prayers1

Dave, Imagine if you were to place the pump in the center of the tank in between the sending unit and filler neck, will the sending units float contact the fuel pumps baffle which measures 6 1/4" when it lifts up when the fluid level rises? I'm trying to determine when the float lifts up and sticks out the furthest will the baffle have enough clearance between the float and filler neck. Here's a picture of the baffle, so you can get an ideal what I'm talking about. Thanks!

FYI- I cancelled the CJPony order before it was shipped. Reason is that I'm using an Electric Fuel Pump with a carb and I have to run a 8-an return. Tanks Inc has 6-an fuel and return. It's ok to use that tank with a throttle body EFI. I want to drive the car with the carb under an electric fuel pump to see if there is any change in my low fuel pressure problems. I'm exploring: Aeromotive Phantom 200 Mustang to Fears Aluminum tank HotRodcity.com- Aluminum tank Keep us posted on what you all are doing!!!

If someone can get me the measurement of the sending units float arm fully extended, that would be great. I'm trying to determine where a Aeromotive 200 fuel pump will fit on the 1969 20 gallon tank, in the center or rear corner? With the measurement I can figure where to place the pumps baffle so that it will not interfere with the float, also need to keep in mind that the filler tube doesn't come in contact as well. I do not have a tank or sending unit available to inspect. IMO, it looks like the pump could be mounted in the center, that's if the sending units float doesn't hit the pumps baffle. Thanks for your help!

I will look at each option. My plans are to go TBI, but run the Ele. fuel pump on carb to see how it runs. I always had a low fuel pressure problem at WOT around 4500-5000 rpms. So it will be interesting to see what happens. I think I'm gonna get the Holley 12-842 Bypass reg. It looks nice and clean has 6an and is a little cheaper than most. I'm gonna take the regulator and make up some cardboard mounts to see how I like it mounted . Also I'll see how it fits bolted to the fuel rail.

Just found a Tanks Inc complete set on CJ Pony. They have 6 left. I made the purchase for for 450.30. I got 5% discount off of 474.00 for a loyal customer. FYI- Tanks Inc sells theirs for 492 + shipping. Good Luck. First come first serve.

Bad news, Tanks Inc is out of our tank until, they think mid April :( And just when I was going to put my order in. Now, Aeromotive 1968 tank, or Aeromotive Phantom 340 do it yourself in tank install???????

Buckeye, Nice ideal. I was looking for a bracket on line then thought how I could make a bracket and use the 2 threaded holes near the carb. How did you run the plumbing. It looks like you have a Tee off the regulator?? Is your return off the center bottom of the Reg or T. 1969_Mach1- I didn't think about the weight of the regulator???? Good point, maybe I can fab a bracket like Buckeye.

Thanks Mike for the replys! Yes I will be running a return. I'd like to keep the supply feeding through the original hole by the lower left front apron. My motor and shorty headers get too hot to sneak it from behind. Running the original way up to the dual feed and ending with the regulator seems like a good ideal and ending with the regulator serves as its bracket. How simple of a thought, that I didn't even think of flipping the dual feed. I appreciate your help Mike!!

How am I going to feed the rail if my supply is at the left front of the motor

I have a shaker scoop and normally the regulator is position next to the right side of the carb, but my water lines and air cleaner would be in the way. I have been looking but can't locate a rear bracket that would mount the regulator behind the carb instead of to the right of it. I really don't want to mount it on the firewall or fender apron. Any ideals of a rear carb bracket? Thanks!

You guys might want to check out other builds on the VMF page. One in particular "My FiTech EFI upgrade thread (with pictures this time)" Type in the search box FiTech and other builds come up.

Dave I have an AOD, I ran the 5/16" coolant line (brake lines from NAPA) to the radiator then to the Hayden 679 trans cooler mounted in front of the radiator. I show my car and didn't like the look of the exposed coolant lines, so I got one of those top mounted radiator covers (Mustangs Unlimited #EDK69A) that keeps the air deflected towards the radiator and it does a good job hiding the lines. I also used the LOKAR TV Cable. You want something like a 30k gvw up front of the radiator Case fitting is 1/4" pipe, the fitting on the trans is 5/16 double flare like brake line.

Very nice read with good detailed pictures. This will help a lot to who ever wants to add AC w/ easy to follow captions. I see you also bought yourself another X-Mas present, stereo :) Thanks for taking the time to make this happen!

Check out Quick Clips for attaching brake or metal fuel lines. http://www.quickclips.org/home/

Dave, Buckeyedemon shared this link that gave him the ideal of the TFP. https://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2008/04/InTankFuelPumpPart2/index2.php

Thank you so much for sharing that info.

Dan, A few of us guys over on the Tech page are trying to figure out the EFI venting and like your choice of the TPV. I know it may be asking a lot, but is it possible to see any pictures of it mounted in your vehicle. As always, Thanks for your help! John

Here's what Buckeye did. "I have a vent that routes to a two way valve (has two different pressures to relieve and hold pressure) that's routed up to the frame rail (next to where the axle tube vents in the shock crossmember).

Dave- Where did you get your steel lines from. Is it SS or zinc coated. About how many ft. did you use?

Thanks for sharing. I'd like to get a set.

Dave, Check out Buckeyedemons build. You can type a subject in the search box such as "fuel lines" and it will bring you to post related to that. There is a wealth of information from A-Z on Buckeyes pages. Terry, I don't know if the vented cap will cause any problems and might be best to speak to someone at Tanks Inc. There are a few guys on (vintagemustangforum) using the filler neck as a way to vent. They take the metal section of the filler tube and install a barbed fitting.

I have a 351 Cleveland with a RobbMc 550 hp pump. I've always had a lose of fuel pressure at high rpms. I tried an off the shelf pump and had the same problem, so I can't say there is anything wrong with the RobbMc pump. I run 3/8' fuel line and think I might have a volume problem, so maybe I need a 1/2" fuel line or the eccentric on the fuel pump arm has some unknown problems. There isn't many choices for Mechanical fuel pumps for Clevelands, but RobbMc is a reputable company and stand behind their product. If I were you, I wouldn't hesitate to buy one. Hope this helps somewhat!

Here's what Buckeyedemon is using: "I have a vent that routes to a two way valve (has two different pressures to relieve and hold pressure) that's routed up to the frame rail (next to where the axle tube vents in the shock crossmember)." http://www.newton-eq... TPV Series.pdf

I like the Silver Zine type, if that is the same material used on our fuel lines. I'm not gonna force fit the joint but rather buy the 37* flaring tool. Yeah that stiff Buckeye used is rather expensive.

Any suggestions for 3/8 steel tubing? So, far I'm looking at Summits, Tubing, Stainless Steel, Natural, 3/8 in. x 20 ft., for $53.97. OR On eBay there is SILVER ZINC BRAKE/FUEL LINE STEEL TUBING COIL 3/8 OD X 25 FT Roll, $29.95. I hear that the SS natural is tough to work with. If the Silver Zinc is like what our fuel lines are like then I would want that. What are your thoughts!!!!!