Flanders

Fantastic. Thanks folks! the threads in my intake manifold are the same as the threads on my original coolant temp sensor (5/8" diameter hole), so not quite sure if that's going to screw right in. I'd have to get an adapter fitting too. At least I know what to search for now, thanks! edit: can these be found at a plumbing store or anything? I'm going to need one that's a bit 'taller' to clear some of the edges on the manifold. Kind of like this: https://www.cjponyparts.com/90-heater-hose-fitting-1968-1970/p/HHF4/

I always called it a grill cover: https://www.stang-aholics.com/i-24189079-1969-70-mustang-aluminum-grille-cover-black.html I figured I'd pick one up too...

There's a 90 degree fitting on top of my original intake manifold that connects to the heater core pipe. Is there a part number for this, or were can I source a new one. Threaded on one end, small lip on the other end. I was going to re-use my original one on the new intake, but it's a bit banged up plus I it's in the stock manifold so tight I'm not sure it's ever coming out.

...ok, then I should have looked harder when I ordered this tank (which says 1969-70 on it). I didn't see any notes on the Aeromotive site about this. Can I drop a 70 filler neck into the back of the 69 without having to replace the chrome filler flap cap that came on my '69?

Is the filler neck different on the back of the 70 compared to the 69? That's all I can think of why this wouldn't fit.

So I got a Aeromotive Stealth fuel tank+pump, which is actually a tank with the "Tanks Inc" stamped on it. https://www.cjponyparts.com/1969-1970-aeromotive-340-stealth-22-gallon-fuel-tank-kit-340-lph/p/FT78/ I figured the 22gal upgrade would be nice. That said, the filler neck on the tank doesn't line up at all with the filler tube on the back of the car. What's the trick here? I thought this was bolt-in. Do I need a new filler tube?

Thanks guys! Appreciate the feedback! I think I'll start off with something like sm00hn has, just to get going. I'd love to rewire it all but that's not in the cards yet!

Seems like an easy question -- but where are you guys getting all your 12V power sources from? I don't want to have everything tied off my battery post, or the starter solenoid post, as may look a bit messy. I'm trying to keep things clean. Not sure if it's "safe" to just tie it to the back of the alternator (instead of solenoid post), so what have you guys done? I'm trying to tidy up the wiring for my MSD box, headlight relays, feul pump power relay and ECU.

I'll add my comments to the pile as well -- I like my sequential rears! Good and bright, and very red: https://www.themustangshop.ca/product/7021308/658203 (from Mustang Project)

Thanks for the pics! I think I'm aiming to have the harness cable come out from the passenger side of the transmission tunnel (close to the firewall). I was going to make a little metal mount for the ECU in my glove box, but after playing around, I found that a few standoffs seem to work really well! Done! I'll post pics once it's all done in the car later. The one mounting hole in the ECU case is lined up with the hole for the glove box latch. The others needed a hole drilled. Easy peasy. I still have access to the hinge screw holes too, so this will fit nicely.

Any opinions between using the throttle cable with the stainless steel outer liner compared to the 'regular' black plastic outer lining? Does one flex more than the other? Or can I bend one more than the other for routing purposes?

If you're serious, you've got a lot more criteria to think about -- did you want a project, stock car, modified car...manual, automatic, engine size.... The one you posted is pretty flashy, but ultimately what do you want and how much can you afford. And once you sort that out, start physically looking at cars and make sure they match your criteria!

I'm in the processing installing a Holley Terminator ECU (which is why I have a few other active threads on various topics here!). I'm curious where others have mounted their ECU, assuming someone else on here has done this! I don't want the passenger to kick it, and I don't want to remove my stock heater box. I'm debating mounting it in my glovebox (somehow) but I still need to route a massive jumble of wires into the engine bay somehow. I'll post my install once I get it all done, but I'm hoping to get some opinions and experience first!

super. Thanks for that! I was a touch nervous, as my old billet one (pertronix) had no side-to-side play.

Brandy new Holly Dual Sync. Is this normal? This is not up-and-down play. There is a bit of play side-to-side which makes it rattle. Hoefully this video works: https://photos.app.goo.gl/r1pVX8vpvewUVqpT7

I agree, I like his filter placement. I'm not going to go banana's with all the fittings and transition from rubber to hard lines though. I was going to go SS braided all the way through. My brain says more fittings == more chances of something going wrong. is it common to wrap the fuel lines with some kind of heat shield? I think mine are going to have to come up and over the headers.

Thanks -- I definitely need a new cable, but I just don't know yet how I'm supposed to route it from the current firewall hole to the back of the new intake. It needs to come up from the back of the intake, closer to the passenger side of it.

I think it's just the picture. The column and box are lined up nicely. I'll double check the exhaust port flange area to make sure it's mating correctly, but I suspect this might be all related to my car's frame needing re-aligning several years ago. And "yes" to power steering -- the drivers side header collector does point right down on the steering ram, so in theory the JBA mid-pipes will get around that. We shall see!

reviving this post...any other suggestions? Seems to be more 'room' under the car on the passenger side (avoids being anywhere near clutch linkage too). I've got an in-tank pump and will be crafting some Earl's speed-flex SS lines for supply and return. The google shows pics of folks mounting it just about everywhere under the car (floor pans, etc) so perhaps I'm over thinking it. Maybe I'll just mount it on the underside of the trunk, almost above the diff. Any good spots to route the lines accross the bottom of the car?

Thanks for feedback. When I first got the car I had to get the frame straightened out so it wouldn't surprise me if things are still a bit "off". I had actually forgotten about this! I've ordered the JBA H pipe so we'll see how that fits. I'm going to order the Ron Morris adjustable motor mounts too, so I can move things over by 1/4". Thanks again!

I've never had to change a throttle cable before. My new intake needs a longer one (attached pic) as it needs to attach to the linkage in the middle of the unit. Is Lokar the place to go for good cables? Advice and tips welcome. Compared to original location, I need to route the cable about 8-9" toward the passenger side...and I have about 3-4 inches of clearance between firewall and intake to do it. Anyone done something similar?

part 2 of this thread: Anyone have experience with the JBA midpipes: http://www.jbaheaders.com/detail_mid_pipesV.asp?id=1653SH

I need some help and advice. I'm putting in a set of JBA shorty headers, 1653S on 351W (4spd). The passenger side has loads of room (as expected) but the drivers side is tight tight tight. To get the header into place, I removed the engine mount bolt on the drivers side and jacked up the engine (with 2x4 under oil pan). When I lower the engine back down into place, the header will touch the steering box. I've attached a picture -- there is 1/16" clearance with about 1/2" to go before the engine mount bolt lines up. I'm scared to lower it anymore for fear of scraping off the ceramic coating. This is too close for my comfort. What's typically done to resolve header clearance issues? Adjustable engine mounts? (any recommendations?) I need to move engine over by maybe 1/4", not sure if that's going to pooch my driveline angle or my z-bar fitment. Also, the outlet of the header is at quite the interesting angle too -- it's going to be quite the custom downpipe to clear the steering. Will rack and pinion make routing easier? (I'm open to suggestions here to start my research on what I'd need...but seems like an expensive solution to header fitment :) ) Help!

You guys with the shortie headers -- how did you install them on the drivers side? Did you need to remove the z-bar and the steering box in order to get it in? I see the original poster put in adjustable engine mounts in -- are these necessary? I've got some JBA shorties, but the drivers side is a tight squeeze! Just not sure how much is usually required to remove before the headers go in.

well, not sure yet :D it should, as I don't understand where else the voltage regulator's field output is supposed to get used. I'll report back once my engine bay is assembled again.