stangs-R-me
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Posts posted by stangs-R-me
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FYI ...
If the Deluxe Belts was a "factory installed option" on a "non-tach / standard instrument cluster" car, the seatbelt light is in the instrument cluster (RH side of FUEL/TEMP Gauge Pod), not on the lower dash like it would be on a factory tach cluster car.
The harness for the dash cluster belts light is different in that it has a twist-in plastic bulb socket (see pic) and is likely more common.
Just thought I'd throw this out there too.
Doug
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Mach1 Driver reacted to this -
20 hours ago, jjstang said:Thought I'd have some fun and install power windows. Looking at the Nu-relic and electric life.My search turned up nothing current, so I'd like to get some opinions between them??
Did other versions of mustangs (grande?) or other cars (cougar?) have factory power windows that would bolt right in?
TIA1969-70 Cougars had a Power Window option. To be able to get the whole complete system from a parts car would be the ideal situation.
There was a Cougar XR7 in a junkyard back in the 80's that had both Power Windows and a Tilt/Tilt-Away Wheel in it. I probably had gotten what I went there for that day and did not have the extra cash on me (and/or enough time left in my visit) at that moment to get these options completely out of that car. I kick myself today for NOT going back later and grabbing this stuff out of this car (probably pretty cheaply too) as it likely got crushed with these cool options still on it !!
Attached are the factory wiring diagrams for the 1969 Cougar Power Windows.
TODAY however, going with an aftermarket system is probably the easier and less expencive solution.
Doug
2-E26 1969 Cougar Power Windows.pdf 2-E27 1969 Cougar Power Windows.pdf
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Been a while since I visited & updated the Price List.
If you need a new Filler Neck to Tail Light Panel Cork Gasket, Neck to Tank Hose, and/or the Hose Clamps I now stock these parts too:$3.50 ... C5ZZ-9076, Cork Gasket (Scott Drake or Daniel Carpenter)$11.00 ... C8ZA-9047, Hose (Daniel Carpenter)$12.50 ... C5ZZ-9040, Pair of Clamps (Daniel Carpenter)Have all neck variations in stock and ready to ship.Doug -
On 12/15/2022 at 11:57 PM, Shemp said:Thanks Mike. I’m just trying to decide which connector I want to cut off.
If you still have a Ford steering column with Ford T/S Switch then splice the AWW harness with the Ford connector, as it would make replacing the T/S Switch easier if it ever needs to be replaced in the future.
If you have an aftermarket Steering Column that uses a GM T/S Switch, then I'd go with the GM plug for the same reason.
Doug
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I bought and installed one in my '69 with factory A/C in 2011 and here is the write up I did on it back then ...
- New Deluxe Molded Firewall Insulation Pad from Quiet Ride Solutions (MUST6970-CM1). After 7 weeks on back order with CJ Pony, I finally called the supplier (Scott Drake) direct, and their CS said they expected them in any day but had nothing firm. Not liking this answer, I searched other vendors, found one IN STOCK at Mustangs Unlimited, and canceled my BO w/ CJ. Paid $31 more for it but had gotten $20 / per $100 in gift cards from CJ (that I've since spent), so it was almost a wash. Anyway, it is a high-quality part ... better than the disintegrating OEM one I took out ... and fit nicely. All the needed holes were there, and I was able to re-use all my original hardware.
Doug
TexasEd and Mach1 Driver reacted to this -
On 11/19/2022 at 9:02 AM, kevin31 said:You are right RPM, I took 8mm wrench to do it
8MM = 0.3150"
5/16" = 0.3125"
As close as they are, 8MM tools work on 5/16" and vice versa.
So ... bleeder screws could still be SAE threaded as Grabber stated.
Doug
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I would think the stock Ford 2V & 4V 351W intakes would be the same height since you could get a Shaker on either one ... and as far as I know, there is only one 351W Shaker assy.
Doug
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I have a pair of the removal tools and don't remember having issues pulling the single DIN radios & CD players from my '94 & '98 Mustangs and my dad's '89 & '95 Taurus SHO's.
