02Lightning

I would be afraid the geometry would be different between the two pedals. I know they are diffrent but I'm not sure how.

I doubt if any of the acc. will work and I think the 410 in just another version of the FE motor. This site is a good ref. for the acc. http://mansfieldmustang.com/EngineMechanicalp1.html

Yea, I pull my valves covers to change my plugs. I also changed the front header bolts with button head type screws. I also thought I read somewhere that they used 390's up till 79 in Uhaul trucks?

I think you can find the block number around where the motor mount is but that won't tell you for sure what size the motor is until you pull the head and scale it. On the other hand big blocks do get alot of attension when you pop the hood.

I would have to agree.

Here's where I would start. http://www.network54.com/Forum/74182/

The ciruit I want to use is not in use, so I think this will work. Thanks!

When I built my car I added some gages and jumped off of the switched radio circuit assuming that a newer radio would draw less current than an old radio. Every now and then it will blow a fuse, so now I want to fix the problem. I was looking at the fuse box and I have an open accessory circuit (20 amp. Seat belt warning, swing tilt column & speed control). My car did not come from the factory with any of these accessories so one fuse holder clip is missing and the other has switched power. How can I jump off of this and run a wire to power my gages? I was thinking an Allen screw head about the same size as a fuse and maybe two jam nuts at the other end with a 20 amp inline fuse, and then run it to my gages. I know a lot of people have had to run into this, any suggestions?

No, 70's are not the same. The 70's have a backing strip that goings on the inside of the hood also.

Are you talking the front nose molding on the hood? I sold a 70 model one for around $200 a few years ago but I wouldn't have dreamed they went up to $800!

No, I didn't know that. I've never had to file a dispute with UPS. What is the reason for the claim denial?

Man....I think the fight is between foothilltom and ups, I can't see that bnickle did anything wrong. That is very nice of him to offer you $150.

The only cars that should have come with the reinforced shock towers are the R, Q, G, & S code cars. The staggared shocks only came on 4-speed R, Q & G code cars but they made all kids of mistakes building them.

The manifolds did not have them. I used a button head screw in that location and put a 3/16 spacer plate between the motor mount and the engine block.

I just started around the rear marker light and went forward.

I used Ford Blue Tempo (plasti-kote) No. 224 on mine.

Ssnake-Oyl did mine also, expensive I thought but they did a nice job.

They are under the fold down back seat pannel, not in the trunk. Just pull the pannel and they are under the rubber plugs.

The tank I had sat for I'll bet 8 years before being used.

Yea, I can't say that something being desolved into the gas would be good either but I know alot of people have there gas take sealed also with this stuff.

That is my guess...

I had the same problem with a tank I had on another car. Gas turned red on the first tank and didn't seam to hurt anything. Fine now.

I think I would pull the steering wheel and inspect the turn signal switch and see if it is burnt or anything.

Heck, I went 10 years and alot more money before driving my car for the first time. Hang in there, your just pissed right now.

Don't use a cordless drill either, it will smoke it.