jholmes217

Thanks. Seems like I'm busier now, but less stress and more family time.

Thanks. Seems like I'm busier now, but less stress and more family time.

Welcome, and nice car. I does looked naked without the hockey Boss 302 stripes though. Just my opinion.

Welcome, and nice car. I does looked naked without the hockey Boss 302 stripes though. Just my opinion.

I'm 44 years old, married with three boys ages 8, 4, and 2. I was infantry and military police in the Army, and retired after 26 years in September. I started teaching high school Army JROTC the same month.

I'm 44 years old, married with three boys ages 8, 4, and 2. I was infantry and military police in the Army, and retired after 26 years in September. I started teaching high school Army JROTC the same month.

Done

I forget where I saw it, but someone did a pretty detailed test of oils and published it. I think it was somewhere in Europe as there was a lot of oils I've never heard of. Royal Purple finished either top or really high for wear protection. Oh, here I found it. Here's the link http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf I was planning on switching to try out Royal Purple prior to reading that, but after reading that, I will definately give it a try. I plan to use Royal Purple 10W40 along with a bottle of ZDDP additive. Prior to that, I used Castrol, Kendell, or Mobil One and always had a nice clean engine inside, and the engines lasted a long time.

Have all the details for your engine combination, then call Summit or Jegs and see what they recommend. (I normally call both just to see if their recommendations match.) Also, check what the recommended fuel pressure is for your carb, then get a fuel pump that is close to that. Some pumps say they don't need a regulator in the desciption, but in reality, your car would run better with the regulator. If your fuel pump has more pressure than what is recommended for the carb, you may need a fuel pressure regulator. Without the regulator, you will probably run rich. I'm going through that right now. I bought a Carter high volume fuel pump to replace a bad pump that was on my car when I bought it. Well, my pressure is still too high even after adjusting the carb, so I'm putting a Holley regulator on this weekend if the "honey do list" allows.

Event Dates: April 1, 2011 - April 3, 2011 Location: Portland, OregonPresented by six Portland Oregon area antique car clubs, The Portland Swap Meet is the largest auto parts swap meet on the west coast with approximately 4,200 vendor stalls and over 50,000 shoppers each April at the Portland Expo Center.

My work vehicle is a 2003 Dodge Durango.

I like CJ to, but I ask more questions now before I order after a recent experience. I ordered a carburetor rebuild kit for a 735 cfm Holley on my Cobra Jet, and they sent me a NAPA kit instead of Holley. The NAPA kit has some parts wrong and some gaskets the wrong shape/size. It may work fine, but I'm a little weary of trying it.

I like the Boss 302 clone idea. Only drawback is filling the rear quarter panel vents as the Boss 302 didn't have those. Otherwise, not much required of the body. You would need the sport mirrors also. Engine wise, Edelbrock is making a "Clevor" head with matching intake in order make your own Boss engine.

You may get many different answers to this one. Here is what the pro engine builder told me after I picked it up from him when he was done with the machine work: You will definitely want to prime the oil system. This link goes to a product from Milodon that I use. http://www.milodon.com/oil-system/primers-restrictors.asp If you have hydraulic flat tappet lifters, you will want high zinc oil. I use Royal Purple engine break in oil http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RPO-11487/. Pour the oil across the rockers with the valve covers off and also fill the oil filter before putting it on. Once you are at capacity (probably 5 quarts,) prime the engine with using the instructions with the Milodon primer and drill. Spin it until you see oil circulating back into the valve train, then put your valve covers on. Chec for oil leaks. Top off all other fluids. Auto tranny cars might have to wait to get completely topped off with tranny fluid until after the 1st 20 minutes. Make sure you have your timing and your carb set as close as possible before you fire it up. Once the engine fires, get it up to 2,500 rpm and keep it there for 20 minutes. After that, dial in the timing and carb and then take it for a 40 minute ride, and vary the rpm a lot to help seat things. Stop frequently and check for leaks. Keep the RPM below 3000 for the 1st 500 miles. After 500 miles, change the oil, but use the break in oil again. Once you hit 2500 miles, you can start using regular oil (but use a zinc additive or use a special oil for our old cars that still has zinc. It's pretty much broke in at 500 miles. Check the filter and oil for signs of metal and water. I'm sure others will chime in also, but they will probably be close to this. Have I missed anything guys?

A scratched left eyeball, the flu, and a bad fuel pump on the Mach 1. :frown:

For the actual manifold bolts, I agree. However, when putting the thermostat housing on and some of the fittings (temperature gauge, vacuum ports, carburetor studs) where you are torquing into the aluminum, more care is needed. I've stripped out thermostat housing and carb holes before, and wasn't even wrenching that hard.

I would use the torque setting from another aluminum manifold if they are different from the original settings. Less chance of cracking the aluminum that way.

I've heard a lot of complaints over the past year also.

Here's a youtube video with a 69 Mach 1 running a cowl hood.

I've heard good things about this guy, and he helped me with some Autolite 4100 questions once. http://mysite.verizon.net/vze2gsgu/index.html

I will add a few more options. KP Carbs, also called Carbontootoers, has a very good reputation, and the owner worked at Pony Carbs when they were on the East Coast. I've talked with him on the phone, and he helped me by answering a couple questions about the Autolite 4100 carb. Here is his web site. http://mysite.verizon.net/vze2gsgu/index.html His prices are more reasonable than Pony Carbs also. If you want to explore using other carbs besides the Holley or Edelbrock, there are a few other options out there. The new Summit carbs have a good reputation. You could also get an Autolite 4100 and have it rebuilt. The 4300 you are running was the replacement for the 4100. The 4100 did not have provisions for emissions, so Ford switched to the 4300, but I think the 4100 was a better carb. I rebuild my own carbs. It's not that hard. Buy a couple good books, get the suggested materials and tools, and set aside some time. With all the fuel additives in gas these days, it just seems like they need rebuilt every one or two years depending on how much you drive it and what additives are used in your area.

I've been drooling over the 2012 Boss 302!

I love the free shipping at CJ's, and for the most part have had good experience with them. However, I ordered a carburator rebuild kit from them for a 428 Cobra Jet carb, and was dissappointed to see a NAPA kit was in the box. Since the carb on these cars is a Holley, I was expecting a Holley kit. I haven't used it yet, but folks on some other forums don't like the NAPA kit.

2nd what Mach 1 Rider said. You can sell off some of your extra parts to help pay for building the Cleveland. If your really concerned about the 4v heads, you can use the money from parts sales to help off-set the cost of some aftermarket aluminum heads and intake.

Haven't done anything yet to the rest of the underside, but I have tried coating the inside of the back wheel wells with melted rubber! LOL!