TexasEd

Could you use a clutch fan setup with this radiator?

First 12-18 months goal is to fix suspension and steering first. Look for tires and wheels on Craigslist to hold me over for a while and fix the antenna. Save for a year then fix the AC. A few years later start working on paint. Long term dream about getting a 351W stroked to 408 or better, AOD and new differential.

First 12-18 months goal is to fix suspension and steering first. Look for tires and wheels on Craigslist to hold me over for a while and fix the antenna. Save for a year then fix the AC. A few years later start working on paint. Long term dream about getting a 351W stroked to 408 or better, AOD and new differential.

It has more work than it looks like. Here is what I know: - Suspension Shot - springs and shocks - Power Steering worthless and lots of play - AC disassembled and assumed broken - Trunk probably leaks - paint popping off the roof near the medallions - needs new tires & probably wheels at the same time - stereo antenna broken That will keep me busy for a while

It has more work than it looks like. Here is what I know: - Suspension Shot - springs and shocks - Power Steering worthless and lots of play - AC disassembled and assumed broken - Trunk probably leaks - paint popping off the roof near the medallions - needs new tires & probably wheels at the same time - stereo antenna broken That will keep me busy for a while

thanks for the link

thanks for the link

For me the extra knowledge actually made this seem feasible. Instead of going with people's advice who said I needed a coil-over suspension and rack & pinion steering to drive the thing I realized there are people out there who race open tracks with these cars without modifying anything too far from stock. It made me realize that getting it to drive better than it did out the factory door is possible without those expensive modifications. Remember these cars won a lot of SCCA Trans-Am races in 69-70 with a lot of the same basic parts we have. Check out this site too. Apparently the owner races his car and started producing the products he uses to keep his car in the vintage class but with the best possible performance. I'll probably buy most of my parts there. http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/products/ For rebuilding the factory power assist steering the best site I have seen is: http://www.stangerssite.com/ I'm going to look into his rebuild kits before I even consider the $550 replacement gear boxes. My car is in Radford, VA at my brother's house. He had a mechanic working on it this week to make sure it is tuned and ready to drive on and off the car carrier.

For me the extra knowledge actually made this seem feasible. Instead of going with people's advice who said I needed a coil-over suspension and rack & pinion steering to drive the thing I realized there are people out there who race open tracks with these cars without modifying anything too far from stock. It made me realize that getting it to drive better than it did out the factory door is possible without those expensive modifications. Remember these cars won a lot of SCCA Trans-Am races in 69-70 with a lot of the same basic parts we have. Check out this site too. Apparently the owner races his car and started producing the products he uses to keep his car in the vintage class but with the best possible performance. I'll probably buy most of my parts there. http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/products/ For rebuilding the factory power assist steering the best site I have seen is: http://www.stangerssite.com/ I'm going to look into his rebuild kits before I even consider the $550 replacement gear boxes. My car is in Radford, VA at my brother's house. He had a mechanic working on it this week to make sure it is tuned and ready to drive on and off the car carrier.

looking really good. I have that some color interior only with red paint. Sometimes I wish it was a black interior since parts are easier to find, but I do like the color.

looking really good. I have that some color interior only with red paint. Sometimes I wish it was a black interior since parts are easier to find, but I do like the color.

I might be worried about #3, the worm gears being worn since there is no tightness in the center portion of the steering. I'll take it off and see what is up with it. Does anyone know the differences between the Flaming River box and the Borgeson?

I might be worried about #3, the worm gears being worn since there is no tightness in the center portion of the steering. I'll take it off and see what is up with it. Does anyone know the differences between the Flaming River box and the Borgeson?

Has anyone rebuilt a factory power steering gear box or replaced with factory style or Borgeson? I think the Borgeson requires modification to the steering column length and is between $550 and $820 depending on what you get. I'd like to try rebuilding the factory box myself ; The parts for the rebuild can be as low as $70 but I don't know what I'd be getting myself into. http://www.stangerssite.com/GBparts.html

Has anyone rebuilt a factory power steering gear box or replaced with factory style or Borgeson? I think the Borgeson requires modification to the steering column length and is between $550 and $820 depending on what you get. I'd like to try rebuilding the factory box myself ; The parts for the rebuild can be as low as $70 but I don't know what I'd be getting myself into. http://www.stangerssite.com/GBparts.html

This is where I'm getting most of my suspension parts. http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/products/

This is where I'm getting most of my suspension parts. http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/products/

Here is some information on improving the stock suspension with light modifications that I posted in your introduction thread. http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/suspension101 Look into the suspension mods there to see if that sounds like what you would want, it is what I'm most likely to do. The other types of suspension mods usually involve a coil-over shock upgrade kit that can be several thousand dollars each to do for the front and back. The upgrades I'm looking at for my 1969 302-2v Sports roof will be right at $1250 for: new springs on all four corners, upgrades to the spring perches, lower control arm, adjustable strut rods, "Shelby" or UCA drop, new shocks and a sway bar. In addition I'll add an export brace, subframe connectors and a Monte Carlo bar for another ~$240 I think I can do all this in a month of Saturdays with the help of a friend or two. I haven't had a chance to look at what the brakes are like yet but it is equipped with factory power disc. I hope to just be able to rebuild what is there.

Here is some information on improving the stock suspension with light modifications that I posted in your introduction thread. http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/suspension101 Look into the suspension mods there to see if that sounds like what you would want, it is what I'm most likely to do. The other types of suspension mods usually involve a coil-over shock upgrade kit that can be several thousand dollars each to do for the front and back. The upgrades I'm looking at for my 1969 302-2v Sports roof will be right at $1250 for: new springs on all four corners, upgrades to the spring perches, lower control arm, adjustable strut rods, "Shelby" or UCA drop, new shocks and a sway bar. In addition I'll add an export brace, subframe connectors and a Monte Carlo bar for another ~$240 I think I can do all this in a month of Saturdays with the help of a friend or two. I haven't had a chance to look at what the brakes are like yet but it is equipped with factory power disc. I hope to just be able to rebuild what is there.

Welcome to the club of guys working on their high school cars. My first car in 1985 was a 1969 Fastback 302. It has moved around the family some between my dad and one of my brothers. I'm buying it back from my brother and it will be shipped to me from Virginia around the beginning of September. The front and rear suspension along with the steering are my first projects. I plan to stay fairly stock with the exception of replacing a lot of the rubber bushings with roller bearings. Even though I don't have much experience either I decided I can handle this part myself after reading up on it. It will be fun to compare notes. Here is some light reading on classic Mustang suspensions that I found very helpful that you might want to look at before you make any decisions. http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/suspension101

Welcome to the club of guys working on their high school cars. My first car in 1985 was a 1969 Fastback 302. It has moved around the family some between my dad and one of my brothers. I'm buying it back from my brother and it will be shipped to me from Virginia around the beginning of September. The front and rear suspension along with the steering are my first projects. I plan to stay fairly stock with the exception of replacing a lot of the rubber bushings with roller bearings. Even though I don't have much experience either I decided I can handle this part myself after reading up on it. It will be fun to compare notes. Here is some light reading on classic Mustang suspensions that I found very helpful that you might want to look at before you make any decisions. http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/suspension101

Ahhh, there is a depression inside the wider depression.

Ahhh, there is a depression inside the wider depression.

What is the Shelby gap? Is it the depression where the Mustang letters are?

What is the Shelby gap? Is it the depression where the Mustang letters are?