Mountaineerfan

Hey, everyone! I had my convertible top frame crunched in an accident. Insurance is covering all repairs, but we are having trouble tracking down a replacement top frame. The usual sources have 68s, but no 69s. Anyone have a source? thanks!

Thanks! By the way, my vacuum problem wasn’t a vacuum problem. Pretty sure I had water in the gas! It’s purring after filling up again, using a water treatment, and putting in a new filter.

What is this black canister/valve that is connected to a line going into the firewall as well as to the heater hose that is going into the heater core?

Yes, it’s from the manifold. I’m just curious as to HOW it works, from an academic standpoint. BTW, I’m pulling good vacuum (17-19” at idle), and I can’t replicate what happened yesterday (of course).

So I’m going to be tracking down some vacuum leak today. I know what to check, but I have a question for the knowledgeable folks here that have helped me in the past! When driving yesterday, the engine would sputter and want to die when I stepped on the brakes at a stoplight. I’m going to check the booster and check valve, and I admit I’m not fully versed on how power brake systems work, so what is happening with the power brakes that would cause engine sputtering?

Got the car back from the transmission shop yesterday. Rebuilt C4, after losing all forward gears. Wow, it has more power now than in the previous 8 years I've driven it! My 17 year old griped at me for smoking the tires as I pulled out of his work when I stopped to show him that it was working! :) Installed new front parking brake cable, now does anyone have any idea why the foot pedal doesn't seem to be catching when I push it to the floor?

Anyone know of a junk yard around?

Looks like cast iron.

CRAP! Power top convertible. I was putting the top down yesterday, and there was a weird sound, and the top had trouble dropping the rest of the way. It finally went down. Today I went to raise it, and the passenger side wouldn't raise. I manually raised it, and noticed that the bracket connected to the lift cylinder had broken! Does anyone know if I can just get a new pillar and replace it, or do I need to replace the entire frame (please don't let it be the entire frame).

A black wire leading from the harness into the solenoid. I thought it was a feed from the alternator, so had removed it. Apparently not!

SOLVED! Because I may or may not be ignorant.... There was a wire that was in the harness that I assumed was from the old alternator to the solenoid, so I had disconnected it. I saw it there looking at me as I was swearing at everything else and thought "What the heck. Let's plug it in and see what happens." And the rest is history. Now I am less ignorant.

Thanks, but I don’t have the 3G. I have the Powermaster 100 amp 1-wire.

Thanks! i used a jumper wire from the battery to the ignition post and got the engine to crank, and switched to the other post quickly to keep it running (key is in on position). Lights and everything works. Disconnected jumper and it died. Still won’t start with key. I also noticed that the pulley on the alternator was hot to the touch, but not the rest of the alternator. Belt too tight?

So following several threads on this board, I upgraded my old alternator to a Powermaster one wire setup. I ran a connector from the Alternator to the positive side of the solenoid. I disconnected the voltage regulator plug from the side of the regulator. Went to start and have no power. Battery tests great, but no headlights and the car won’t start. Ideas? I changed the solenoid after experiencing issues just to eliminate that.

Putting a new electric fan in. Current wiring harness is set for a 2speed fan. New fan is single speed. Can I still use the current harness? Just wire the fan to the Fan #1 relay?

So I was able to adjust the frame mount (I loosened the three bolts on the side with the new cylinder, and shook the frame side to side) so that now the top is even left/right with the front windshield when up (not latched). I'm still having trouble getting it to come forward enough. My door glass is aligned, and their is a gap between the quarter and the weatherstripping, and I have to pull down and forward HARD at the Number 2 bow joint just to get the hooks to engage. When I say hard, it's like doing a pull-up, and I'm a big guy... Since working on this last night, I'm going to see if the weatherstripping needs trimmed or adjusted. The body shop installed it back in August, so they nay not have gotten it just right, especially now that the windows are adjusted.

Got my vert back from the shop a couple of months ago. They replaced one of the cylinders, and now the top doesn't seem to want to come forward enough to latch. I had to adjust out the hooks a LONG way to latch it, and it seems crooked now. It appears to me that the side with the new cylinder needs to extend forward just a bit more. Is there an adjustment to the cylinder mount that can be made? I haven't taken the back seat out yet to look. Thanks for this post, OP!

New plugs and wires, and straightened up the cabling a little. Looking better!

Solved the leak issue with the low/reverse servo! I had trapped a random wire in the cover when I tightened it (up top, where I couldn't see), so when I removed the wire and retightened the cover, it held fluid and pressure! Took it for a 5 mile test drive, and love the car again!! IMG_2043.MOV

I have a feeling that's what I'll end up doing, but I really like these red ones.... :)

The title pretty much says it all! I have a 302 with the Autolite distributor. Got some fancy new plug wires to spruce up the engine a bit. I bought them at Summit here in Atlanta. The problem is the plug wires are for a male post-type distributor. I did not realize this until I got home. There is no. way. I am going to drive back through the city to return them! Traffic is a nightmare! So is there a replacement cap I can order with possibly an adapter to convert my female cap to a male cap? I do not have the money to straight out purchase a new distributor. Anyone done this? Thanks!

So I recently pulled my transmission for some work. This is the original C4 that came with the 69 vert. It has been redone within the past 6 years, so there wasn't much I needed to do with it. I changed the servos, installed a shift kit, inspected and reinstalled the tranny. I currently have a major leak around the low/reverse servo cover. It seems to be coming from the top of the cover. I removed the cover yesterday and installed a new seal, reinstalled the cover, and still have a leak (albeit a slightly smaller one!). I've heard that using Loctite 518 around the seal and bolt holes will do wonders to cure this. Have any of you tried this before? I had pulled the tranny because it was having trouble going into reverse, and would not go into 1st gear. The install went well, and I even backed it out of the garage, which is when my son noticed the large amount of fluid coming out from under the car! :) Thanks!

Removed the C4 transmission (it had trouble going into reverse, and would not start in 1st). I had done all of the on-car adjustments I could, and decided to just pull it to see if I needed new bands or anything. So far it looks clean inside, but the fluid smelled burnt and was dark. Bands look good, and I put a B&M kit on the valve body since I had it out. I'm planning on checking the governor, and changing the reverse servo and changing the A servo to an R. I've never done this before, and I wish there was a way to test it on the bench before installing!

Had the day off yesterday, so my son and I spent the day getting the car on the road! This is the vert that we just received back from the paint shop, and so have been putting it back together. Today we installed 4 new KYB Gas-A-Just shocks. Got them from Rock Auto. As we were installing the first front shock, one of the mounting studs on the bottom snapped off!! So we called around to three different shops in our area and found Pep Boys had one in stock. It was more than twice what I paid for one on Rock Auto, but we had to get it. Expensive lesson. We then installed the seats, center console, and steering wheel. We haven't put the interior quarter panels in yet or the door panels, as we are still working on those. Once all of that was finished, we hit the road! Man, did it feel good to drive her again after a year of being painted! The shocks did AMAZING! The car has a lot more pickup (I barked the tires several times, which it was unable to do before!), and is SMOOOOTH! No more holding on for dear life when turning or going over bumps! I'm attaching a few pics my son took. We still have work to do, but yesterday was a great day!

Dash is installed, and started installing sound deadener/insulation. Ran out of adhesive, so the backseat areA will wait until another day.