MikeStang

Okay need these out of the shop lol. CAme on the 66 when I got it but not my style. Fronts are 15x6 and rear are 15x7. They are American Racing wheels and have No curb rash or flaking paint Etc... rear tires are like new and front tires are shot...well they got a lot of tread but just not on the inside HaHa. I have center caps and screws as well...Rims just need to be washed and would look new again. Like to get $400.00 Cash, local pick up preferred in Lake Charles LA. or I can meet within about 50 miles.

Yeah we ran it last night for an hour or so and seemed to have no problems what so ever. On a side note we also replaced the 6k pill in the 6AL with a 7k Pill and talk about make her run Wow..amazing what a little more RPM will do HaHa

Thanks Guys. Rechecked the timing with my light and it was dead nutz on. don't remember the maker of my timing light, but its just got an on and off button, nothing special and its a few yrs old and works fine on my car, which has ALL of the same components as my biddies car does. His Dizzy and coil are new and his 6AL box is several years old. They did check the 6AL box before he brought it to me and it was fine. So last night we marked the balancer and took it for a ride and it ran like a top with no problems and balancer marks appear to be in same location as they were when I marked them. Distributor gear pin was not sheared off and looks just fine as well...This thing is Odd. So we will be driving it for 5 plus hours to Cruising the Coast next week but we will have a Spare MSD box, spare known good Parts distributor and spare Coil Just in case HaHa

Rsanter got dibbs on it Shelby lol...he messaged me this morning.

Okay so here is an odd one that I would like some opinions on. My best friend's 69 Mach died on him the other day at his house, he went through the basic diagnostic procedure and figured out it wasn't firing, so he tested his MSD box, swapped to a known good coil and still had no fire, so he brought his MSD Dist. to the house for me to swap out with mine. Tossed his dizzy in my car and it fired right up...hummm must be another problem. So he loads car up and brings it to the house. Motor is a 408 with Alum heads Etc... Ignition consists of MSD 6AL, MSD Pro Billet Dizzy with correct gear for roller cam and no vac advance as well as an MSD Blaster 2 Coil. I reinstalled his distributor last night and the car fired right up, set the timing to 14 degrees after warm up and all seemed perfectly fine...let it run about 15 min and shot timing again and all of a sudden it started moving clockwise until the scale was no longer visable...So I thought Okay maybe bad balancer but decided to be sure it wasn't my timing light, so went to my car and hooked up light and it was rock steady. Hooked light back to his car and timing was dead on and un-moving, then a few minutes later the scale went away again WTF.... Killed the car, pulled #1 plug and rotated to TDC and the mark on balancer was dead on zero.... Also the balancer is only a few months old and shows no signs of slippage, rechecked it again with light and now its rock steady and holding at 14 degrees and I couldn't make it start screwing up again.... So lets hear the thoughts? I am going to mark the balancer on the inner and outer hub and run it and see if there is any separation of the marks, and if not balancer is good. I also didn't notice any slack in the timing chain as I had him rotate the engine backward while watching the rotor and it moved almost instantly so no sign of timing chain stretch... Could the box be going out or possibly the New Distributor ?

Okay so what's everyone thoughts on some sort of Bracing after removal of the shock towers and install of mustang 2 suspension? Yeah I know all the load is now isolated to the Frame rails, but there sure aint much up front in the way of thick sheet metal. I am planning on running some supports behind the inner aprons and through the firewall to tie into the cage when the time comes, and then tying them to the front of the frame rails up near the Rad support. I still need to purchase a tubing bender that will do a good job and not cost a fortune.

Yeah I can only imagine how much of a PITA it will be to clean up, But hey if it don't leak till after Im long and gone I could care less HaHA

Okay since the 8.8" is ready to go for my 66, I figured I would toss some of this stuff out there for. I have the original 8" Peg leg rear end that is Free to a good home if anyone wants to come get it. Also have a 9" 28 Spline Trac Loc with no gears I wont be needing... Its just the Trac Lock its self, no housing or anything..Would like to get $50.00 plus shipping. Will post pics this evening. PM or text me 225-241-3278 All parts are in Lake Charles LA

So who all is heading to Cruising the Coast this year? We are leaving Lake Charles LA on Thursday the 6th around Noon time to head to the House on the coast that we rent every year...If anyone wants to cruise with our gang you are more than welcome to join up with us. Will be a 3-4 car convoy from Lake Charles to Denham Springs, where we will pick up one possibly 2 more cars and then make our way to the Coast....

The CRL flows pretty easy, but its Stringy as hell lol. putting the CRL and then installing the clips and then topping the CRL off seems to work for us.

