02Lightning

Where did you get the DI-NOC and what part number was it? Nice job!

I've done it and it's no problem.

Does anyone know why he couldn't use one for a 1970 mustang (you can get them new) and use the brake lines for a 70 also?

Well, my point was just because it happens doesn't mean the motor is tired.

Not entirely true, supercharged motors have a problem with this. They reverses the pressure flow on the PVC system when into boost.

I think I would take a gasket with me to lay on the center section your buying as quick check if I wasn't sure of the difference. Make sure it fits on your housing before you leave. Another way you can make sure it's a posi is in an open rear you can see the spider gears. On a posi it will will have a clutch pack in the center.

Bad lifter maybe?

Oil catch can for what? PCV system?

On an 8" you can get to all the mounting bolts with a socket on the outer edge that bolts to the housing. A 9" the lower left you can't, not sure what you mean about turning the yoke will spin both outer? If you turn the yoke it will spin both axels, if posi it will turn them both in the same direction, if non-posi it will turn the axels in opposite directions.

I did the Rosehill, but can't give any feedback because I haven't drove the car, too nasty out.

hmmmm....that would seem backwards. And that does help thanks.

I would not remove the + on the battery while running. You can damage your alternator.

I broke my FlowKooler and thought I'd go with a "nicer" pump and go with an Edelbock. Installed the Edelbock and the car started running hotter, removed that and went back to the FlowKooker.

Sure, haven't tried to do anything with it yet.

So you are saying the plunger in the switch is what grounds the switch out and turns the light on?

I haven't had any problems with the hurst one, but that stock one looks cheep...

How are your trans and motor mounts? This may cause the vibration.

This looks like the one I got. http://www.jegs.com/i/Hurst/530/248-0003/10002/-1

+1 and I have the trans bolted on also with the rear tires on ramps.

Yes, another way you can tell from the other side is one of the bottom bolts you can't use a socket on it. You have to use a open or box end wrench on it to get the nut off. On an 8" you can use a socket on all of the nuts.

I'm not sure when they stopped production on the 69's, but mine is a dearborn car. Sounds like you did the same as me with the bracket. On the cross bolt I put a spacer between the bracket and the frame.

I’ve got the 6114 - Hooker Headers Super Comp with the drop bracket and I seem to have more than 3/32 clearance. I think it’s the differences in the cars. The problem with the drop bracket is it will eventually rip the weld nuts out of the frame because of the angle change on the power steering causing added force on the bracket. What I did to remedy this is make the L-shaped bracket a U-shaped bracket with a spacer for the bolt that goes through the frame. Been running this for a few years with no problems! Oops.. you said auto didn't you... I have a 4-speed.

Thank you!

Can you guys tell me what the three terminals do? I would like to use one of these for a "kill" switch for my 69.

I've always like the deep looking candy red. I painted mine the color I wanted also, flame red.