Mayber there was a trick to it, but it has been so long ago so if there was ... I don't remember !!
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On 9/6/2022 at 7:43 PM, Mike65 said:I say no also. This is something like what you would need. This one in the link happens to be a AM/FM 8 track player.
1973-73 Ford Lincoln Mercury AM FM 8 Track Radio WORKS! | eBay
This should fit in a '69-70 Dash, as should most standard Ford 2-shaft radios from 1969-early 80's. My dad had an AM/FM Cassette in an early 80's Crown Vic that would also fit.
I've got an AM/FM from a 1978 Country Squire wagon in my '69. Had another one from a '72 Country Squire that also fit ... these were both for a 4-speaker system, with the L-R Slide bar where the 8-track is located on the ebay one.
I swapped because the '78 was 6 years newer and the L-R Slide bar was chrome on the '72 & black on the '78 ... more stealthy-looking, since the correct '69 radio did not have the slide bar as it only powered the 2 speakers. I also added rear deck speakers to my car, so need a 4-speaker radio.
Doug
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Great video ... looks like it will be a fun project !!
Doug
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Those tabs were broken on most of the deluxe clock bezels I found in the 80's when I would grab '69-70 parts from junkyards and swap meets.
Thinking some were broke on purpose to save having to completely remove the dash pad to service the clock the next time ... which could be frequent with the factory clock movement.
Doug
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The one end of of each hose has 2 staples holding them to their duct pipes.
Looked under my dash and could see and feel the pipe with the kink in it ... the kink goes down to clear the speedo cable that goes above it.
Only evidence of tape I see is at the far end elbows that attach to the dash vents (passenger side elbow is not shown as is still attached to my spare lower dash).
I see no tape residue present where the hoses slip over the two ducts, so at least ways on my Metuchen built (& the spare Dearborn built) the hoses appear to have been just slip fit at these two points.
Doug
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Just looked through all my pics from when I had my dash apart in 2011 and did not find any with the ducts in place. I don't remember any type of clamps holding the hoses to the plastic pipes though ... pretty sure they were just slip fit and stay in place because they are relatively short and captive between fixed points.
Doug
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Great car and awesome find on it and the much nicer set of rims !!
For the 1st Ford I got with tire pressure sensors (2011 Mustang), you needed a remote control looking "tool" for car to learn new sensors. I had a 2nd set of rims with snow tires, but only think I had to teach the car once, then it recognized both sets of wheels. Got a 2nd set of rims for snows on my wife's 2014 Fusion and don't think it needed the tool.
As long as the sensors are good and the right ones for the model year, most newer cars find them with no learning ... figured Mopar should be the same which you found out.
Doug
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The "CORRECT" 1969 351W 4V and 390 tips have a 1-3/4" I.D. inlet, so even the stock 2" tailpipes used on 351W & 390 reduce down at the ends to slip into these tips. Front pipes & transverse muffler were all 2" as well ... the 351W H-Pipe on the other hand is 2-1/4".
1968-69 428 cars had full 2-1/4" exhaust from the H-Pipe to the tips. Instead of using the same restrictive and separate tips the 351W & 390 cars used, the 428 cars came with special 2-1/4" tailpipes with the SS. Twin Tips welded right to the end of the tailpipes for much better flow, picture & details here:
https://www.scottfullerreproductions.com/catalog/item/4595229/4650641.htm
Back in the 80's, I put reproduction big block 2-1/4" exhaust on my 351W car because I was told by the seller it would bolt right up to a stock 351W H-Pipe ... YES IT DOES.
To be able to use the stock tips, I crimped the ends of the 2-1/4" tailpipes down to slip into the 1.75" inlets of the stock tips.
My 1st set of tips were the Ford replacements that were just plain chrome plated steel (without the correct rolled S.S. tips), I got these in 1984.
Once correct reproductions made of S.S. with the rolled tips became available in 2005, I bought a pair of these ... my chrome ones were pretty rusty by then anyway.
