manley

http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/Universal_Outer_Tie_Rod_Ends.asp Other parts of the site can be used to find the appropriate part numbers.

Sweet.... I appreciate it.

It runs through the torque box.... I have seen a pictorial showing how someone recreated it. There is actually a piece of curved sheetmetal inside the torque box that guides it in through the top and out the bottom.

I want to be able to positively id steering components such as center links and tie rods that don't have a part number cast on them. I REALLY want to know the measurements for the holes in the various center links and the measurements of the tie rods where they differ from 69 to 70. Where can I find this information? I haven't had any luck searching the web. Thanks!

I just supported my completely disassembled car with jack stands. I bought my floor at a show in Columbus and have no idea what brand it was. The most I had to do to make it fit was use a few sheetmetal screws to pull the front edges against the rockers and a few to pull the toeboards and floor together.

Don't the convertible TB's have provisions for the inner rocker? Which you car does not have.... so, you would have a huge gap there. Get the 2 piece Dynacorn TB's since you are replacing the toeboards as well. Forget the 1 piece TB's. You will have to cut them apart to get them to fit, so you might as well buy them that way already.

Jets!

can't remember the name.... the metering rod kind hangs in it or whatever.

WTH? Whoever did that needs their kneecaps broken. I'm no expert, but I think that part is actually important to the structural integrity of the car... I would repair it the best I could or replace it. To my knowledge, new reproductions are not available.

WTH? Whoever did that needs their kneecaps broken. I'm no expert, but I think that part is actually important to the structural integrity of the car... I would repair it the best I could or replace it. To my knowledge, new reproductions are not available.

LOL. Ahahahahahahahaha!

I climbed around in my buddy's barn today. There are 9 classic Mustangs there, 4 of which are 69's and 70's. So, I started slipping open ended wrenches over the castellated nuts and found that the 69's have a 11/16 inch nut and the 70's have 3/4 inch nuts. I also checked a 73 and it has 3/4 inch nuts. My setup has 11/16 inch nuts, so apparently I was smart enough or lucky enough to have bought the correct used parts years ago. Before I did this, I tried fitting the tie rods to some 69 drum spindles and then to my 70 disk spindles... if I pushed hard enough, I could just see the end of the threads when I put it on the 70 disk brake spindle, squashing the rubber boot pretty good. On the 69 drum spindle, I had several threads still down in the hole and I bet they get drawn up even more when tightened down properly. And that's the extent of my learning experience today. Off to order parts from Opentracker! Thanks!

I might just be over-thinking this. LOL. I just want to be sure I order the right parts. There are no part numbers it seems. I read that Ford used paint swabs to ID these.

I need to positively ID the year of my drag link before I order parts. I yanked the power steering so long ago and swapped to manual that I can't remember exactly where I got the manual setup. It might have been eBay or a swap meet... either way, I could have a 70 setup and not realize it. Are the holes different sizes between 69 and 70? Is the drag link itself a larger diameter in 70? I'm crossing my fingers for a 70. lol

Welcome to the neighborhood.

Non-power drum brakes were standard on the Mach 1's. Unfortunately.

If you are searching for a rust free trunk lid, you will never be happy with this one. I would want a complete refund.

D'oh. Somehow I didn't think it was turning over. My bad. Not long after I got my car running, I pulled that harness off because the reverse light wires were toast. I didn't realize the little loop on the other two connectors was very important! haha... that one had me frustrated for quite awhile. My car sat for 10+ years outside. I followed the advice of someone and poured some Marvel Mystery oil in all the spark plug holes. During the 2 months it took me to get the car "drivable", I rotated the engine by hand for a couple minutes every time I worked on the car. The only things I ended up replacing shortly thereafter were the pushrods. They were all bent...I'm not sure if they were like that already or if it happened after I got the car running. Oh, and I changed the oil before I ever started the car...and 2 more times after running the car for 30 minutes each time.

Is the reverse light /neutral safety switch harness connected?

Your floor and firewall extensions don't look all that bad really. Why are you replacing them? I only see the one hole on he driver's side. Concerning the torque boxes, from what I've seen, they were put in as bare metal... no paint. So, if they aren't rusted now, I bet they will be eventually if they ever see any damp weather.

I don't care for the wheels. I think I would probably like it if the wheels were chrome or aluminum.

Yea, check this thread out: http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=7049

3 piece? You can find the 2 piece boxes easily enough. I've never heard of 3 piece boxes. I recommend paying the extra money for the more correct 2 piece Dynacorn parts if you are replacing the toe boards, too. Wish I had known the difference.

LOL... that's what I get for doing a search and only looking at the month and day of the post. Somehow I glanced right over the 2009 year.

I should have taken pics of the torque boxes before I cut them and welded on new flanges. The original torque boxes have one flange bent the same from the rocker up to the kick panel. The reproduction I bought were "sectioned." The bottom 2/3 is bent about 3/8 inch more inboard than the top 1/3. I think they are trying to adjust for the offset caused by the thickness of the rocker sheetmetal that overlaps the kick panels....but it's only 1/16" of an inch or less! The LH side, I fixed after getting the torque box tacked in place. This was a horrible idea. The RH, I cut the lower flange off and welded a new one on that lined up with the top 1/3. This was a horrible idea...maybe. Unfortunately, I assumed the top 1/3 would fit against the kick panel. I was wrong. So, the next plan is to split the torque box in two, get everything lined up, weld everything in, then weld a flange to connect the torque box to the angled part of the frame rail. At this point, I almost have considered taking the loss, buying the better reproduction parts and doing it all over... and better. My advice, take your time, clamp the torque box in place and look at everything twice! From every angle! You're probably going to have to make some modifications to it.