TexasEd

That's what I thought, which is why my original question was what is involved with converting my existing 8" to Limited Slip. - I assume I use the same drive shaft and axles. - Do I have to modify the open axle? - Can I put the new LSD third member in the existing case? From glancing at the first article jholmes 217 posted it looks like you can. It referenced this site: http://www.differentials.com/

So if you switch out to a 9" what has to change? - Do you use the same axles? - Do you have to modify the drive shaft?

I thought it might be cheaper to upgrade the innards of my 8" housing and not have to mess with drive shaft or axles. If you put a 9" in what all has to change? Sorry for my basic level questions.

Wow.:rockon: Could you make me a new valance bracket? The one that connects to the bottom of the radiator support bracket and has the hood latch connected on the top? :thumbup:

Can an open differential be converted to a limited slip differential in the same houseing? Does the existing open axle need any modifications? Just curious about what is involved since I'm sure I can get by with an 8" behind my 302 and C4. If there is a site with a good writeup on how to do this that would help me understand it all. Thanks

What range in PPM should we be using? I'll move to Lucas oil for the zinc but I don't know what to choose because I don't know what range it should be in.

Look at the 3rd post, last picture in this thread: http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=10378&highlight=sail+panel

Look at the 3rd post, last picture in this thread: http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=10378&highlight=sail+panel

Are Sail Panels supposed to be Dyed or Painted? It looks like the ones in my car were painted over at some point and they have faded. I want to freshen them up and I think painting may be what I have to do. Where can I find a list of rattle can paint colors that match interior colors? I need the dark red or maroon color in a rattle can. Thanks.

Are Sail Panels supposed to be Dyed or Painted? It looks like the ones in my car were painted over at some point and they have faded. I want to freshen them up and I think painting may be what I have to do. Where can I find a list of rattle can paint colors that match interior colors? I need the dark red or maroon color in a rattle can. Thanks.

You're missing a little cover that goes at the bottom rear of the window.

You're missing a little cover that goes at the bottom rear of the window.

My part arrived Saturday. Thanks!

What bad luck on the damage. I've got to do my suspension and steering too. I have to save up the money and hope to get to it in the next 6-12 months.

I love those wheels and looks like a good job on the lock actuators.

Looks great and I love your wheels. Can you tell me what they are?

Welcome & nice car. After I came down from my excitement and got past all the dreaming of what I wanted to do I decided I needed to get my car Inspected and registered so I could drive it since it has not been inspected since March 2001. I could have started tearing it apart but without the money in place to put it back together i would have been digging a hole. Make sure you have the money to accomplish everything you start or you might be better off working on one thing at a time and keeping it drivable to keep interest and motivation up.

Where are you? I need some of those parts but not worth shipping. I'm interested in the 9" rears, especially if limited slip. Austin, Texas area.

I understand now.

Tanner and I lived on the same Navy base in the 80's. He was in the same grade as my brothers.

Be prepared to spend 2-3 days on nothing but cleaning it, depending on the size of the floor. I have a post in the garage forum where I talked about it. http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=10008 I used a pressure washer to get paint off the floor first. I think I treated for grease spots 4 or 5 times in some places, then I tried the citric acid etcher that came in the kit but was not satisfied so I got muratic acid to etch. The floor needs to feel like sand paper. Literally took 3 days just on prep for a 3 car garage.

I don't think that is possible. There is a brass looking bushing that fills the hole the arm goes through. You can see it in my picture and also where the paint is worn off the handle from going through it.

Yeah, I came to the conclusion on my own to sell the saws and used the money to pay for the epoxy coating on the floor. Painting the floor has been the best thing I could have done as much as my car leaks. I go out there with a paper towel and some grease remover and it's gone.

I ordered the e-books from the FordManuals.com site and have been educating myself with those and the posts on this forum. Here's what I've done so far this week: Work off list for inspection and registration: - Vacuum leak affecting carb advance: New cover on a T connector to fix timing advance also ordered Pertronix Ignitor and Flame Thrower coil - Vacuum leak affecting C4 shifting: Found the hose that connects to the vacuum register was broken completely off and the upper hose is brittle; both will be replaced. - C4 leak - Transmission guy coming to help with this next week. Plan is to drop the valve body, inspect, replace filter, o-rings on shift linkage, dipstick/fill tube and the gasket on the pan. Also need to check the vacuum register. - Remove power steering components and lube steering box - nothing yet. - New wiper blades - ordered original style replacements since one of mine had a plastic tab replacement. I might have one original blade assembly to sell someone who needs the correct one. - fix E-brake - turned out to be a simple problem where the handle does not re-seat all the way back after pulling it. Ordered a new handle return spring. - replace one chipped/cracked headlight - ordered Changed the oil and filter last weekend and put a new gasket around the drain plug. I have not seen any oil leak yet. New: I found that the rubber connecting hoses for the gas line under the car are very brittle and need replacement. I'll blow out the lines and replace the hoses when I rebuild the carb (leaning towards keeping the Holley 2300) and replace the fuel filter. I don't have a drain plug in my tank, but removing that rubber hose under the car will work kind of like one. I just hope I don't have too much varnish that ends up clogging the line. Worst case this leads to getting a new stainless tank. Should I siphon most of the fuel out the filler neck before or let the force of the gas push through the line a little? I guess I'll remove the filler neck and look into the tank after it is drained.

Thanks for the info on the suspension. I'll be doing mine sometime next year.