mikem

Boogerschnot and panteramatt, go to the How To's section for my post.

Boogerschnot and panteramatt, go to the How To's section for my post.

Boogerschnot and panteramatt, go to the How To's section for my post.

I got mine from Kentucky Mustang and they fit great.

I got mine from Kentucky Mustang and they fit great.

I got mine from Kentucky Mustang and they fit great.

I just did the aod swap last week. I presume by "use the old one" you must have gotten it with the aod from another car. I dont have experience with using an old one so i dont know how it attaches to the carb. I too have the 670 street avenger. If you decide to use a Lokar tv cable i can tell you what you need. What year, and model of vehicle did you get your aod from? Is the shift lever pointed up or down? If pointed down, you will need to point it up for a floor shifter. Do you already have it installed? I used a trans from a 89 F 150, 2wd. it was only 1/2 inch longer than my C4. I used parts from P.A.T.C on the net. I bought the shift lever kit, the Lokar tv cable, and the holley linkage adaptor (gives the correct motion of travel for the tv cable). These were all simple to install. I can tell you how i set my tv pressure and some silly things i encountered along the way if you like but you may be past all that already. Let me know if i can help further. Mike

I just did the aod swap last week. I presume by "use the old one" you must have gotten it with the aod from another car. I dont have experience with using an old one so i dont know how it attaches to the carb. I too have the 670 street avenger. If you decide to use a Lokar tv cable i can tell you what you need. What year, and model of vehicle did you get your aod from? Is the shift lever pointed up or down? If pointed down, you will need to point it up for a floor shifter. Do you already have it installed? I used a trans from a 89 F 150, 2wd. it was only 1/2 inch longer than my C4. I used parts from P.A.T.C on the net. I bought the shift lever kit, the Lokar tv cable, and the holley linkage adaptor (gives the correct motion of travel for the tv cable). These were all simple to install. I can tell you how i set my tv pressure and some silly things i encountered along the way if you like but you may be past all that already. Let me know if i can help further. Mike

I just did the aod swap last week. I presume by "use the old one" you must have gotten it with the aod from another car. I dont have experience with using an old one so i dont know how it attaches to the carb. I too have the 670 street avenger. If you decide to use a Lokar tv cable i can tell you what you need. What year, and model of vehicle did you get your aod from? Is the shift lever pointed up or down? If pointed down, you will need to point it up for a floor shifter. Do you already have it installed? I used a trans from a 89 F 150, 2wd. it was only 1/2 inch longer than my C4. I used parts from P.A.T.C on the net. I bought the shift lever kit, the Lokar tv cable, and the holley linkage adaptor (gives the correct motion of travel for the tv cable). These were all simple to install. I can tell you how i set my tv pressure and some silly things i encountered along the way if you like but you may be past all that already. Let me know if i can help further. Mike

You can do a search on the well known problem of 69 glue in glass coming unglued and find some fixes. You basically have to clean out the channel, use some adhesive (various recommendations) and get the angle right while the glue is setting up. It's not so difficult as it is tedious. The most important part is getting the angle right. I got lucky and leaned the glass against a wall on my bench so that the lean was inward, or curve toward the inside of the car. I glued my drivers window last year and then the glass got broken later on. I found another on ebay and guess what, after 6 months, the glass has come unglued so i get to do it again. The most tedious part is after the glass is reinstalled in the channel, lining it up front to back and side to side. Best of luck my friend.

You can do a search on the well known problem of 69 glue in glass coming unglued and find some fixes. You basically have to clean out the channel, use some adhesive (various recommendations) and get the angle right while the glue is setting up. It's not so difficult as it is tedious. The most important part is getting the angle right. I got lucky and leaned the glass against a wall on my bench so that the lean was inward, or curve toward the inside of the car. I glued my drivers window last year and then the glass got broken later on. I found another on ebay and guess what, after 6 months, the glass has come unglued so i get to do it again. The most tedious part is after the glass is reinstalled in the channel, lining it up front to back and side to side. Best of luck my friend.

You can do a search on the well known problem of 69 glue in glass coming unglued and find some fixes. You basically have to clean out the channel, use some adhesive (various recommendations) and get the angle right while the glue is setting up. It's not so difficult as it is tedious. The most important part is getting the angle right. I got lucky and leaned the glass against a wall on my bench so that the lean was inward, or curve toward the inside of the car. I glued my drivers window last year and then the glass got broken later on. I found another on ebay and guess what, after 6 months, the glass has come unglued so i get to do it again. The most tedious part is after the glass is reinstalled in the channel, lining it up front to back and side to side. Best of luck my friend.

