dmac

Sounds like the battery is dead. Are the idiot lights toggling on when you put the key to ACC? Check the battery, if it has over 10.5 Volts like the previous post said then you should move to the starter solenoid. Mine went bad a few years ago and it would only work if I whacked it with a wrench or something. :shifty: They are pretty cheap, $18 on http://www.rockauto.com Check your grounds on the engine and battery too, if they are oxidized that could cause a "no start" condition also. Good luck!

Cool, Im pretty sure a 500 will be overkill for my engine. Your talking a Hydraulic clutch setup? If you have any pictures of the install or the shifter location I would really like to see them.

Dont ship it with UPS!:scared:

I havent seen one, but it would seem like the front clip (fenders, grill, etc.) would install on a coupe. Sounds kind of cool!

Have any of you put a TKO500/600 into one of your mustangs? I read on their website that its a straight forward install, like the same driveshaft, same clutch, etc. They sell the trans with a stepped down input shaft for the flywheel that is the same length, bolt pattern and spline count as the 4 spd toploader. http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/5_speed.html <--- a quick google search comes up with several sites that list an early ford configuration. To me if it is a relatively easy install, it makes more sense to put a TKO in an older mustang than to screw around trying to get a T-5 out of a foxbody into one. The cost is under $2500, which again, seems to me to be better than the T-5 conversions I have seen for 3 grand and up. What do you guys think? are there hidden complications, costs, etc that I am overlooking? Heres some fine print... No I haven't extensively searched the entire forum to see if this question was asked before, and frankly I want a new perspective anyway! :double fuck:

Thunder Kiss, What size wheels/tires are you running on your mustang? I really like the way it sits and looks. :biggrin: I am looking to put some 18's up front, maybe 20s in the back on mine. I am going to have to put a custom backspacing on the rear also...(narrowed rear axle) did you order your wheels "off the shelf" or were they custom backspaced for your application? Are there any brands of tires/wheels that I need to avoid or you recommend?

Mustang when its not raining... Toyota tacoma when it is.

horsepower vs. seat of the pants torque... What do you want to do with the car? Driving on the highway - leave the high gearing, street light to street light go with a 3.73-4.56 and you will see a huge difference in the acceleration. I agree with S Code. People always SAY they have more HP than their car actually does.

Thanks 69cobraman! I might be able to avoid the deer if I get some of those, they are alot cheaper than I had seen other places!

Yeah I agree with Denver69, it sounds like the booster is not functioning. That could be the pushrod from the pedal not being adjusted, or could be inside the booster causing no vacuum. I had a 76 F-250 that I went through the brakes on to try and fix the same prob, finally replaced the booster and searched for vacuum gremlins untill I got it to work right. S Code is right, the pedal should be firm, but not like a rock, it should give for a few inches with increasing pressure.

Got mine mounted on the column, blocks the right side gauges alittle. no pic yet sorry.

The damn headlights are so dim on my 69, I drive everywhere with all 4 blazing. Taking out the two inside ones will make it impossible to drive safely at night! But the intake idea and picture are cool. Could you route the tubes to the outside headlight buckets? Then you could use the 70 mustang front end with the hi/lo beam lights moved to the inside? BTY, I dont think you are butchering your car, at least you are trying to put it back on the road!

Thats what I did, I ran it up through the shifter hole and under the carpet. No issues, and no binding or exhaust problems.