Raven R code

Will look into modding coupe retainers too. FYI....just realized the paint must have removed them in 1989 for paint and never got them back. :(

Replacing the seal on my shaker. The new seal seams to have more of a "bottom lip" to it than is necessary and can't seem to get it match the original glue marks along the base. I took the old one off 25 years ago and can only go by the original glue marks as a reference. The seal is a ford tooling item. Just wondering anyone had to alter theirs to get the seal to sit right. It seems the rear of the seal needs to at least be trimmed around the 2 screw mounts.

I will continue my search for weatherstrip retainers with this list ;) Thanks, Dave

It is a tach car.....hope its not bad (I heard that could be the problem). I will check connections at the starter again......and maybe throw in a new coil. thanks and will check back.

I believe the lip of the fiber board gets tucked under a flap from the weather strip.

go here....http://www.datatags.com. He can do reversed stamping or indent stamping. He may say he doesn't make tags for 1969 mustangs anymore but tell him I sent you and tell him to look up my email address (dsfodor@yahoo.com). Dave

100% original R code with 11,000 miles on it. Never been apart except for paint in 1988. Factory equipped with tach (I think it was standard on all stick cars). Is the melted mark have a typical look like mine? Now I'm wondering if this "voltage" issue that is being talked about has anything to do with the car turning over with the key but dies after key is released to the on position. the mystery continues......

Anyone have a lead on the stainless tracks for the roof rail weatherstripping? Mine are missing. thx, Dave

here is the fuel side picture. Like I said.....low miles original car. Not sure if a ground issue may be culprit but have never switched out any dash components yet.

Anyone have this problem..... Car will crank over with the key but as soon as you release the key on startup, the engine dies. I can get it started by jumping it at the starter solenoid and then use the key to shut it off. Not sure if it is a grounding issue. Ignition switch tested good and for the heck of it had it replaced with another known good one but did not fix problem. thx

The gauges do work.....and are original to the car (4 spd car). The fuel gage side has a similar look.

I'm interested in plating.....and not in a hurry. Although I have 2 just sitting.

Did you buy one of those repo clusters that is "ready to add your woodgrain"? If so, how did it go and do you like it? Also, what if anything did you do for the clock pod? BTW....it looks great!. Dave

I guess I figured out how to add pictures!!!

Hi Mike, Both outer pods are melted looking. I would post a picture but can never figure out how to do it. Dave

I have a power disc brake pedal for an automatic car that I would like to possibly trade for one out of a manual transmission (for power disc) car. I know I can cut it down in width but would rather not if I don't have to. Thx, Dave

My cluster is identical to your picture.

That is correct..... They came off of a 69 mach 1 in 1973. Sorry if it was confusing. ;)

Hi Mike, It's a low mile car that is all original....never had any parts swapped in it. It's just heat damage during storage (been stored since 1995). Just looking for either overlays for original look or new gauges. I have a non-tach deluxe cluster set (both sides) could trade for a tach set if anyone is interested. The setup came off a car in 1973.

Does anyone know if they make black (original style) overlays for the dash gages? Over the year mine have become heat stressed and look somewhat melted. This would mainly be for the fuel and temperature gage located in the outside of the cluster(temp on the left and fuel on the right). Thx Dave

Can anyone post a picture of the (shoulder)seatbelts that are mounted on the roof? I have them in a box and would like to know where they get mounted and how they should look. thanks, Dave

I just looked in the ford manual....they use a special tool to remove those pieces. Will use a hair dryer and try the wood block idea.

The channel trim is the vertical chrome trim on the edge that meets the door glass....and it's mate on the door glass is the vertical stainless steel piece (also vertical). thx

Hi, Does anyone know the best way to remove the channel trim on both the door glass and quarter glass? thx!

Call 540-896-9620. The standard panels cost $305 (incl shipping)......add $8 for the special order to go without the window crank holes. They are concours door panels that seem to be made very well. Dave