Caseyrhe

Bought this car last year for 400.00, as a parts car. After getting it home and getting the 4 five gallon buckets worth of old acorns, rat and squirrel crap, and ?? it looked to good to part her out. When I got brave enough to take out the back seat and venture into the trunk, there I found the rest of the interior pieces, exterior trim, light buckets, and another 2 five gallon buckets of nuts and crap. I stripped her down, went thru all the wiring, and got all the electrical working. I replaced the drivers side floor pan and off to paint and body she went. Rust was minimal, with just a few patches in the normal rusted out spots and a new used top of course. She came home today.

Timing is good, wires good, different carb produced same effects. We tried all kinds of things for 3 hours with none making a difference

Thanks I guess one good thing is, the hood is still off and won’t break my back to bad lifting off the intake

Yes, breaking in the cam. Lower end was not touched. Heads rebuilt with new valves and springs-from what I was told and could see, no other info on them. Original rocker arms, stock push rods, non roller cam.

Well, today was the day. Rebuilt the carb, primed it, and good lord willing she fired right up. Idled her up to 2500, temp ran at 185, 70 psi on the oil pressure, all with no leaks. Purred like a kitten, ran smooth, and no misses or back firing When idled her down to 800, started back firing thru the carb. Timing good, points, rotor, cap, and wires all new, but went ahead an replaced again anyway. No vac leaks. Tried adjusting timing +/- and still backfiring. As you increase the rpm's, back firing thru the carb increases. Plan is to pull the valve covers, turn over by hand and make sure all the p rods spin freely when each piston at tdc and rockers are moving. Sounds like a rounded lobe. 390, 40 over, 390GT heads, 780 Holley, New Mellings SYB-22 (428cj specs)cam and lifters Any other suggestions would be greatly IMG_4935.MOV

390, 390GT heads, new Mellings cam SYB-22 and lifters

Well, today was the day. Rebuilt the carb, primed it, and good lord willing she fired right up. Idled her up to 2500, temp ran at 185, 70 psi on the oil pressure, all with no leaks. Purred like a kitten, ran smooth, and no misses or back firing When idled her down to 800, started back firing thru the carb. Timing good, points, rotor, cap, and wires all new, but went ahead an replaced again anyway. No vac leaks. Tried adjusting timing +/- and still backfiring. As you increase the rpm's, back firing thru the carb increases. Plan is to pull the valve covers, turn over by hand and make sure all the p rods spin freely when each piston at tdc and rockers are moving. Sounds like a rounded lobe. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated

Be mindful, if going back all original, which your car appears to be....a drive way find, the 70 hood is different than a 69

Welcome to the forum. Looks like you have a solid car to start with.

Very Nice!!!

so the clips I sent worked?

Just a few more hours of little things and she’ll be ready to fire up after being taken apart 18 years ago.

Good news today, next project, 70 Coupe with Landau top, got painted today. They still need to install top/trim, front/rear glass, and headliner, should be coming home in 2-3 weeks. Looking forward to dropping in the FE and installing the headers, just shoot me now

Drivers side accomplished in 3.5 hours Tuesday night Learned something very important today, for next time. On a FE with headers and manual transmission- Install the Z-bar bracket on the block first. Good lord willing.....miraculously got both bolts started, now to tighten them with a short box end wrench with 2" of movement per repositioning.

I edited and deleted.

Passenger side Header bolted in, mtr mount in. Drivers side looks to be more challenging, pray for me.

4-5 hours later, a lot of cussing, mtr mounts pulled, clutch fork removed, dropped idler arm and presto....headers are in. Now to put all the removed stuff back on and install gaskets and bolts. My brother called earlier and ask why his were burning.

Motor and trans are in. Dang arm wasn’t long enough to get it all the way in, so floor jack under trans, hoist connected to front of motor, and then pushed the car. Would not go in with headers attached, hooker comps

Did a search with no luck, anyone have pics of the factory shifter linkage installed.

It just might become mine?? But if it doesn’t, that’s ok too, I’ve enjoyed putting it together.

Well, I caved.... went and picked up the mtr from my brothers last weekend and started putting it back together. All down hill from here. Figure I’ll go get the bell housing, trans, and rest of the stuff this weekend. Hope to have it in by end of next weekend.

Understand you have a sports roof, but sure looks like the strip the conv top cover slides into atop the rear seat

Keep and eye out for a auction/liquidator company to come in and sale off whats left. I got a bunch of killer deals when Dallas Mustang went under. sold off a bunch of extras in the lots I won and made my money back, selling the parts I didn't need for cheap to help another brother out

Has closed down, effective immediately