Kris

I was told by an old ford mechanic that it was the same glue they used on the 69 glue in windows.

Coupe and convertible are the same. You probably got glass from something else.

Like the title state, I am looking for a 302 compressor bracket. I only want the part that actually bolts to the bottom of the compressor not the lateral bracket. Not really looking to break the band as if I had to spend a pretty penny, I will just order a new upgraded one from vintage air.

I agree. It is all so easy to bend anyways it is going to get a little tweaked in shipment no matter what you get. I have the trim from cj's and it fits fine. Yes I had to make some minor adjustments but nothing you wouldn't have to do with any other and it looks just as nice. Plus if you get it when they have one of their sales it will save you some $.

I agree. It is all so easy to bend anyways it is going to get a little tweaked in shipment no matter what you get. I have the trim from cj's and it fits fine. Yes I had to make some minor adjustments but nothing you wouldn't have to do with any other and it looks just as nice. Plus if you get it when they have one of their sales it will save you some $.

If you are not dead set on originals. Check out seatbeltplanet.com. This is the retail site for beams and beams seat belts are what every mustang supply store sells as replacements. They are based out of Oklahoma city also so you are getting american made belts. Their prices are half of any mustang store also. I got mine from there and for 2 front shoulder harnesses and 2 rear lap belts it was like $160 shipped. They are also made custom as to the options you pick and they have a lot of colors to choose from. Their customer service is absolutely fantastic too. I ordered my belts and one of them had a small scratch in it so I called them and they made me another one free and shipped it to me within 2 days and told me to keep the other one as a spare incase I ever needed it. I you call and talk to them they will give you a 10% off discount code if you ask for it. Hope this helps. I felt there was no reason to stick with 40+ year old belts or to pay the high prices people are asking when you can get new high quality safer belts cheaper that are custom made straight from the manufacturer.

If you are not dead set on originals. Check out seatbeltplanet.com. This is the retail site for beams and beams seat belts are what every mustang supply store sells as replacements. They are based out of Oklahoma city also so you are getting american made belts. Their prices are half of any mustang store also. I got mine from there and for 2 front shoulder harnesses and 2 rear lap belts it was like $160 shipped. They are also made custom as to the options you pick and they have a lot of colors to choose from. Their customer service is absolutely fantastic too. I ordered my belts and one of them had a small scratch in it so I called them and they made me another one free and shipped it to me within 2 days and told me to keep the other one as a spare incase I ever needed it. I you call and talk to them they will give you a 10% off discount code if you ask for it. Hope this helps. I felt there was no reason to stick with 40+ year old belts or to pay the high prices people are asking when you can get new high quality safer belts cheaper that are custom made straight from the manufacturer.

I dont think they are that valuable its just people trying to make a fortune off of them. I was going to make an adapter for mine and put extra gauges in it that slot. I have seen it done and it looks nice.

I dont think they are that valuable its just people trying to make a fortune off of them. I was going to make an adapter for mine and put extra gauges in it that slot. I have seen it done and it looks nice.

Good luck with that. I have been looking for one too and everyone that has one thinks they are made of gold and want like $200-$250.

Good luck with that. I have been looking for one too and everyone that has one thinks they are made of gold and want like $200-$250.

Make sure you tack weld all the way around what you are welding before you attemt to weld it solid. If not it will warp. It is best to only weld up to a couple inches at a time or the metal will get to hot and blow a hole. You may not have your gas up high enough either. I run mine at 15-20 but it depends on how good of a welder you are. Some people go up to 30. If your welder is popping like it does with flux your gas is to low. Also when you switch from flux to gas you have to change the polarity of your welder. This is extremely important or it will NEVER work correctly if you dont. It should have a diagram on your welder as to which way it is suppose to be. We have a $3k welder at my work that will do flux or gas and my 110v unit at home would out do it. I got to looking at it and one of the guys that had set it up didnt change the polarity for it to work with gas and it would blow through anything. Hope this helps.

I have a pair of hood locks I am trying to get some info on. I bought some parts today and the guy made me a good deal on them because he just wanted to get rid of the rest of the mustang stuff he had. I know the base plates and retainers are original ford parts because of the part numbers. The actual twist lock I don't think even goes with them. The base plates from what I have seen are a mach 1 style and the twist lock is for a 69-70 shelby. The twist lock does not have a ford number on it just has ACSCO prod burbank cast into the inside. I didn't know if they would have ford part numbers even if they were original since they are for a shelby. I know they are desirable parts even if they are not complete or originals as this style hood lock alone without the base sells for 79.99 new.

I have a full heater box out of a 70 if it would work for anyone. Has box, fan, heater core and wires. I originally bought it for spare parts but an not going to use it. If so shoot me an offer for all or part of it.

great. Thanks for the info. This is my first vert and wanted to be sure before I took it loose. I thought it would be fine, but wanted to verify before I just went and took it off.

I have a 69 vert I am in the process of restoring and have been replacing the floor pans. I am to the point where I am going under the car now to finish and clean the tunnel. My car is extremely solid and has perfect torque boxes and frame rails with basically no rust at all on any of it. My question is, Is it ok for me to remove the center reinforcement plate so I can get better access to clean it and clean under it? I have been hesitant to remove it as I don't want to damage any of the structure of my car as it is so solid and straight. If I remove it, would I need to put anything under the car to help support it or not while I have it off? Thanks for the help

Ok, it is original so I am sure it has them as there is no damage to it. I just figured it would be a good idea to put in new bushings in because it is so old, but it does turn like it is suppose to.

Im not sure what you are talking about because even my new one has a smooth bore where it slides onto the center link shaft and bolts down. The other end has the mounting arm for the frame that has a internal bearing / bushing.

I have those parts too. I have a idler arm that spins but I would put new bushings in it. The new one I have I am keeping to sell with the other stuff as a set. I also have a control valve but it is rebuilt and ready to go. The rag joint is the same for manual and power but I have an extra one of that too.

I have a complete power steering setup I am selling minus the pump. It has all been rebuilt and refinished this weekend. It is all unused and is ready to go. Its all orig bendix parts too. I got a borgeson setup really cheap so am switching to that. I have the hoses, hose bracket with insulator, control valve, slave cylinder, slave cylinder frame bracket, idler arm, pitman arm, and center link. I do have a pump and all the brackets for that too but am going to use it with my new setup. I would sell it though if the price was right. EVERYTHING is orig ford parts with FOMOCO part numbers. Let me know what all you would be interested in and we can work something out. Thanks

Updated sold items and added a few more parts for sale

I have updated my list and removed the parts that have sold and added a lot of new parts I have decided to sell. I have listed everything for an original 67-70 power steering / assist setup. It has all been freshly rebuilt ready to go. I have decided to go with a different setup so I am parting with these.

I have a new rear axle stainless brake line kit for sale. It is for a 9" 28 spline axle for 68-69 mustangs. This is the 2 piece axle set and is classic tubing brand. These are new and have never been used and still have the tags. Asking $40

I saw this one on tulsa craigslist. It doesn't run but I think it has everything else you are looking for. Its not mine but is semi close to Arkansas. http://tulsa.craigslist.org/cto/3642064459.html

I found these on ebay ending soon with no bids, maybe you could get them cheap. They aren't mine, just remember seeing the post where quite a few people were looking for them. http://www.ebay.com/itm/281095768985?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649