bryonbush

ive read on here before about guys installing a wideband system. i got mine in the mail today and the instructions say i need a 12v source that will provide 3amp draw. anyone have any suggestions on a source? this is origanily was a non tach car. I also want to put in an aftermarket tach which also requires 12v source. would there be a way to run a heavy line from the solenoid, back down to the fuse box area with a fuse in there to hook up both tach and wideband and have plenty of power?

Well, today i went to the bank and the road was smoother than others. after a slow pull out of the bank, semi straightened the wheels and punched it. Got the tires to kick the car straight. Didnt change anything with the carb so maybe the road conditions were in my favor. It did rev.. hesitate, then took off though. to follow up on the torque converter: i read a post someone made showing a photo from the ford manual showing that the factory stall speed for 4r trans was in the mid to high 2K.

215/55r17 tires, limited slip unit

I put the tire size in but the conversion is a 26" tall by 8.4" wide

RPM: I'll get a video this weekend. I'm lowering the car now so it's on stands.

im not a huge fan of power braking to do a burnout and that's half the reason why i wanted 3.80 gears when i did the swap...rolling burnouts. cam:Camshaft, Hydraulic Roller Tappet, Advertised Duration 270/276, Lift .513/.513, Ford, 351W, Each http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-35-421-8 Tires: 215/55r17 Carb: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-0-80508SA Im curious with the trans/stall. with the AODE i can change the lockup at different points. not sure is this effects first gear or not. In my dad's fox and 95 mustang i would be able to do burnouts (not huge at all) with a stock trans so i would think* that with this motor it wouldnt be an issue. i dont have the compression info available right now. hopefully i can get it this weekend. i know the brakes are not dragging and they both wheels spin as i left two tracks in the dirt road. the motor doesn't seem to bog at all when i punch it and it feels pretty good off the line and through the rpms, but having never tuned in the carb, thats why i decided to get the AFR kit.

Nope 17*8 with street tires.

Gears were 2.78, now 3.80's

i didn't build the motor, just bought the go fast parts. the company has a very good reputation for their work and has been in business for a long time so i think its | safe to say the cam is timed right. yes the intake is the RPM. originally i had 2.79 rear gears so it was built for low-mid power. Im running a Holley 4160 carb. trans is an AODE with standard converter. when i jump the gas there's no hesitation and seems pretty consistent through the gears and speed. downside is i dont have a tac in this car yet so knowing an exact rpms is just a guess at this point. timing is set just below a ping; dont remember the exact numbers off the top of my head. one thing ive always wondered if this would hut my situation: i have very little hood clearance for a filter. i had to go with a 2" filter just to close the hood. maybe im thinking too much into this but im wondering if going with a breathable filter top would help my case. it will be interesting to see what the wideband reads when i get it in this weekend and give me a better idea on where to go from here.

So kinda got embarrassed today. while my car is pretty quick, i went to do a burnout while pulling out of a buddies and noting..just launch with a lot of noise. this is on a new 351w Edelbrock performer rpm heads and intake, comp cam w/270 duration , dougs try-y, holley 750 and 3.80 posi. car runs good put never dyno'd the car or really dialed in the carb. never really have that obnoxious smell of over fueling and the spark plugs appear to be in the norm. with that said i ordered a wide band system to help me dial things in. with that said... this car should be able to turn the tires pretty quick. anyone have any clue on where to start looking? my first thought is to think that im running lean while hammering down.

hey guys, so my vert top motor isnt getting any power. i tried by passing the fusable link and got nothing. im thinking there's a fuse somewhere that must be blown. so is the fuse in the switch or someplace else? is the only way to get to the switch is to remove the dash?

351w and that intake made me run a 2" filter due to height issues

$400 for that? Nope and not really sure how helpful it would be

look into the AODE/4r70w swap. its literally a plug and play operation that you can adjust to shift any way you can think and desire. if you have any questions, soot me an email and there's others here who have done the swap as well.

So just now, i went out there with my multi-meter to check the resistance on the distributor. the only way i could get any reading was to turn the meter down to the 200 setting and then i got a .3 reading. the picture MSD uses on their page for instructions shows their meter at 20K. i couldnt even get a reading at 2K let alone 20K! resistance should be within 500-700 and im not even close.

Wood spacer is good. I'm going to check the dist and see how the ohms check out today. Going to pick up a new Box from a guy tonight so we'll see what happens

distributor is a billet one so no vacuum hook up and the carb spacer is wood. power to the msd box is all correct as well.

im going to link this on going battle that i posted on VMF about this too http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/893138-seriously-dont-know-what-do.html if you dont want to read through that, here's what ive done so far. New fuel lines, filter, carb spacer, new carb, and new coil. the symptoms were happening with my edelbrock carb as well before i went to the new holley. at this point im starting to think that this is now an MSD box issue due to the fact that i have changed everything else. starts fine runs good, then it happens after driving a while. heck just got back from a 12 mile drive and on the way back, it started again. this is a used box i bought from a guy off another forum and im really starting to wonder if this is why it was sold.

so ive been having some issues lately that come along after about 20 min of driving. long story short, i was told to check the timing again. went out there just now with my light and at idle, its at 30 BTDC ?!?!!? so i went back to my old emails with the engine builder and he said that it was set at 6* advance but will need to be dialed in. the local mustang shop who finished the engine swap for me said they set the timing. when i got it back it was pinging under load so i brought it back enough to stop. Seems to drive fine, but after 20 min of driving, the thing starts stalling and losing power. (there is a whole different tread on this on VMF) http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/893138-seriously-dont-know-what-do-2.html with that said, this cant be right. kicker is, it starts right up and drives fine, (for about 20 min before the trouble acts up) so not sure what to think or even do at this point.

so have you had anyone send you pics of a complete mustang hood yet?

going through this right now. 69 mustang with 2.79 open but with an AODE trans. I just ordered this http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-Ford-Trac-Lock-Posi-Gear-Bearing-Kit-Package-3-55-Ratio-8-Inch-NEW-/371341869546?hash=item5675b341ea&vxp=mtr they have other gear ratios as well. local shop can put it together for under $100 bucks which is still cheaper than the other posts

im with the others, i had no clue until you just mentioned how many hoods you have. one thing to consider as well as doing small batch group orders for a particular hood. There are a few companies that make bullet moulds and seems to work well for them. They advertise on a few big sites, see what people want, get some money in advance, and make some hoods!

serious question here: is there any plans to make another styled hood? there really isnt any options for 69's out there and think it would be sweet to have a hood close to the 2014's but with working heat vents

i was thinking fox as well. grew up crawling in and our of the back of one and that little knob for the seat brings back memories, good and bad!

ive been wanting some type of bucket seat for my 69 vert. right now i have the original seats but the ones that go about half way up your back it seems. Im debating on new seats all together or new TMI sets. Problem is, the previous owner had the front and backs custom made and they match. so i would have to change everything or have the front seats look different than the back