Vicfreg

Oh, the black on the console top plate is 3M Satin Black Di-Noc

My console is finally done and ready to install. Took several iterations, but I think it came out good. Modifications: - Turned my rear ashtray into a courtesy light. Modified the stock ash tray housing to install a LED, then sources some clear reverse light plastic material and shaped it to match the ash tray opening. Shot it with some VHT Tint spray to blend in with the black. - Installed my New Relics power window switch in the front of the console box where the cigarette lighter used to be. Sourced some pebble grain ABS plastic, and cut it to match the outline of the console box front where the lighter was. Then cut the hole to mount the power window switches. This took a lot of Dremel grind/cut/file do over... Then glued the new front panel onto the console box. Was a tight fit in the back where the power window switch wiring harness goes, but snuck it in there. - Added the Shelby Gauge Pod where the front ashtray goes . Installed some Autometer ghost silver face gauges with blue LEDs. They measure my oil cooler discharge temperature and my transmission pan temperature. - Sourced some 19mm billet push button switches from an Australian supplier, and they laser engrave the switches. They have blue led Halo lights around the switches. I have 2 for my Dakota/VHX dash, one for my LED headlight halo, one for my engine fan override, one for my trans cooler fan override, and one for my interior lights. I also have a rocker switch for my power door locks. - Added a stainless steel cupholder - Finished the console box interior with subwoofer exterior fabric. - Wiring underneath used the AAW GM style ribbon connectors, and a industrial DIN rail terminal block for the wiring interfaces.

I would buy the best piece available. Cheap body parts quickly become expensive when you add bodywork time to fix them. I used an original lid if you can find one in good shape.

Hey Mike. I think I did, it's been a while since I got it. It is a Ford tooling piece. I have a lot of lessons learned from this adventure. Let me know when you are going to do it and we can talk on the phone. Vic

I finally finished installing the dash pad. A chore for me. I would rather take my engine out.... But, think it looks good, especially with the color matched dash panels. I also finished my console top plate. I put black Di-Noc on it, and it came out pretty well. Next mini-project is to install the rear quarter window power window actuators. That requires a little cutting. Thanks to the Forum members for helping with hints on that.

Hi Ersin, yes, thanks for that, that’s why I went back and looked and realized I had the wrong switch. Lol.

My car was originally a FMX and it was on the shifter, not the trans. My shifter base has a hole in the side for the wiring to pass through. I realize now I have the wrong switch…..

Thanks, I knew you would know that!!

The clear is not actually that expensive to put more coats on. Once they have it loaded in the paint booth, the dry time is short, so they can do several coats pretty quickly. I have 5 coats of clear on my hood, and 3 coats everywhere else. Vic

Is that a Base Coat/Clear Coat?

Yeah, or you can call Tommy Tutone......

It was not clear to me from looking at the wiring diagrams, which wires were for the backup lights, and which are for the Neutral Safety Switch. Also, any tips on installing this switch? It looks like I need to remove my shift handle, which I am not sure I can do from inside the car..... Vic

Hope they bring some Vodka.....

Thanks for the tip on cutting near the sills. I will let it settle. I was wondering if anyone had used a steamer to help mold the carpet. I have never done that, not sure where to get one, but thought it would be interesting to try.

Nothing like red. Looks awesome!

Thanks. The soldering iron sounds like a perfect solution!

Oh, got it. So, did you decide on the one on the left then? What paint manufacturer/color code did you use?

Thanks everyone for the input. I will install the panel and then drill the holes in the door. I have all the other mounting hardware (door cups, etc)

Looking ahead to next month or so, where I will need to install my carpet. So, requesting suggestions/lessons learned/advice on 3 items: 1. Door panels My car did not come from the factory with deluxe door panels. So, there are no holes drilled in the lower part of the door to attach the carpeted area of the door panel to. Looking for a template, pictures, type of fasteners, etc so I can drill some holes and use the proper hardware to attach the panels to the doors. 2. Carpet I have not purchased my carpet yet. I have been told Rock Auto has the best product for the price. Looking for some recommendations there for where to get the carpet from, and which type of carpet backing to use. I am not that concerned about a Concours look, much more concerned with the fit, especially for my Convertible. I will be using Dynamat under the carpet. Any lessons learned with trimming the carpet, installing the carpet, molding/steaming the carpet, would be appreciated. Also techniques for installing the sill plates and kick panels. Thanks!!! Vic

Catching up on the latest mini-project. Got the power door locks and remote trunk release working. Getting close to the finish line with testing out all my "gadgets", preparing to button up the dash. IMG_2256.MOV

Wow, that’s interesting. Maybe they found that these calipers were twisting or something, and they had to add a bracket to Stiffen them up. I’ll have to look in the 1970 shop manual to see if it’s in there also. I had a 1968 factory S code, big block car, it had brake calipers like that, I don’t recall the bracket being on there

Orientation looks right to me. Bleed screw on top is always preferable. Not sure why that bracket is there, looks like a caliper guard of some type.

Hi Ed , the one on the left looks a little darker to me, but maybe it’s just a picture