages/packagetrays.html

Has anyone used one of these in their rebuild. Some feedback would be great!

I had the same issue, there are no repops. It took a while but I found a decent one on ebay.

http://nh.craigslist.org/pts/1163998408.html

http://nh.craigslist.org/pts/1163998408.html

Make sure you install the windshield side moldings first.

Ran across this thread in my travels. http://forums.stangnet.com/774869-anyone-know-what-would-needed-use-gm-t56.html

http://mpproductsstore.com/1969-1970-mustang-fastback-package-tray-w-6x9-sp.html

I just received my latest edition of Hemmings Muscle Machines, if you don't get this magazine you outta check it out, it's fantastic. In the new product section they have an advertisement for the 2 piece AR500 magnum 500 knock off. They are available in 15-17 inch diameters and up to 12 inches wide, costing between $325-410 and must be custom ordered. This seems to be quite an increase since the last time they were advertising them (and didn't make any?!), still cheaper than the Wheel Vintique billet version. Now I know Pak had his heart set on a set of these (as did I) and got jerked around pretty badly a while back so take this for what it's worth.

Specs for my build are in my sig, do you think these will work on my project? I gotta rid myself of the Super Comps, they hang too low and don't allow the clearance I need at the bellhousing for my cable. I know about FPA, are there any other suggestions? I'd like to stay with an 1 3/4 primary if possible. Will a shorty (JBA) with 1 5/8 primary cost me too much power? The heads are Dart Pro 1 195's. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1∂=DOU%2DD669Y&N=700+115&autoview=sku