Mach1 Driver

Sorry no help here- mine hasn't changed since it was built at the factory. Its on the list of things to do.

I think you are saying that the mechanic took out the old ignition/box and put in a MSD box? Ok here's how it works- in a stock system a wire is run from the ignition switch to the coil positive terminal and the other side of the coil goes to the distributor which has points that open and close. The opening and closing of the points makes a magnetic field buildup and collapse in the coil and this is what makes a coil operate. Normally coils work on AC power but this a way to make it work in a DC (battery) system. The higher voltage from the coil's secondary is discharged to the plugs via the rotor. If you didn't have the points it would only generate a field when you turned the key on and off- with nothing in between. The tach was connected to the side of the coil that the points were connected to. It would count when the points opened and closed and figure out the RPM from that. There are 8 lobes on the cam inside the distributor to open the points once for each cylinder. The MSD ignition is a "multiple spark discharge" system. It produces multiple sparks for each power stroke. It still uses a coil but now on each power stroke the coil is fired multiple times. This screws-up the tach because it can't count anymore- it doesn't have a clean tach signal. Often the MSD box will have a tach output that you can connect your tachometer to in order to get a clean signal. I hope all of that is understandable. not my thumbnails

I don't want to get off topic here, but if I may offer a guess here, you also installed a MSD ignition box? I say that because in one of the pictures you seem to have a MSD brand Blaster coil. If you confirm the use of a MSD ignition box then I think I can offer an explanation as to why the tach isn't working.

I found a neat little 40 micron filter to go on the end of the line connected to the TPV vent valve mentioned on page 9, it's from: http://www.iimuch.com/collections/fuel-differential-vents/products/filter-sintered-bronze-orb Bulkhead Fitting, 9/16-18 -6 ORB Female to -6 ORB Female $34.99 for fitting and filter

Heck you're lucky its that close ;)

You can trust what barnett468 and 1969_Mach1 are saying. From previous posts 1969_Mach1 has stated he is a service tech, barnett may also be a service tech because he is very knowledgeable and presents the solution in a easy to follow step by step manner. If you do this stuff as steady work and get trained properly you become competent, and only 25% of any profession is competent at their job. Everything I've read that these guys say is spot on. SA69mach is good too, and has an excellent "bedside manner". My 2 cents worth. PS, I don't think the 5 pages are long winded. You learn more by making mistakes, see the result and then correcting the problem. You probably wouldn't have gotten the link to MSD's timing video otherwise. Go at your own pace and LEARN. You're going great!

Ridge Runner- the pictures of them make it look like the flapper just lays on the back side of the vent. This seems to indicate that it would shut closed if air tried to come out- is this your recollection? I thought air had to exit through these, not go in.

At Eddie MS they go for $110-140 and do not have a rubber flapper to prevent air from going back into the car, as Ridge Runner describes. I've seen the stock parts for $50-100 each on ebay and both don't seem to be available. Ouch!

Ok , so between the trims under the roof rail drivers side .631 couldn't get the door all the way open and the mirror is in the way .236 half way up A pillar .802 middle of top bend at roof .710 1/2 way back .704 at front of rear vent window .662 at end

D'oh, I finally looked at the door seal and figured this out. The door seal is inboard of the vent. Air comes out of this thing and exits from the crack around the door. Jeez I had it bassackwards.

Yep, no doubt about it, you're an engineer! My motto is: "Too much is never enough".

Ok thanks the dang things are $250-400 depending if they are just push button or lockable.

So starting at the front (A pillar) up and toward the back every 1'. You want the distance from the outside of the stainless to where the drip rail begins, weather on the pillar or roof- is that correct? Just trying to visualize this.

Oh so you can do that and not interfere with the mechanism that grabs the ball? I would need to cut off at least 0.368".

MikeStang, I was just wondering if Dynamat in the doors will hold water and promote rust, or is it sealed in some manner?

great stuff, thanks!

For those of you interested in getting rid of the lanyard on the pins that scratches the paint on the hood, one of the options is a Quik Latch. However it isn't a bolt on installation. Their bigger latches are probably the ones you would like to use and they are too deep to just bolt on. They don't readily provide the information you need so I drew-up a picture and asked them for the vitals. It can't be imported here except in an attachment so see below. FYI "Dimension A" on my Mach is smallest on the drivers side and is 1.182". Quik Latch.doc

Hopefully when he gets the timing pointer he will come back so barnett468 and 1969_Mach1 can continue with this thoughtful and measured approach. It makes very good reading and is interesting to see the process from the eyes of a novice and actually get detailed instructions from experts. The problem with connecting to manifold vacuum instead of the proper carb port was very instructive...and insightful. This is great stuff. My first car was a 64 Chevy with a 283 and it always had vacuum at idle to the dizzy. You had to disconnect and plug the line to set timing. I never really noticed my Ford was different.

Can you take a readable picture of the schematic and post it?

Wow it sounds like you've insulated and deadened about everything you can. Please let us know how this goes with the mufflers. I got into a discussion about this about 20 years ago with another engineer who thought some car manufacturers were using the car's sound system to actively cancel unwanted noise. I think he may have been prescient. This is being done today but only at the OEM level as far as I can tell. Go to silentium.com and check out their Quiet Bubble. They use microphones situated around the car and speakers in the headrests to cancel the noise.

Vintage Air instructions say: LOCATE EVAPORATOR DRAIN ON BOTTOM OF EVAPORATOR CASE. LOCATE OEM HOLE IN FLOOR BOARD AND INSTALL 1 1/4 OD X 11/16 ID GROMMET SEE FIGUE 10. INSTALL DRAIN HOSE TO BOTTOM OF EVAPORATOR UNIT AND ROUTE THROUGH FIREWALL. SEE FIGURE 10. instructions pdf: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&sqi=2&ved=0ahUKEwih6IPeqeTKAhWBKiYKHU05BxMQFggcMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.vintageair.com%2F08%2FINSTRUCTIONS%2F69-70%2520mustang%2Fw%2520ac%2520554170%2520REV%2520A%25201%252029%252007.pdf&usg=AFQjCNHNO_3KQbVO5DqOb5G5VnLC-d3m3g&sig2=zfFFRoocxyUWIg2X6eAZFw&bvm=bv.113370389,d.eWE

Jan, I wonder if the "outside recirc door" in the heating system is stuck open? Look at this link: http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/interior-electrical/mump-0409-ac-repair/ Under Vacuum Actuated there is a diagram that shows the door

I too like the car quite and getting it cool is always a problem. How well did you achieve your goal? What else have you tried?

huh, I've never seen it and a search didn't turn anything up- somebody got a picture?

Thanks John those are quick and clean