I ordered a cable for a 68 if I recall and it had screw on it

yeah think I paid around 400 for my conversion from quickperformance.com cool part is that its a GM metric caliper and you can get it at any parts store if you have problems. Both my calipers blew out on me on the way home from cruising the coast last year...was sitting at a gas station and the pedal felt odd to me so I pushed it real hard one time and it held pressure for a second or 2 and then went to the floor...got out and looked and both calipers were pouring fluid. Ran over to O'Reilly auto parts and got a set of calipers for an 87 Cheby Monty Carlo and bolted them on and away we went... the Montycarlo calipers did not have the E-Brake provision but they got me home and Quickperformance sent me new calipers a week later

Ah so your saying the caulking strips are put into the channel of the weather stripping and then put on the glass, then the ropw is lipped in and pulled out to flip the seal around then bedding compound is used to fill the space between the body and the rubber seal?

Ha-Ha yeah I know what your talking about bud. They say it is harder to do with window out because it usually requires a 2nd hand to hold the glass, plus its easier to hang the film vertically than from top to bottom...There is less chance of getting crap under it doing it in the car vs on a bench somewhere also, but all in all its what and what on door glass, but the rear window is a PITA to do in the car. and I prefer to do that one out of the car LOL... there are a lot of new products out there to make installing easier, But I like to use the basics...Water in a pump sprayer with a cap full of baby shampoo and that's all ya need besides some clean windows and good squeegee block

Ridge Im assuming your talking about how you do the front glass?

Are you waiting to install the stainless till the following day with your Glazing and bedding compound, or are you doing it right away? This may be the problem...We have always waited 24hrs

Step AWAY FROM THE BEDDING AND GLAZING COMPOUND for starters.... That stuff is utter Crap IMHO. A guy I know that owned a restoration shop for a very long time turned me on to some stuff years ago. Its Called CRL Windshield and Body Sealant. Its made by C.R Laurence Co. Inc.... Its Black, messy as hell and will do the trick the first time... Just be sure to tape up about 2" of the glass at the weather stripping and 2-4" on the paint around the window...When I say this stuff is messy that is an understatement HaHa...Wear Gloves also because its super stringy. Here is a link, you can get it on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/C-R-LAURENCE-CRL7708-Windshield-Sealant/dp/B000KZWKE4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474406587&sr=8-1&keywords=crl+windshield+and+body+sealant If link no workie go to Amazon and put in CRL Windshield and Body Sealant, you wanting the 7708 Stuff...Go ahead and get 4 tubes Here is how my buddy showed me to do it. Mark All your studs for the clips with some blue painters tape, which you should already have all around the glass on the body, then take a magic marker and make a line on the tape that's dead in line with your studs, extend the line to the edge of the tape in case you get sealer on it you will still be able to locate the line. Install weather strip on glass after its been warmed in the sun for a bit, you could also warm it via a hair dryer or heat gun, just be careful.... Load the channel in the weather stripping with some good poly rope and set the glass in place, then have buddy hold glass in place from the outside, while you pull rope from inside to lip the seal over.... Im sure you know this already but figured I would relay it anyhow. Next step... take the CRL sealer and cut the tip off close to the end, don't want a big gaping hole in the 1st tube, just a nice 1/4" thick bead.... now from the outside of the car, insert the tip between the weather strip and the glass and start squeezing. Its helpful to have someone help hold the rubber seal up for you so you can easily see how much your putting in. You MAY start to see a very small amount come out on the inside of the glass in the car...when you see it start moving working your way around the glass till you get back where you started. 1 Tube should make this pass, Possibly 1 & 1/4 tube...Really poke the tip down into the channel, don't worry about hurting the weather strip by lifting it up a good bit, I haven't torn one yet. Next Step..... If you went to a 2nd tube cut the tip a little bit bigger and start filling the space between the body and the weather stripping.... poke the tip down in there a bit and start squeezing till you see a little bit start to push out inside of the car...When you see it, start moving around the glass till you run out...load next tube and repeat all the way around... Be careful not to fill the channel up all the way tho...you still got clips to install. Next step... Install clips... I use a 1x4 board with a bunch of tape wrapped around then end and ALWAYS try to have new clips on hand, prefer to have NOS Clips if possible...Pop all the clips in place now and go ahead and add more sealer all the way around. Your basically topping it off and paying a lil special attention to around the clips.... Keep in mind that you still have stainless to install and if you fill it up 2 much you will have a tough time getting it on. If I recall the last one I did we left the sealer just even with the top of the weatherstrip... Now just go back and smooth it all down with a rubber gloved finger tip and clean up all your mess off the glass and the car... Install Stainless 24hrs later and your good to go. This stuff doesn't get hard like silicone or anything else so putting stainless on is easy. This method has worked on multiple occasions for me and should work just fine for you as well.... Hope I didn't forget anything

Well Some help you are Ridge :-P I might just have to put my OLD HOOD Back on my car for Cruising the Coast in a few weeks HaHa.

Depending on condition and gear ratio you could probably get a few hundred for it... They don't go for a lot, most people prefer to build a 9" even tho the 8" can be built plenty strong enough to handle most chores.

