Monzy

I'll be re-using my power brake proportioning valve. Didn't know there were different valves because it doesn't care about power or manual brakes? Right...? I've got a Hurst line lock to go in with this also. Its going to be fun getting all this in a tight engine bay.

Stangme428, next time you get the girl out try pumping the brakes a few times at speed and then make a stop... 60mph brake test would be good. 10" is real low for any engine with power booster brakes. You don't have a vacuum booster for the brakes do you? As you say, your brake setup is far from stock so I have no idea how your setup would work. Your using the tilton 3/4 master cylinder also? The stock was 1", maybe this helps vacuum brakes? Either way I'm curious to know if your brakes hold vacuum for multiple stabs of the brake pedal in a short period.

Take lots of pics, I wanna see them! Those fronts are tall and even my 235/60's were close to the front valance. I think its going to look real good. Its hard to get the right muscle car look with these cars I find. Personally think the 70 Parnelli Jones Trans-Am is real sharp in stance!

I've got 10" of vacuum which isn't enough for the power brakes. Ran it all summer this way and its not really the safest because the booster doesn't work well at all and in return the pedal will be soft at first then turn extremely firm before you've even made a complete stop. Only way to keep the booster alive is to down shift or put in neutral and rev the motor while braking which is not ideal because your using the wrong foot to brake with. lol Side stepping the brake and gas is not easy with the factory pedals setup the way they are. Switching to the manual brake 74 Maverick master next spring.

I like the wide front tire look also and choose the 235/60's. Not sure about the 225/70 because its so tall. Would have to see it in real. The black car has a real nice stance but that front end looks to have been lowered a bit to get that nice fit look so don't think its all in the tires because suspension has a lot to do with visual also. Here is a pic of my 235/60s Not really the best picture to show tires but only one I have. 9.25 wide 26.10 Diam 5.55 Sidewall height

That's where I"m at right now with my 295/50's BFG's. The tire compound is so hard that you can spin them forever before they actually wear out. I've got a LOT of burnouts on those tires in the 5+yrs they've been on there and they still spec out at 40% left. BFG T/A's are not the best tire when you've got a 428fe, TKO600 and 4.11 gears. They spin too easily even when you don't want them to. The tread wear is 440 which is hard rubber. BFG T/A's just work visually on our cars.

I personally like the look of Maxum96 but would like to see it at all angles. As you already know, I'm using a 235/60 in the front. Works real well also.

Looks good, keep the tire bulge. Prayer1 you already know I have 295/50's on 10" wide and your 295's on 8" wide rims looks much better then mine. I personally like to bulge look though. Its not to much and within saftey margin. I plan on 275/60s next tire replacement but I already like a taller drag race tire look. 275/60's are about 1.4" taller then 295/50's. The 15x9" with 5" backspacing will work just fine if you don't personally like the tire bulge. I'll take the 15x8" rims from you :)

You've got the same setup as I do. I have all stock metal/suspension thats factory and based on your pictures it looks like you may be a 1/4" to the driver side then I do. They also look like 5.5" backspacing wheels, like mine. Only thing I see is your pictures are taken on more of an angle on the driver side then passenger which could be giving more of an illusion, exaggerating the driver side sticking out? Either way I'd do what the others have said and move the whole rear over. Just curious but how close is the rubber snubber on each side, to touching the side of the tire?

15x10 you want 5.5" BS as I currently have the setup you want. No issues with bump stop or rubbing. I did put these on my dads car and they did hit the bump stop, so every car is a little different.

What the heck is all that knocking and clanging when you turn? Get those rattles outta your car too! LOL Nice ride thanks for bringing me. Still waiting for the GoPro to go on sale.

I had to take a small file and very lightly file the top of the hole as there must have been some metal roll over preventing the threads from coming threw. I did not file anything but the very top of the tapers hole so the taper was untouched. I actually didn't think my file was doing anything because I saw no metal come off but when I put the tie rod back in it went up. I'm still not sure it its up as far as it should be though. My tie rods are from a R&P steeroids kit and thread to the top of the nut. Looks like they could go in the spindle taper more.

I didn't comment back right away but I went out to the garage and had a good look at mine which is the same body colour red as yours and had a hard time visualizing the blackout on just the tail light panel. I think your picture was just on the wrong angle. I'm sure I'll see other pics of your build to compliment the blackout through the quarter caps.

