simplyj

Tried searching but couldn't come up with anything. For those who have installed a hydroboost setup, what brake lines did you use? Stock or custom? Thanks! Cheers, Jason

my fiance was out of town this weekend so had some friends come by to wrench. Seam sealed and repainted the engine compartment, sprayed the outside of the inner fenders with bedliner, cleaned up the suspension & started reinstalling it along with the Mustang Steve brackets and 13" cobra brake kit. Also, realized that my passenger door wasn't worth trying to save and picked up a dynacorn replacement. Have a ton of parts coming from John's Mustang, including an entire weatherstripping kit. still have to modify the other lower control arm

thanks. Chopping away at this slowly. Been working on cleaning up the engine bay, modifying the hard coolant lines, seam sealing the front end, and just plain getting organized. Thankfully, he actually did finish a lot of the bigger things that would be much more difficult in a portable garage. Have a number of friends coming by this weekend to try and knock out as much as we can. I did make a run to PA last night to pick up a new reproduction hood, full driver's door, and passenger door skin. Since I have to repaint anyhow, might as well start with a more solid base. The hood I had on there was an old Carlisle find but needs a ton of work. Picked up this hood with just a tiny ding towards the rear. Will be much easier to work with a clean slate. Still the most worried about the wiring... I've done full rewires on a number of motorcycles but this is a whole new ballgame. Thankfully one of my good friends is a electrical diagnostic tech for Jaguar/Land Rover and lives somewhat close by and is willing to help for beer.

finally got the car back from shop purgatory. After months of hounding the guy to finish what he was supposed to do, i finally had enough and drove up there and took the car back. What he was supposed to do: weld in radiator support, battery tray, driver's inner fender install tinman subframe connectors rebuild engine install engine & transmission shorten driveshaft and install rebuild rear with posi install fuel tank & run fuel lines install Accel DFI system re-wire entire car What he actually did: install radiator support, battery tray, driver's inner fender installed tinman subframe connectors rebuild engine: 95 mark viii block with C head conversion utilizing 99 continental adapter plates installed engine & transmission but left me to modify the coolant crossover tube & rear heater hard lines rebuild rear with posi & 3.73 gears placed fuel tank in hole zip tied a few wires absolutely destroyed the paint on the entire car - not a single panel hasn't been scratched to hell. The paint wasn't perfect to start as it was a 30+ year paint job showing some age, but it was serviceable. Oh well, looking like a full paint job is in my future. Just thinking PPG white single stage to keep things simple. Despite being disappointed with the status of the car, I'm excited to have it back and to get to work. The dream of having it ready to drive away in at my wedding (Oct 6th) are crushed, but I fully anticipate being able to get it finished by the spring. The seats and rest of the interior are done and waiting to go in. Gauge cluster done. Engine wiring harness is mostly plug and play, but the full car wiring harness is going to be a royal PITA as well as paint and body. I have plenty of experience painting motorcycles, but we'll see how that translates to car work. Don't have it in the budget for a professional respray. its new home the money shot

There are some very good brushed metal vinyls. 3m and Vvivid

It’s just vinyl at this point. Wanted to get a feel for how it looks before either doing a carbon overlay or making a mold of the dash inlay to make a full carbon “cap”. Have a bunch of 2x2 twill laying around, but been talking with a buddy about experimenting with chopped carbon (a la Lamborghini).

Finally almost done with the gauge cluster. From left to right 1. Garmin speak mini gps 2. Speedo/tach 3. Combo gauge 4. A/F all speedhut gauges (except the garmin of course) and adapters 3D printed. Made the pusher adapters out of 1/4” aluminum roundbar and used a combination of an old soldering iron and small step drill to make holes the oem style replacement lenses.

The gen I’ve is an A/C unit, no? Just looking to replace the heater/defrost rather than go the A/C route.

For engine clearance reasons, I need to install an aftermarket heater/defrost system. It’s a convertible which will see mostly fair weather duty, so I don’t see the need to do an A/C conversion so will be sticking with a simple heater/defrost. Thinking about getting the Vintage Air gen II heater/defrost setup. It’s designed for street rods so it’s compact and supposedly efficient for its size. I’ve read a few articles and posts from rodder forums, but was hoping to get some direct mustang experience/advice. I did a quick search but couldn’t find any posts on the subject. has anyone installed this system or another aftermarket heat/defrost system they’d recommend? Any advice would be appreciated

Came out great! Last few shots look factory. Nice work

Stepped away from the 3D printer for a bit to get my hands dirty and started tearing down the parts motor. Heading up to the shop on Thursday so have to get the heads pulled. Despite being filthy on the outside, things were looking pretty good on the inside. 99 continental engine being cannibalized for the c heads and intake adapter plates.

I'm sorry to hear that Moodster. My condolences. You are correct, asbestos insulation was used extensively as pipe covering, equipment insulation (valves, pumps, turbines, boilers, etc.) as well as asbestos containing gaskets and packing, asbestos insulation on bulkheads, asbestos containing paints and coatings, electrical components, etc etc.

