02Lightning

Not sure if it's suppose to look like but maybe you could have the original one straightened. I had a nice dent in mine and I had a polisher straighten and polish it and it looks better than new now. Those guys can work magic and the original stuff is always better than the repop stuff.

I was thinking of getting a cup with the flapper door out of a newer car and welding into the filler neck.

I was thinking of getting a cup with the flapper door out of a newer car and welding into the filler neck.

That doesn't work for me.

That doesn't work for me.

Maybe you’ll get lucky and get a lightning motor, they were a marine casting with extra webbing.

Maybe you’ll get lucky and get a lightning motor, they were a marine casting with extra webbing.

If your clutch is like a centerforce diaphragm clutch, you will not have the pressure on the Z-Bar like stock type clutches. You will also have to remove assists spring under the dash or you pedal will not return up at high rpm. My car would stick the clutch to the floor at idle.

If your clutch is like a centerforce diaphragm clutch, you will not have the pressure on the Z-Bar like stock type clutches. You will also have to remove assists spring under the dash or you pedal will not return up at high rpm. My car would stick the clutch to the floor at idle.

My car is not a vert, but the fuel line runs up the rocker on it not in the tunnel?

My car is not a vert, but the fuel line runs up the rocker on it not in the tunnel?

If your not getting any lifter clatter at idle I wouldn't let it scare you. I would hook up a temp. oil pressure gage and see what the numbers really are. The voltage regualtor in the dash will effect all the gages not just one, I don't think the problem is there.

If it was converted from manual to power the wrong pedal could be in the car. The pivot point is diffrent on a power vs. a manul brake car.

So there is no diffrence between the 1/4 window and door window where they seal to each other then?

Do you have a picture you can post so I can see the diffrent 1/4 windows? Because I have 70 bolt in glass and I put the chrome end on it. And I assume I have 69 1/4 windows.

Good idea, a guy on the other forum suggested to pull the mirror apart and skuff the ball up but I'm not sure how to get it apart.

Oh, I’m not complaining, I appreciate the suggestion. I’m thinking rubber cement or loctite.

sport mirror lens, reg passenger, no remote.

I will adjust it and it always works it way out of adjustment. This is a reproduction mirror.

My self, I think it would be a pain with a detroit locker on the street with the rear end jumping around corners. I have a Trac Loc in mine, N case, 31 spline axels and 3:89 gears. I'm happy with it, but in saying that, if I had to do it over, I think I would of went for an auburn because it doesn't wear like trac loc.

I used #6114 - Hooker Headers Super Comp Headers 3/4'' x 33" Primary Tubes 3" Collector and had them coated. The key is to install the headers trans and everything on the block. Put it all in at once on a 45 deg. angle with an engin tilter. Also jack the back end of the car off the ground. I've installed my 428 severial times and this is the easiest way by far. It doesn't look like it will go but it will.

The headers are #6114 - Hooker Headers Super Comp Headers 3/4'' x 33" Primary Tubes 3" Collector. Not sure what size the exhaust ports are on the heads but they are the Edelbrock RPM FE Heads #60069

The 70 tank sticks into the trunk farther. I have one on my car.

The full length headers will replace the cast exhaust manifolds. Think of your motor as an air pump, the object is to get the air into and out of the motor as easily and quickly as possible. By replacing your exhaust manifolds with headers and dual exhaust (or just mufflers as you stated) you would be unrestricting the exhaust air flow thus making more power.

Well for one 69's did not come with Cleveland’s, they came with Winsor’s only. 70's came with either motor. And I think I would do the body my self, just do your homework.