Just put a Steeriods in mine this year and put about 600 miles on it and the new motor. Its a 428 with hookers and can confirm this does not bolt in. I've heard the FPA's with the steeriods R&P work but not the hookers. I had to move the whole rack to the driver side about 3/8" customize the bracket and move the whole rack towards the front of the car about 3/4" Also had to give the headers a few smacks. Fits and drives damn good compaired to factory but still in the middle of being to hard to steer with the power steering disconnected and to easy with it on. I'm not sure if there is some kind of restrictor you could install to limit how much power assist but I'll be looking into it.

Well thats what my car would look like smashed up :( They're almost identical. I have to comment on your blackout panel as I've been toying with the idea of blacking mine out. I think the tail lights get lost in the panel with the black being blended into the quarter caps. Would look better on just the tail light panel, I think.... Good luck on the rebuild, got a nice car to work on.

Sweet, I've enjoyed following your threads sportsroof69, just wondering what rpm your launching at?

My car is not an original FE car either and now that you mention it I did have to use a file. Yes anything on an FE is a major pain. There is no room for anything short of a piece of paper in many spots. I did have the trans out when I put that nut in also. Save it for next time! lol The filing I did was very minimal, just to clean the paint and dirt off the sides to get the nut to drop in.

My engine sits exact opposite of yours. I have no room on the driver side. You can loosen your frame mount bolts "1 long one each side" start the car, put it in reverse and torque the engine a couple times to see if it bumps over. If you want your motor to go the other way which you don't you would put it in drive and torque the motor. You may or may not get any movement but I know on mine there is a tiny amount of movement possible. Done this before to get a header rattle off the floor and worked.

I was able to us a proper crush nut in my frame, not sure what was wrong when you guys tried it? Before I found the crush nut I too had a nut and bolt setup and know exactly what your saying about being a pain!

Nice launch, looks like the rearend it taking one hell of a hit! lol. Your build is very similar to my FE build in relation to cam also. Best I've done is scare the shit outta myself as this is a new motor with only 2 scary passes on 295/50/15 BFG tires at a 13.48 110mph sideways most of the track. Cant wait to put a tire on and use my 100 shot of nitrous. Nice to see a 109 degree cam likes a shot of nitrous. Hopefully my 108 will too with nitrous. I haven't touched the nitrous yet, lol.

Yes that would definitely make things easier to move around to see bump steer.

Well I've been out on the road long enough to have noticed any bump steer and haven't felt any pull of the steering wheel when the suspension is travelling threw corners or bumps and the tie rods from Steeriods already have bump steer adjusters on the rod ends so they can be adjusted to be parallel to the lower control arm. I think I lost some turning radius from left to right though. Either way you wouldn't want to try and pull straight in between two parked cars in a tight lot with little turn radius as you'd be backing up at least once. I think I'll do my final welding on the bracket and keep the rack where it is. I haven't got under there yet to check for square but I will. I have to find a pulley for my power steering pump then I'll be able to see what this rack feels like with power. Manual is really nice while moving. Better then my manual factory rack but the factory was a touch easier to turn when stopped.

Well I'm going to get under there and check to see where square is just to see if the original location was 100% square with the front frame. If its not then I have to move the passenger side forward the 3/8" or whatever it measures. That can be done as moving the passenger side would give a little more room for the hooker headers that miss by a hair. I eye balled the front end today and took it for a couple mile run and seemed nice and tight maybe a little to responsive but I am used to a more slop stock steering. The car did have a slight pull to the left so I can fix that one. I used a level and eyeball and will be looking into doing this alignment at home. As for the bump steer I always thought that was more an issue when lowering the suspension beyond its working limits. I didn't feel any today but only went 2-3 miles

Well I was hoping for something positive as people have been saying these cars were build up to 3/4" out of spec so whats a little here and there going to do when there is more then that in tie rod adjustment. Guess I'll have to eyeball it and get to the alignment shop.

So I have a Steeriods R&P setup in with a 428fe and Hooker supercomp headers. I had to give the headers a decent indent and move the rack over 3/4 - 1" to the driver side and forward 3/8" on the driver side to make this fit around the steering column and factory mechanical clutch linkages. What a job. So the question is will I be able to get correct alignment by doing this?