magician

There is no adjustment for pedal height that I know of.It stops at the rear of the support. Mine is not running right now but iirc ,The clutch is fully dissengaged way before the pedal bottoms out toward the floor. I don't know why a spacer in the pedal assy would not work to lower the pedal.Any clutch ajust. could still be made with the rod. Prehaps a piece of flat stock could be welded inside the support. The pedal height has always annoyed me also,Never really thought about fixing it. Thanks for asking,gives me something ELSE to work on :tongue:

There is no adjustment for pedal height that I know of.It stops at the rear of the support. Mine is not running right now but iirc ,The clutch is fully dissengaged way before the pedal bottoms out toward the floor. I don't know why a spacer in the pedal assy would not work to lower the pedal.Any clutch ajust. could still be made with the rod. Prehaps a piece of flat stock could be welded inside the support. The pedal height has always annoyed me also,Never really thought about fixing it. Thanks for asking,gives me something ELSE to work on :tongue:

I had the fenders off so mine was easy on the wheel side.Yes i did have hinges and the hood off. The holes are stamped square shaped and made it easy to locate properly.

I had the fenders off so mine was easy on the wheel side.Yes i did have hinges and the hood off. The holes are stamped square shaped and made it easy to locate properly.

I had the fenders off so mine was easy on the wheel side.Yes i did have hinges and the hood off. The holes are stamped square shaped and made it easy to locate properly.

I had the same problem on my 70 . The nuts were still there just broke loose from the sheet metal. I just straitened the sheet metal out and re-welded the nuts to the apron. My aprons were in excellent shape tho.. I would never remove more metal than what is necessary to perform the repair.If you use the patch,weld some around the nuts first to avoid the problem in the future.

I had the same problem on my 70 . The nuts were still there just broke loose from the sheet metal. I just straitened the sheet metal out and re-welded the nuts to the apron. My aprons were in excellent shape tho.. I would never remove more metal than what is necessary to perform the repair.If you use the patch,weld some around the nuts first to avoid the problem in the future.

I had the same problem on my 70 . The nuts were still there just broke loose from the sheet metal. I just straitened the sheet metal out and re-welded the nuts to the apron. My aprons were in excellent shape tho.. I would never remove more metal than what is necessary to perform the repair.If you use the patch,weld some around the nuts first to avoid the problem in the future.

I have used zero rust. Good product at 1/2 the price. Check the forum also for comments http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=3ZRG&Category_Code=

I have used zero rust. Good product at 1/2 the price. Check the forum also for comments http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=3ZRG&Category_Code=

I have used zero rust. Good product at 1/2 the price. Check the forum also for comments http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=3ZRG&Category_Code=

Buying vintage brake parts without a donor car can cost more than aftermarket kits.The disc off a 75-76 Granada is one of the most popular conversions. Google Granada discs,there are a ton of sites to guide you. heres a aftermarket set for 700$ http://www.chockostangclassicmustang.com/guarantee.html

I believe some movement is normal. The stud moving controls the direction of the fluid pressure. E-mail Randy(the steering Guru) at http://www.stangerssite.com/links.html. with questions

I have the ornaments.Let me check their condition and get back with you.

I have my doors apart right now .If you don't find a solution today, I will look in mine and see if I can give you any suggestions. Will post back later.

Try here or call Randy http://www.stangerssite.com/FAQs_index.html

How about a slim jim or a locksmith.They might be able to grab the mech. from the out side of the door.

http://www.stangerssite.com/conversions.html Read this page

Yes you can. Thats what I did. If I recall correctly you wil have to re-plumb from the M/C to the distro block or use adapters to make the lines fit the M/C. Have fun with the flaring tool to make the lines to the p-valve : )

My Granada setup works fine with a 69 PB m/c. Your going to have to re-plumb some lines. Are you using the Granada disto block or a adjustable p-valve? I don't know about the difference in the rod length for a power drum vs power disc. I would assume they are the same.

Getting all the grease off is more important than getting all the paint off. A good coat of epoxy primer after a thorough cleaning will seal the block just fine for top coat.The best paint on an engine is a quality 2k(2-part) paint.Not spray bombs http://autobodystore.com/forum/index.php search here for good advice

Call scotty in NC 919-691-7098

1/16 thick,approx 3/8 wide. Mobile home supply houses have been known to have it also. Just don,t get the grey strip caulk. The Metra product is probably good also.

It is strip caulking. I got mine from a local commercial glass shop. Don't skimp on the quality. It will leak there.

70 fender has side marker lites.They would need to be welded up for proper look.