Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Flanders

  1. yeah, the plot thickens -- when I disconnect the plug on the back of the alternator and measure the voltage at the green/red prong, I get 11.9V (battery is 12.4). So this should be enough field voltage to get the alternator working. If I was to wager a guess, my alternator is pooched somehow.
  2. I just unplugged the connector at the voltage regulator, and started up the car. When measuring the voltage at the connector (not at the regulator): Battery+ post: 12.31V F: 0.02V (not quite zero) S: 12.11V A: 12.25V When car is off, and the key is in the accessory position (note I had the charger on the battery for 20 minutes, so it brought the voltage up a touch): Battery+ post: 13.11V F: 0 S: 12.9V A: 13.11V I'm only seeing 8.6V on the Field output of regulator, but I should be seeing 0.5V-1V less than battery+ post (12V+). PA has given me a few more measurements/suggestions. The voltage on the S + A of the voltage regulator plug seem to be ok.
  3. Thanks a lot for the info -- I appreciate the detail! I will go through my wiring again, but some voltage measurements: The F on the voltage regulator, connected to the alternator green/red wire is at 8.6V when the car is running. The S on the voltage regulator is a solid 12.5V (fyi, no pink wire, long ago removed) the output of the Alternator (if I measure the voltage at the battery posts) is around 12.4-12.8V. Seems to move around a bit, but it's not enough to charge my battery. I have no electric fans, or A/C, or stereo. Is the Field voltage from the voltage regulator high enough? It seems like 8.6V is a bit low. I'll check my wiring again, but PA performance has agreed that 8.6V isn't enough to turn on the alternator. I must say, I'm impressed with PA Performance's support line so far...very responsive! edit: quick update: I did not connect 38BK to b+ (your step 13, above), as per your note #1. I've got a fuseable link for note #2 coming, but I didn't think this would effect anything, would it? (electrically, is it needed with the big 4GA wire connecting starter solenoid post to B+ on alternator?)
  4. I've got more digging to do. Got this from PA Performance (nice quick support!). My car never had the 3-pin connector to the alternator, so something else may be at play here. I need to see what voltage I've got out of the F pin of their voltage regulator, but I believe the instructions below match your pg1 diagram (step 12 is the orange wire). 462802C Kit - Express Instructions This instruction sheet is a supplement to the main installation instructions provided in the kit, and not meant to replace or contradict the more detailed steps. Some more experienced installers prefer a simple guide. Disconnect Negative battery cable on car battery and move to the side. Mark wires on existing alternator as ST, FLD, B+ and Ground (if there is a ground) Disconnect fender mounted external regulator plug Remove fender mounted external regulator box Install new PA Performance fender mounted external regulator box Reconnect plug Replace alternator per alternator instructions Connect the 3-Pin alternator plug provided in the kit to alternator Connect Yellow wire to B+ Post Connect White/Black wire to Stator tap on alternator. Tape the original ST wire as it is not used but may have power Connect FLD wire to new Green/Red wire in kit Connect B+ wire to alternator Connect Ground (if there is one) Connect Negative battery terminal to battery. You will have power at the green/red wire with the ignition key in the run position, no power on this wire with the ignition key off
  5. Reviving this, now that I've been able to start my car! My PA Performance alternator doesn't seem to be charging the battery. I've connected it as per your pg1 instructions, however I'm wondering about the F from the PA Performance regulator that goes to the orange wire, then goes to the red/green wire on the Alternator. If the PA Performance alternator is internally regulated (which I believe they are, according to their website), then what is the "F" output of the regulator doing in your diagram (pg1)? It's ultimately going to the green/red of the alternator but I'm not sure what the voltage is on it. The PA Performance instructions say to wire the green/red wire on their alternator to a 12V ignition voltage (ie. like the green/red wire that goes to the S pin of the original alternator) so I believe that's why my alternator currently isn't charging the battery. Thoughts? If their regulator is a dummy one, then the F output isn't doing much (I've pinged them to get more information, but figured you've already been talking to them)
  6. ended up with the black stainless steel Lokar cable for the Borla 8-stack injection system. Basically identical throttle parts as Inglese. I'm not convinced yet that the S-bend in my cable is going to give me perfectly smooth operation once I'm driving, but for now it works. The clip for the gas pedal worked after about 20 seconds with the dremel -- didn't need to take much off to make it fit. A few pics for reference.
  7. I'll post more details once I get a chance to sit down and sort though things, however it's ALIVE after the first turn of the key. Inglese intake, Holley Terminator X ECU. I had to re-do the IAC wiring (the idle is a bit high in my first start-up video here) so my idle rpm and idle a/f are bang on. It's coil- for spark, so dual-sync distributor is next... hopefully link works: https://photos.app.goo.gl/pjxve7SniZCodY1X9
  8. Just to wrap up this thread -- I bent the flange at the top of my '70 filler neck, just a little bit, with the help of my vise and got things to line up quite nicely. Any funky-ness in the flange (it's admittedly not 100% flat now) didn't cause any other issues. It still bolted tightly against the gasket, and the gas cap covers it up anyway. So, for anyone putting this tank in your '69 mustang, make sure to get a '70 filler neck.