Would anyone mind taking a few measurements off of their 4 link Kit? Looking to copy the Parallel 4 bar style bolt in kit but Ill be welding it into my 66. I can source everything locally. I need the following measurements. 1. Distance from the stock Front mount leaf spring bolt hole to the New Lower 4 Bar mount hole.... Basically how far below the existing leaf spring mount hole did they make the mount for the bottom bar? 2. Distance from stock front leaf spring front hole to the upper bar mounting point and how far out from the frame rail did they locate it. One could either put a square on it and measure over and up Or take a piece of string and pull it from the leaf spring bolt hole up to the upper bar mount point and measure said string. 3. Angle of coil-overs and possibly some specs on said coil overs. I can take it from here :) Planning a 4 link with Panhard bar and sway bar.

My buddies 408 Powered Mach had 275/60/15s with a TKO and 4.5 leaf mid eye springs and drop coils in the front with KYB's on all 4 corners and some slapper bars and it would pull a 1.70 60' dumping the clutch at about 4k

Yeah I gotta find one of those Diff Covers Cheap Somewhere. Right now the rear is complete and sitting on jack stands while I finish my Rotisserie haha

Thanks for the info Vic. I have the Alum driveahaft that came off the rear end so i will have it shortened and rebalanced and install the 4R70W Yolk on the frontso shaft wont be a problem. I have already removed all brackets except one sway bar bracket, and I plan on running a 4 link so no need of those pesky leaf spring plates or bolts hehe. Ill probably grab a mustang hand brake and adapt it, or perhaps adapt a 69-70 parking brake set up. I do happen to have a Lokar park brake set up for a 69 i didnt uae on my 69 maybe i can get that to work somehow? Also the tag on my rear end said 75w-140 synthetic onlyfor the oil...i got some mobile 1 that says Friction modifier included and its 75w140 wt synthetic....wonder if this will be ok?

Glad we could help

I have used and like the following tints. Oh and I worked in a tint shop for a while so I speak with a little Exp. 1.Lumar 2.Sologuard you can get it in all kinds of shades, colors and UV Reflectiveness. Tint has gotten so good now that you can take a 35-50% and it will reflect as much or More UV than a sheet of 5% from years ago. Your Tint does not have to be super dark to get the UV Protection that you want like back in the old days. I however still LOVE darker tints and have 5% on my back glass, 20% on my sides and a 5% Visor strip that is almost 3 times the legal length from top to bottom. My reasoning was 2 fold... I wanted blacked out windows because the car looks good with it and I wanted the UV protection, and I didn't want to spend a lot of money. Generally speaking the Darker tints are usually cheaper but lack the High UV protection of the lighter better engineered high UV tints. The darker % tints seem to feel cooler inside but most research claims the newer more expensive lighter shades provide actual better UV protection. Then there is the fact that I don't like people seeing everything I am doing inside my car lol... Never know what might be going down in there at a stop light HaHa. Here's a pointer #1. When you pick a tint shop to do the work, ask them if they can do your whole back glass in 1 piece, if they look at it and say No then walk away...it either means they have installers with little exp or they use cheap ass tint. Tinting our back glass is a chore in and of its self simply because there is not much room to work and the piece of tint is Huge, plus the angles you gotta get in to work it. Pointer #2. If you can have the glass tinted while its out of the car. This will provide the best tint job possible, but will make installing the glass a little harder because you will have to be careful not to scratch the tint LOL. Pointer #3. if you wait to have it tinted until after its installed do the following things for best final tint results 1. Leave all of the interior trim off around the front glass. 2. clean up any Goo that may be on the glass near the weather stripping, and I mean get some windex and a razor blade and scrape it all off right up to the edge of the weather stripping. 3. Take same windex and razor blade and hose the whole glass down and scrape it ALL, being careful not to tilt the blade so you scratch the glass because it will show in the tint if its bad enough. 4. Leave the door panels off... By doing this it lets the tint guys actually get the tint further down on the window and helps eliminate the possibility of the tint ever peeling from catching on anything installed on top of door panel...the weather stripping over time will cause this in some cases. 5. be sure that your little metal window guides at the front of the car are rubber coated really good and don't apply much pressure to the glass or it will wear through the tint fast. 6. I like my tint to be within about 1/16" to 1/8" from the very top of the driver and passenger side windows. it makes for a better finished job and looks much better, however a lot of shops will leave it down 3/8" to as much as 1/2" and it looks like unfinished shit. I am very picky with my tint and when the shop that did mine called me and told me it was ready It was late before I could get it, and didn't inspect it because it was dark, but the next day I was not a happy camper but haven't had time to let them fix it. So when I changed my front windshield and needed my front visor strip replaced I found a little mom and pop shop that had an installer that was top notch. I told him what I was wanting and his response was simple "cars like this DESERVE Top notch service and that is what I do" He took the front trim off, carefully cleaned the excess sealer off, then I sat in the car while he laid the tint across the windshield outside and found the length that I wanted it down from the top that was comfortable for me to just see under and block the sun. He then installed the tint and it was PERFECT, just like I used to do...They now handle all my tinting needs and the installer gets a $20 tip every time, even tho he always tries to refuse it :) If you are ever in the Lake Charles area I can hook ya up with them and you can get a top notch job.