mikem

I would like to remove the quarter windows from their frames and also remove the latch from the window so that I can tint the glass in a more professional manner. Does anyone have experience, tips or advise on this? Thanks.

I had the same problem. It appeared to me that the new rubber seal i used had a bit of a hump to it so it did not allow the trim to catch the clips. I took a new box cutter blade and trimmed it down, particularly around the corners, and got it low enough for the trim to catch. Cruzzar's method might be better, i dont know. I would try his method on the new seal while it was still off the car if possible.

I had the same problem. It appeared to me that the new rubber seal i used had a bit of a hump to it so it did not allow the trim to catch the clips. I took a new box cutter blade and trimmed it down, particularly around the corners, and got it low enough for the trim to catch. Cruzzar's method might be better, i dont know. I would try his method on the new seal while it was still off the car if possible.

Thank you RacerX. I didn't see that the original dash had been cut or hacked up so i was sure i didnt need a new lower dash. What you say makes sense. It looks like i would need to install the radio in this bracket first and then install the bracket and radio as a unit.? If anyone has a picture of this area with the bracket installed or the radio and bracket installed, i would still love to see it. Thanks for the responses.

Thank you RacerX. I didn't see that the original dash had been cut or hacked up so i was sure i didnt need a new lower dash. What you say makes sense. It looks like i would need to install the radio in this bracket first and then install the bracket and radio as a unit.? If anyone has a picture of this area with the bracket installed or the radio and bracket installed, i would still love to see it. Thanks for the responses.

I'm trying to revive the dash and controls area of my stang. I purchased a new radio bezel and new "made to fit" upgraded radio so i could do away with the previous owners home made radio bezel and din stereo. After removing the old stereo, i see that there is really nothing there to support a stock type radio. I understand that there is supposed to be a bracket in there and saw pictures of it on the net but i didnt see any pictures of where or how it is situated in this hole. Any help out there?

I got one out of an 89 1/2 ton, (302) truck. Got almost a year on it now and it seems bullet proof.

I had this exact same problem months back. Just by chance, while the engine was running, i jiggled the wires behind the ignition switch and the engine faultered. The engine and electronics would begin to shut down with each tug of the wires. I removed the ignition assembly and looked at the ignition electrical harness and saw some burned areas against the plastic backing. Long story short, i found a new harness on ebay, replaced it and absolutely no problems since then. Apparently it was a problem for the 69 year model and Ford started making an improved version for replacement, or so i'm told. Cured my problem.

He out and out lied about the trunk lid. There is no way he "honestly" didn't realize the rust issue. No way. PM him and let him know that based on his description you bought the part. Now that the issue is known to you and him, he needs to do the right thing and give you a full refund. The right thing for him would be to refund your purchase price and to pay the postage back. I suspect this will not happen. You can either post the picture of the part on the forum he advertised on, his description of the part, and just let your subject title be, "Buyer Beware," or just see what you can recoup from him and let it go. You were trusting and you learned a lesson. Trust but verify. Get pictures of all areas. If in doubt, do without.

http://averagejoerestoration.com/how-to/how-to-reset-a-classic-mustang-odometer/

Thanks for the information, Trinitys. If you run across a picture of the installed switch you described, please post it for me. I drive my car almost every day and in the cold months, that back window fogs up something fierce. I hate to drive with the window down until it clears up so i will install one of the defoggers as soon as i can find a deal on one. Thanks again.

Thanks Hans.

Anyone have the rear defroster option or perhaps add one? I would like to add a stock one but would certainly putting one in from another car. Does anyone have a picture of where the stock defroster control switch is mounted? Any ideas, pictures or suggestions would be appreciated. Merry Christmas!

If you have a stock distribution block with proportioning valve, then there is no adjustment. If you have an aftermarket one, then its simply a matter of twisting the knob until you get even braking.

ebay is a good place to look. I saw one on there last week.

I dont believe its the bearing causing the leak. I highly suspect the axle seal. I just went through this a month ago. I changed out my third member and used axle seals i bought at Auto Zone. I changed them twice on the passenger side before going to Car Quest and geting a Federal-Mogul bearing under the Car Quest name. Part # 9569S, for the 8 inch axle housing. It cured the problem for me.

Correct hose. Got mine at Autozone for $31 and change. Perfect fit and function.

I was advised by the brake guy to do that before i brought it in. I left the back end jacked up with one bleeder open. It dripped maybe six times and quit but i left it up there for 24 hours. I took it in for the pressure bleeding. It had good pedal initially but by time i hit a dozen stop signs on the way home, it was almost back to where it was before. I can sit at a stop sign and the pedal is maybe a half inch from hitting the floor unless i press a little harder, then it hits the floor pan. No leaks that i can detect and i hate to just start replacing wheel cylinders and calipers when all that was done 3 years ago. The two front hoses were replaced at that time also. I'll keep playing with it but hopefully someone will have an answer. It seems to me it just has to be air trapped somewhere in the lines. Thanks again for any and all suggestions.

Thanks for the responses. The front calipers are on the correct sides and bleeder valves pointed toward firewall on both sides. No leaks at all. It has to be air trapped somewhere. I gave up and took it to best brake place in my area so i'm just waiting for the verdict.

New master cylinder and new lid and new gasket. Bench bled the mc. Followed proper sequence for bleeding lines. Let the car gravity bleed for 24 hours to the rr brake only. I saw some dribble down the tire and maybe three drops of fluid on the ground. Fluid level in the mc still appears nearly full. I have an appointment at a shop thats been around a long, long time and the guy is a Ford nut so maybe he has seen it all and can fix it.

Anyone know if pressure bleeding would help?

The brake pedal is very hard prior to starting the car. I will check the rod length also. I do not see any leaks. I've noted that now when i pump the brakes with engine off, fluid is being pushed out of the m/c lid and down the sides of the m/c. What the heck?

I had good brakes the last three years after rebuilding or replacing all componets except the power booster and distribution block. I recently noted the pedal going to the floor and checked my m/c. The reservoir that supplies fluid to the rear brakes was empty. I noted leaking at the back of the m/c where it connects to the power booster. I replaced the m/c with another rebuilt one. I also removed the distribution block to clean and recenter the valve. I saw that the flexible line for the back brakes was looking bad so i replaced it too. I bench bled the m/c and then bled the lines in the proper order and manner. I have good fluid blow out of all bleeders. I bled until there was no more bubbles and then went around one more time to be sure. I have good pedal until i start the car, then it goes to the floor. The front calipers were not removed and they are confirmed to be on the correct sides. This is a factory equipped front disc and rear drum car with no pedal changes. The rod sticks out of the booster about 1" and the depth of the plunger on the old m/c cylinder and replacement m/c are the same. From what i read, there must be an internal leak in the m/c or air in the lines. I replaced the m/c with a NEW one just to make sure. Same outcome. I've always been able to do my own work but this one has kicked my fanny over the last two weeks. Before i have it towed to a brake shop, are there any thoughts on what i could have missed?

In Selder's first picture, do you see how the studs are centered in the gauge housing? They are not touching at the top, bottom or sides. If they do touch, they will create a short and the lights and gauges wont work. Pull the cluster back out and make sure they are centered and use the cardboard pieces or make your own. Best of luck.