  9. ooo I like that AN fitting. that's a good idea. I ordered a few brass fittings from amazon (exactly what 1969FstBack posted) but may not be pleased with how they look. Thanks!
  10. I thought I'd wrap up this thread -- I put in the Ron Morris adjustable mounts, loosened off all the transmission crossmember bolts, and managed to pry my engine over about 3/16"-1/4". Previously, the header was touching the steering box. Now, I've a gap! Success! The attached picture of the mount is the drivers side before I "moved" the engine over towards passenger side. I've got the JBA mid-pipes, so I'll put those in soon. They look pretty good, just need to see how much clearance I've got over a rubber boot on my steering ram (it will clear it, but I don't want boot near the pipe!). Gotta check my z-bar too, might need to order the JBA one as well.
  11. https://jiminglese.com/ 8-stack EFI for 351W
  12. lol dagnabbit, this one isn't going to work (can't even thread it in, won't rotate around the throttle body!). I'm piecing together a few brass pieces now, hopefully doesn't look too bad. I might end up just plugging this thing and bypassing the heater. Just need something reliable to plug the water pump outlet -- I see on here that the rubber plugs aren't a reliable solution. Not sure if I want more make-busy-work of putting in the marine water pump that has no heater outlet yet...
  13. thanks RPM-- this would be permanent. And I agree, I think at the transmission it would only be 1/8". Just gotta get out in my garage again and play around!
  14. sm00n: I'd appreciate the pic for comparison! I'm not sure how easy it would be to bend the flange. Not sure I'd trust my bending skills to keep it flat, although at this point I have nothing to lose I suppose. And yes, I've called the manufacturer. Guess how much that helped :(
  15. lol, can't seem to win here. A '70 tank neck arrived in the mail today. I've attached a pic of the '69 and '70 necks. While the '70 neck is "closer", I don't think it's going to work either. Suggestions on options?
  16. I need to move things over by 1/4" so I'm not too concerned about the u-joint operating angle (plus, honestly the car doesn't get driven hard or much). thanks for the tips, I'll see if I can loosen everything up and see if it will move a bit.
  17. So I've just put in a lovely set of Ron Morris adjustable engine mounts so that I can give myself a bit more clearance for my header install. However, physics tells me that the transmission also needs to move with the engine, so I need to move the transmission mounts over just a touch as well. I haven't gone out and checked, but is there much play in the stock transmission crossmember for this? Or am I going to have to bore out the holes a bit? 351W with 4-spd toploader if it makes a difference.
  18. Fantastic. Thanks folks! the threads in my intake manifold are the same as the threads on my original coolant temp sensor (5/8" diameter hole), so not quite sure if that's going to screw right in. I'd have to get an adapter fitting too. At least I know what to search for now, thanks! edit: can these be found at a plumbing store or anything? I'm going to need one that's a bit 'taller' to clear some of the edges on the manifold. Kind of like this: https://www.cjponyparts.com/90-heater-hose-fitting-1968-1970/p/HHF4/
  19. I always called it a grill cover: https://www.stang-aholics.com/i-24189079-1969-70-mustang-aluminum-grille-cover-black.html I figured I'd pick one up too...
  20. There's a 90 degree fitting on top of my original intake manifold that connects to the heater core pipe. Is there a part number for this, or were can I source a new one. Threaded on one end, small lip on the other end. I was going to re-use my original one on the new intake, but it's a bit banged up plus I it's in the stock manifold so tight I'm not sure it's ever coming out.
  21. ...ok, then I should have looked harder when I ordered this tank (which says 1969-70 on it). I didn't see any notes on the Aeromotive site about this. Can I drop a 70 filler neck into the back of the 69 without having to replace the chrome filler flap cap that came on my '69?
  22. Is the filler neck different on the back of the 70 compared to the 69? That's all I can think of why this wouldn't fit.
  23. So I got a Aeromotive Stealth fuel tank+pump, which is actually a tank with the "Tanks Inc" stamped on it. https://www.cjponyparts.com/1969-1970-aeromotive-340-stealth-22-gallon-fuel-tank-kit-340-lph/p/FT78/ I figured the 22gal upgrade would be nice. That said, the filler neck on the tank doesn't line up at all with the filler tube on the back of the car. What's the trick here? I thought this was bolt-in. Do I need a new filler tube?
  24. Thanks guys! Appreciate the feedback! I think I'll start off with something like sm00hn has, just to get going. I'd love to rewire it all but that's not in the cards yet!
  25. Seems like an easy question -- but where are you guys getting all your 12V power sources from? I don't want to have everything tied off my battery post, or the starter solenoid post, as may look a bit messy. I'm trying to keep things clean. Not sure if it's "safe" to just tie it to the back of the alternator (instead of solenoid post), so what have you guys done? I'm trying to tidy up the wiring for my MSD box, headlight relays, feul pump power relay and ECU.
  • Create New...