Look at the shock towers. Are they cracked? Do they have holes cut in them to access the grease fitting for the upper ball joint? Lift up the carpet and look for rust as previously stated. Rust in the front section of the floorboards could indicate a heater core leak and or cowl panel leak. Heater cores are a bear to replace by the way. The cowl panel hats could also be very costly to fix correctly. Look for rust bubbles around the fender lips and bottoms of the doors. Open the trunk and look at the quarter panels for bondo or signs of a hacked up repair job. Get it on a rack and look at the suspension and frame. A mechanic can be very helpful here. The vin will tell you about the original equipement. Good luck.

Look at the shock towers. Are they cracked? Do they have holes cut in them to access the grease fitting for the upper ball joint? Lift up the carpet and look for rust as previously stated. Rust in the front section of the floorboards could indicate a heater core leak and or cowl panel leak. Heater cores are a bear to replace by the way. The cowl panel hats could also be very costly to fix correctly. Look for rust bubbles around the fender lips and bottoms of the doors. Open the trunk and look at the quarter panels for bondo or signs of a hacked up repair job. Get it on a rack and look at the suspension and frame. A mechanic can be very helpful here. The vin will tell you about the original equipement. Good luck.

Look at the shock towers. Are they cracked? Do they have holes cut in them to access the grease fitting for the upper ball joint? Lift up the carpet and look for rust as previously stated. Rust in the front section of the floorboards could indicate a heater core leak and or cowl panel leak. Heater cores are a bear to replace by the way. The cowl panel hats could also be very costly to fix correctly. Look for rust bubbles around the fender lips and bottoms of the doors. Open the trunk and look at the quarter panels for bondo or signs of a hacked up repair job. Get it on a rack and look at the suspension and frame. A mechanic can be very helpful here. The vin will tell you about the original equipement. Good luck.

Thanks Foothilltom. That's what i needed.

Thanks Foothilltom. That's what i needed.

Thanks Foothilltom. That's what i needed.

Over the past two days I switched out my stock C-4 and replaced it with an AOD from an 89 Ford F-150. The C-4 neutral safety switch harness was cut so that these wires could be connected to the AOD pin. I can identify the two neutral safety switch wires and the two reverse light wires on the pin connector on the AOD but I have no idea which wires i would connect them to on the original C-4 wiring harness. Any help?

An automotive technician recommended that i run a wire from the stator to the hot lead of the automatic choke. It works perfectly. When i had it hooked to a switched hot lead, the choked opened too quickly.

I agree with 31 spline axles behind a 408 stroker, not so sure about a detroit locker for "90%" street driven car. Someone correct me if i'm wrong, but doesnt the locker make all kinds of racket when turning corners? I have a Ford Traction loc behind mine and it is quiet.

i believe Mustang Monthly did an article on cleaning the clocks. WD-40 is fine, but use compressed air (just a few pounds of air pressure) to blow off the excess. After you do that, clean the contact points. The points get some corrosion and is most likely the cause of the clock not resetting when it runs down. Find the article or maybe someone on this site will be able to help with a shortcut.

I agree that you are being taken advantage of with that machine shop. My long block rebuild and assembly with new ss valves, guides, springs and porting along with forged pistons and balancing was $2,300. I will tell you that the heads were the stock ones and the pistons are dished so i only have about 9.1 to 9.3 compression ratio. The Comp Cam used with this combination only netted me 217 hp to the rear wheels and thats with headers, performer intake and 670 holley avenger carb. Very dissappointing. If i had to do it again, I would go with the Ford Racing crate engine you are looking at. 340 flywheel hp is close to 100 more than i'm producing. Now i have to look at a roller cam conversion and a set of AFR 165 aluminum heads to gain that 100 hp at a cost of around $2,000 more dollars and all the tear down. Best of luck with your decision.

Most of the time, you will absolutely ruin the ball stud on the control valve, if not the entire unit. Use a ball joint removal tool. I got mine from Harbor Freight Tools several years ago. It was cheap and still works great. I had to grind down the metal on the bottom so it would slip behind the ball on the contol valve. Good luck.

Hit up PayPal before you put this to bed. Regardless of fault, you both handled this like honorable gentlemen. Kudos.