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69Stanger408

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Posts posted by 69Stanger408


  1. Brand new restomod with no wiring. Starting to wire up car with a new Painless Harness. Besides normal electrical needs (dash, lights, radio, etc) here are my requirements which are out of the norm:

    Power Master High Torque Starter w/built in solenoid (would like to use internal solenoid vise external), 1 wire 100 amp alternator (would like to use internal regulator vise external), Trunk mounted battery.

    Best layout / Any suggestions?


  2. 13 hours ago, Vicfreg said:

    69 stanger.....Nice package!   What kind of flexplate and converter does the 4R70 use, and did you need to modify your transmission tunnel?  What kind of cross brace/support does it use?   

    The converter is included in the Performance Automatic crate package. The flex plate is a performance automatic part #732-PA26467 (purchased through Jegs). I fabricated a custom mount and no modification was necessary for the trans tunnel. I did have to fabricate/machine the shifter brackets that attach to the trans as the clearance was too tight for the LOKAR shifter with the neutral safety switch, had to make the pivot point above same. All in all, pretty simple mods, made templates with poster board and traced to steel plate.


  3. I went with the full set up, Sniper EFI, Dual Sync Distributor, and 69 Mustang fuel tank (comes with vent/roll over valve). I ran steel braided 6AN lines to a firewall mounted bulkhead. Then in-line fuel filter and return to/from carb. I have the Edelbrock performer intake, on top of the 408 crate from TriStar Engines. Ignition is controlled from the EFI and spark flows through MSD 8.5 wires via the MSD Master Blaster. The ECU on the EFI controls the 4R70W crate transmission (Blue Chip Package) from Performance Automatic.


  4. I am working a restomod project. New TCI Mustang II front suspension with the supplied SBF engine mounts. I bolted my new 408W stroker to a Performance Automatic 4R70W transmission. I fabricated a trans mount and am about ready to weld it together (have cardboard templates now). My question is this, is the output shaft suppose to be centered in the tunnel or between the frame rails. I have a measurement of 16 1/8" left to right centered, to the outside frame rails. Yet when I look down through the stock shifter location (from inside the car) the trans is heavy to the right (pass side). My first attempt was off by 1.5".  I had to support the trans, loosen the motor mounts, lift the engine slightly to center it, then tightened everything back. Is this correct?


  5. I pulled the trigger and ordered the 4R70W automatic transmission (Blue Chip Package) from Jegs (Performance Automatic). Connects to a 351W w/Dart Pro heads. Car is towerless w/TCI Mustang II front suspension to include power rack & pinion. What header options are out there that will keep the pipes high and tight to prevent ground scrap. Already have an email in with FPA, open to suggestions.


  6. Took it all brake pedal out, here is what I got. As you can see right off the bat, the brake hangs much lower than the clutch. Was on the understanding the pedals are interchangeable (power/nonpower & man/auto). The brake pedal is the original which is for power w/auto trans. Now going to manual brakes with manual trans. Sounds like I need to mount the brake pedal in the upper hole, closet to the firewall? Assume there is a bushing or something for this?

    20170622_195853.jpg

    20170622_195916(1).jpg

    20170622_195941(1).jpg


  7. 16 minutes ago, RogerC said:

    Is your brake pedal in the holes closest to the firewall? That's where power brake pedals mount. Manual or auto trans? Pedal in your first pic is an auto trans power brake pedal.

    My manual trans manual brakes set up. Rusty set up is 70 manual trans power brakes.

    Pedal_Bracket_007.JPG

    Pedal_Bracket_002.JPG

    Converting from an automatic to a manual and power to non-power due to low vacuum (large cam). I got the clutch pedal from Modern Drive Line, came with new bushings and bolt. I know I need to trim the brake pedal but I can't get it to install w/column. It sits on the same bolt as the clutch does correct. The last pic of yours looks like it does not?


  8. What did I do wrong? I cant seem to get the pedal assembly to fit with column or vice versa. Even tried with original column (I have the ididit, both have 2" shaft) no luck. Seems like I have something wrong but the holes to the firewall appear to line up (have the master cylinder connected. Assistance (and pics) would help tremendously, the shop manual doesn't lend much assistance and this crap was taken out 10 years ago.

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