simplyj

I have another center link on its way so will report back as to whether that solves the alignment problem. Unfortunately, the car is a long way from being road worthy to test out the borgeson box

repop purchased from CJ pony a while back.

you and John from Opentracker had the same recommendation so I pulled the center link and it does appear it is twisted a degree or two. hard to tell, but with the idler arm mount in line with the floor tile, it's pretty obvious that it's twisted a bit counter clockwise.

I checked the box and it says 67-70 m/s v8 1 1/8" pitman arm. The boss 302 center link is just a bit beefier so takes different inner tie rods than 1969. It's the exact same as the 1970 m/s center link so wouldn't affect the pitman arm selection.

What am I doing wrong here, why won't this fit? 69-70 boss 302 manual center link & new 67-70 manual steer pitman arm. Idler arm is a manual steer roller 67-70 unit from opentracker. Borgeson integrated power steering box. [

sorry, should have been a bit clearer. Wasn't happy with the fit of the molded carpet in my f100. The quality of the carpet itself was fine but the fit was terrible.

I'm not a fan of the por15 rust preventative paints or chassis paints, but these detail paints are fantastic. Cast grey is the best out of the three options as the stainless and aluminum versions have a slight sheen (similar to the duplicolor cast paints). The cast iron grey on the other hand has a matte finish that really does look pretty close to raw cast iron.

working on routing the engine wiring harness. Ended up going with a Holley HP system rather than trying to work with the obsolete Accel DFI gen 7 system I purchased years ago. Aside from having to order some of the 2nd gen sensors (oil pressure sensor, air intake sensor), it's plug and play. Most of the wiring will tuck underneath the shaker airbox. Also using a Ron Francis alternator wiring kit. The HP system has an option to retain the waste spark coil system, although still waiting on tech support to get me wiring details.

I'm a big fan of POR15 cast iron grey detail paint. Hard as a rock and withstands most oils, grease, etc. I've used it on everything from the spindles (pictured below) to motorcycle wheels. It's not a catalyzed paint so won't hold up to sustained brake fluid exposure, but works well for most things. https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Detail-Paint

Want some high quality carpet for my convertible and curious if there are any options other than ACC (searched but only came up with older threads). I have ACC carpet in my F100 (mass backed) and was less than impressed with the quality and fit. Not a restoration, so prefer fit and quality over stock appearance. Thanks!

The pedals are modified sn95 since i'm also using a sn95 hydroboost. I have some more pics of what I did, but essentially modified the cage and it's secured through the firewall and also bolted to the inner cowl. Then swapped in the modified 69-70 brake pedal, chopped the quadrant arm and swapped the quadrant into the inner part of the arm, and added a brake return spring perch. On the firewall side, I welded in a perch for the firewall adjuster and am using a maximum motorsports clutch cable (which is 9 or so inches longer than the stock cable).

you and me both forgot about this build for a while. These pedals are just sn95 pedal pads so there are a few options - I ended up going with the cobra snake version as I felt the oem version looked a bit dated. Not my ideal choice, but works well enough given what's under the hood.

tried spacing it out and then the inner structure rubs against the rear door jamb. It appears it was just assembled poorly. I've tried contacting the local dealer I got it from but it is closed due to covid. I just pulled the trigger on a new one from CJ and will try to sell this one cheap for someone who wants the inner structure for repairs.

While I'm waiting on some engine sensors, I decided to move towards the back and hang the doors. Bought a pair of dynacorn repo doors a while back and the driver's side went on pretty easily with decent gaps. Will need some massaging but fit better than I thought repops would. passenger side was a whole other story. Even with the hinges adjusted as far back as possible, there was a gap you could drive a car through. tossed the old rotted door back on to double check if it's the body or the door and, although not perfect, the gap was significantly better. really scratching my head how the repop door could be so far off. Thankfully my passenger side door shell can probably be saved with a door skin and some patches along the bottom, but currently trying to find a rust free original door.

finally got the engine painted and fully installed. New header studs and gaskets. Headers and poly engine mounts installed and everything bolted down. Next up, running the engine bay wiring harness.

have you tested it yet? I'm also considering this for my build.