In 2019, I bought a pair of the custom-made S.S. tips that are externally identical to the O.E. tips but have a 2-1/2" inlet and ZERO internal restriction like the O.E. tips have. They are works of art !! Cut my restrictive ends off of my 2-1/14" tailpipes and welded on 2-1/4" I.D. to 2-1/2" O.D. adapters and removed that bottle neck !!
Read all the details in the thread I posted on the subject here:
Terry ... in previous threads, you have stated you want to put the largest size exhaust on your car that will fit for the least restriction, so you would then want to use these 2.5" I.D. inlet tips to finish it off and make it look stock !!
Doug
Mach1 Driver reacted to this -
19 minutes ago, jjstang said:I don’t know if this is an issue for you but the 69 and 70 are different Length. There is a bracket behind the panel that the cup screws into. I think the brackets are different too.
To clarify, door panel o/a sizes are the same as is the woodgrain insert.
The door cup pulls are LONGER on a '69 Panel than '70, and the pics posted appear to be the longer '69 type.
Factory '69 Door Cup pulls were pot metal and you can get repro's in either pot metal or plastic. As easy as the factory ones broke, avoid the plastic ones.
I'm thinking the breakage issue might have been the reason for the change ... but if the shorter '70 door pulls really hold up better than the longer 69's I don't know.
Doug
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Yes, the AC Glove box insert is smaller than the non A/C one.
Just replied in your other thread, but it looks like I'm too late with that tip !!
Doug
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Before you install your "pristine case" in the car, you should add a brass tube support ferrule glued inside the fiberglass nipple as I did on mine.
The nipple on my original and spare case were both broken off and I was looking for a way to repair and came up with this idea and it worked great.
The brass tube support ferrule O.D. is the I.D. of the fiberglass nipple and was about the same length. Found at the hardware store ... IIRC its function is for use on soft tubing / hose inside a tube nut.
See pics
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10 hours ago, aslanefe said:Just FYI, 1970 Grande does not have the walnut/chrome insert and arm rest on the back.
I guess I did not know or remember that little fact that they were 1969 only.
Just looked in my old Mustang Recognition Guide, and sure enough the interior picture of the 1970 Grande' shows plain rear panels and they are also absent in the upgrade contents list.
Doug
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Those of us with our worthless " red-headed-stepchild" Hardtops ... this is probably our only "ONE-UP" / bragging feature we (can) have that no big brother highly sought after Sportsroof car could have !!
That and a back window you can actually see out of, a back seat that 1 or 2 average size people could sit in, and a larger / more usable trunk ... features that just don't matter in the '69-70 Sportsroof world !!
Doug
Mach1 Driver reacted to this -
I have the Grande' rear interior panels in my 1969 Hardtop ... got them from a junk yard Grande' in the 80's ... a huge difference vs. the plain steel painted panels.
I don't know if the basic steel panel is the same as a non-Grande' but padded vinyl is added along with the arm rests and woodgrain panels.
The padded vinyl is also embossed around the woodgrain, which might be hard to duplicate if the vinyl need replacing.
Mine are all original including the vinyl. Definitely a great upgrade if you can find as set in decent shape.
Doug
You can see the vinyl details pretty good in this pic:
69RavenConv reacted to this -
2 hours ago, aslanefe said:My T code 1970 Grande had non-power front discs and 5 lugs, I added a Fiat brake booster to make it power. But the car is a T5 (not Mustang), so export cars might have been different.
That has got to be it ... T5 cars had many heavy duty upgrades standard so I can see 5-Lug Wheels / Disc Brakes being one. Most T5's were pretty well optioned out too, so having a 200 Six in one has got to be pretty rare !!
Doug
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69 Fastback Engine Compartment Photos
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
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Here is a picture of a low mile original Mach 1 hood scoop wiring at the firewall. It does not show the wiring at the scoop and since the car has the factory underhood pad in place it would not be visible anyway.
And two more pictures showing how I have it on my car where I tried to duplicate the factory routing and hardware as best I could.
The main variance from stock is the Zinc/Rubber coated clip holding the harness to my hood is incorrect ... the correct clip was black plastic and taped to the harness with friction tape and is not being reproduced and difficult to find used.
Doug