02Lightning

Does yours have a spring at the hinge of the whole gas door?

The way I see it, my car isn’t going to be sitting out in the sun day in day out, so I can’t see it oxidizing the semi gloss black on my hood and I would think the products are better now a days. I just try to keep wax far away from that area or I use painters tape, and tape off the edge on the hood when I wax. Also, on Buckeye Deamon’s comment, it just looked like a question to me?

Man, that is a good looking color!

I did this a couple years ago, I think the one that came with it was cork or something. Is yours an orginal cap or repo?

Agreed

yes

I put some wire in next to the hinge pin for the lever and it's working better now, not great but better. Does the original pop open caps have a spring at the bottom hinge? My original one doesn't and my repo does. I just figured someone took it out but maybe not?

I have a repo flip open gas cap that I bought maybe 12 years ago (this is just like the original with no extra cap) and it doesn't seem to want to stay latched. I messed with it for an hour and a half tonight trying to shim this or that and I'm about to the end of my rope. If I loosen the two screws for the hinge that are close together I can get it to work pretty good. Has anyone ran across this problem? I'm about to just buy a new one and say heck with it, but I'm afraid I will have the same problem with a new one. Should a 69 pop open have a spring at the hinge? My repo does but my original does not, I just figured someone took it off.

I would rather clip a timing light to one of the spark plug leads and point the light into my hand to see if it's getting spark than to hold on to a plug wire like that. Or take an old plug, connect a wire to it, then lay it on top of the valve cover and watch it.

That's what I was thinking... Thanks for the info!

I know on my existing original 69 filler neck it had to be bent a little to work with the 70 gas tank. I may have a venting issue also switching to the 70 filler neck. I read on another post that the face of the filler neck on the 69 has a dimple or dent for a vent on the face where the seal fits for the gas cap, but the 70 vents to a charcoal canister. I’ll have to look at mine to verify if it has a spot for a vent.

I know there must be some difference between the neck lengths because of the different tank sizes. But I guess my real question is will my 69 pop open gas cap fit the 70 filler neck? What I have is a 70 tank in my 69 mustang for the two extra gal. and I want to buy and modify a repo a 70 filler neck to have the smaller hole like the late model cars to keep the gas from getting everywhere when I’m putting gas in my car.

This and all 4V 289's are Hipo's...

I had the same problem with my centerforce clutch with the pedal sticking to the floor. I removed the compression spring under the dash and all is good now.

Got it, Thanks! I used steelerubber this last time because it was suggested as well.

Couldn't find this? I used steelerubber gasket. No replaced panels and the headliner is wraped all the way around. And I think it's between the body and gasket

I did have it installed and this last fix was on them. And it is definitely leaking from the window.

Ok, had my rear glass pulled on my mustang to stop the leaking. I had a new gasket installed (steeley rubber), installed it dry. Then went back over it and put the compound between the body and the glass and then the glass and the rubber. Still leaks, anyone have any ideas? This is all new paint around the window seam so no rust or anything like that. I know it's starting to get cold out and the car hasn't got to really sit out in the hot sun, could that have anything to do with it?

Is the cam degreed in? If not, just because it says 6 deg. doesn’t mean it’s at 6 deg. Is the vacuum line plugged when you checked it? I wouldn’t get hung up on the 6 deg. if it likes more timing give it more timing.

I didn't block anything off and I have no vapor lock issues, and I'm not sure what you mean by heat soak? For the heater hose elbow I used one off an old FE intake and cut the threads off and welded a pipe tap back on. As for the emulation (I think that’s the proper term for it) tube that goes down into the intake, I just welded a washer on the end to limit the flow of water through the heater core. But after researching this (Ross on the FE forum) that tube that goes down into the intake is important, and I’m not so sure that my fix for it was the best idea. What I think needs to be done is to scale how far that tube is from the bottom of the CJ intake and duplicate it for the Blue thunder intake. From what was explained to me is that is there for all the water pressure to pass by the heater core and the tube puts it below high flow area of the water. Hope this helps.

I have the IM-428CJ-4V with a shaker. The scoop sits higher but I think it looks better. Very happy with the intake.

What do you mean by oil pump died, like no oil pressure or low oil pressure? Usually when you have low oil pressure the pump isn't the problem. It's usually a wore out motor.

I would also direct your engine questions to the link below. 400 hp should be an easy mark for a 390. http://www.network54.com/Forum/74182/

I rebuilt mine maybe 10 years ago now, so it can be done. Although I wish I had roller perches on my car now.

2nd that, father cleaned and oiled mine and it works great.