Tr-3650 from a 2004 Mach 1 - had to move the engine up (1.5") and forward (1") for header clearance as well as clearing the throttle linkage on the rear mounted throttle body. Transmission is sitting slightly higher in the tunnel (but still clears fine) to keep the drivetrain angle acceptable. Car is going to sit pretty low so the added oil pan clearance helps too. Not tracking the car so for a street driven convertible, it should still handle just fine. I'm in Northern NJ in Hasbrouck Heights. Where are you in south jersey?

cold and rainy out there today so starting to plan out my wiring. Going to be using a digital harness with three separate control boxes each connected by power/ground & a 2 conductor shielded can bus cable. As a hobby, i build custom bikes and one of my suppliers came out with these last year and gave me a prototype for the mustang at cost. While the unit itself is water resistant, the connections are made simply by inserting a wire end with crimped on ferrule into the screw block, leaving it susceptible to corrosion. The dashboard box is going to be mounted along with my ECU behind the passenger dashboard, the rear box in the trunk, but trying to figure out a suitable mounting position/enclosure for the front box and Ford EDIS module. I assume somewhere on the passenger side, possibly some sort of enclosure within the passenger inner fender. The general idea is to design for the shortest runs possible of the larger wire bundles. Any thoughts on positioning would be helpful. For reference, each of these boxes is roughly 4"x3"x3"

reviving this ancient thread as Covid-19 restrictions here in the NY/NJ area has finally allowed me time to work on the mustang. The little free time i've had in the last year has been mostly spent doing home renovations, motorcycle track days, and some work on the newest addition to the stable: But anyhow, back to the mustang. Spent the last few weeks working to correct a lot of the crappy work the shop did. Ended up fabricating new engine mounts and transmission crossmember, fitted JBA shorty headers, installed a new intake and did a light port on the throttle body, modified the sn95 pedal cluster to fit using a 1969 brake pedal and clearancing the cowl to allow the quadrant to clear, rebuilt the door hinges, fixed some small rust holes in the inner cowls on both sides, and fabricated an air cleaner to fit a 2004 mach 1 shaker scoop and seal on the 2000 Lincoln continental intake manifold. pedal assembly had to cut the cowl a bit for the quadrant to clear door hinges engine mounts - had to raise the engine a bit and move it slightly forward for the headers to clear and the transmission to clear the tunnel while maintaining proper driveline angle. Transmission mount Had to modify the trans tunnel for the shifter opening (was an auto) so cut it for clearance, notched andboxed in the trans tunnel support, and patched the opening. Shaker assembly - wanted to use a late model shaker but didn't want the entire mess of the stock airbox in the engine bay (also, not daily driving this thing so not worried about monsoons) so fabricated a mid plate to bolt to the 2004 Mach 1 shaker top and sandwich the late model shaker seal. Using a K&N filter that measures about 9.5x11.65" pardon the trashed hood - have a dynacorn flat hood to go on but didn't want to cut the shaker hole until I knew if I could actually pull off this airbox idea so tossed on the junk 70 hood I had laying around with the shaker hole already cut. Have to repaint the engine and some of the engine bay and sort out the hydroboost fitment, but hoping to get started on wiring and plumbing shortly.

test fitting the rear wheels/tires. I plan on rolling the fenders but they clear the fenderwell and leaf spring nicely. centers will be painted a lighter matte color to better approximate vintage torque thrusts.

Best of luck with your recovery. It is extremely important to share stories like yours and have topics like this. Awareness is key. I too have a family history of prostate cancer. My dad was diagnosed at age 44 and had a prostectomy. There wasn't as much public awareness of prostate cancer back in 1997 and thankfully, my dad had a great general practitioner who was pretty aggressive with screening/testing. Thanks to him and the team of doctors, I've had 21 more years (and still counting) with my dad. On a personal level, I've been ever increasingly involved with The Distinguished Gentleman's Ride which is a worldwide motorcycle ride raising millions of dollars each year for mens health initiatives, with the main focus being prostate cancer and mental health. It's a pretty cool event, originating in Australia, aimed at bringing mens health topics out into the open and encouraging men to talk to one another and share their stories.

didn't get a ton of time to work on the mustang last night, but was able to shoot the radiator black and powdercoat the fan brackets. I hate how aluminum radiators look behind a classic grill, so I picked up some of this stuff from Eastwood: Pretty easy to shoot. 3 light coats finished out the can and gave an even finish. doesn't exactly appear stock from under the hood but blends right in from the front

Northern, NJ actually. In Hasbrouck Heights, about 10 miles from NYC.

Awesome, thanks!

powdercoated my diy export brace & getting the front suspension back together.