Industry knowledge of the hazards of asbestos dates back to the 1930s. Also, to put it in perspective, the Nazis placed restrictions on asbestos in the 1930s to protect workers (of course conveniently excluding slave labor) while the American shipbuilding and military industrial complex grew extremely rich building the fleet to fight the Nazis out of pretty much steel and asbestos (maritime vessels through the mid 1970s relied heavily on asbestos insulation, gaskets, packing, and phenolic materials - ultimately causing the deaths of tens of thousands of Navy veterans).

The industry defensive argument is that the heat generated from braking causes asbestos to be converted to forsterite, a non-carcinogenic mineral. Most "experts" that have not been paid by the automotive industry don't put quite the same faith in the total conversion, nor do I, but there is some evidence to support it. I generally look at the arguments about asbestos exposure the same way as cigarette smoking; we all know people who smoked like chimneys their entire lives and didn't die from lung cancer and yet we accept that smoking is dangerous. I don't smoke. I also try to avoid inhaling asbestos. Statistically, I will likely die from something else and yet I don't feel like rolling the dice on this one. Speaking of brakes, I'll leave this little nugget right here... 1966 Bendix memo (brake manufacturer).

The price point has come down so much and makes prototyping a cinch. The cost of materials used for the gauge rings was about $1.25. It was also an excuse to teach myself basic CAD, and since I have a buddy with a small home built cnc machine, I can eventually have him mill me parts as well. Much of the cost is in the design and prototyping stages, so if I can do that, the parts are infinitely more affordable. I’d get the adapter rings made in aluminum but I want them to match the rest of the fake chrome on the gauge panel when I restore it.

The black gunk is likely mostly the tar base, still not great to breathe in but not as bad as asbestos. The problem is the minuscule fibers that create the dust we can see in the air (and that we can't see) which get lodged in the lining of the lung and cause problems down the line. That being said, the general rate of cancer is slightly less than 2/100 of persons with regular and proximate exposure to asbestos at levels above background. Not something to lose sleep over.

I don't know offhand how much asbestos content per weight, however, I suspect it's a relatively small amount of chrysotile asbestos (same as is found in brake linings and clutches). However, there is no safe level of asbestos exposure and although encapsulated in tar when applied new, the underbody coating would now have dried and become hard. The best way of removal would be to use a chemical stripper and bag in heavy contractor bags or heat and a putty knife. If you're doing this in your garage or anywhere somewhat enclosed, you DO NOT want to use grinder or wire wheel and create dust which will become airborne. Asbestos can remain airborne in sufficient quantities to be of concern for days or even weeks.

The shop that’s doing the work Justin built a carb’d 5.4 out of a navigator and dyno’d it. Stock rebuild other than the Sullivan intake/carb and headers and it put down slightly over 450hp. I’m looking for a more mild cruiser so will be sticking with the stock mark viii bottom end which will limit the power potential, especially with a manual (6 bolt cast crank can only handle about 400hp with a manual, slightly more with an auto). I’m hoping to be around 325hp with the tune and exhaust and I’ll be a happy camper.

I actually work in asbestos litigation. Been in the field for 11 years now. Never ceases to amaze me what contained asbestos and contamination problems now coming to light with many talc based products. Vic, funny you should bring up jaguar as it was only one of several English brands that used asbestos creatively in the post war era to make up for thin and low quality sheetmetal as production restarted. Asbestos head shielding was also used extensively around exhaust systems and on firewalls. My short list of current products I tell family and friends to stay away from that one might encounter regularly nowadays: - any cosmetic talcum powder, including popular baby powders - mineral based makeups - truck brake linings and pads through 2000 - pre mid 1980’s car brake pads - any drywall installed before 1978 (mostly due to the joint compounds) - vinyl asbestos floor tile

This is a good reminder that asbestos remains deadly and absestos related cancers generally have a latency period of 10-15 years at the minimum, so we can all be lulled into a false sense of safety. Be careful when removing old brake linings, clutches, and gasket material. Also, be aware that some old mufflers contained asbestos as well.

Also had this bad boy delivered. High strung bad ass 1999 Continental engine to pilfer the C heads and IMRC adapters that will allow the use of the first gen mark viii intake manifold, which allows for more clearance and a better TB position for my planned shaker setup. Gotta tear it down and get the parts to the shop. Got the entire engine shipped to my house for less than 1/2 the price of the cheapest set of bare C heads I could find

Refined it a bit and figured out a stable mount for the main gauges. Still requires drilling 4 holes and using m4 screws. Still working on the designs for the smaller gauges, but this is a start.

Got a 3D printer recently and first project was a gauge adapter. The blue is just for prototyping, final is going to be printed in black and finished in the same spray “chrome” as the rest of the gauge cluster trim.

Excited to see the car in the finished paint scheme. I was planning on painting my vert in bmw alpine white, which is very similar. Keep the updates coming

Fwiw mid 80’s Mazda rx7 mirrors are power and look very similar to the stock sport mirrors. Shouldn’t be too hard to find a rhd set.