Brake Expectations

[Machspeed 219]

Hey friends, taking my car apart right now for a complete restoration. The car will be somewhat of a resto-mod….stroker 351W, TKO 600, etc.  Car is a 69 Mach with power front disc brakes and has been sitting since 1983. As the car has been sitting so long, I expect issues with the brakes, specifically the front calipers, brake booster and possibly the proportioning valve.  I don’t care about the master cylinder, it is not original and thus I will replace it. The other parts are all OEM components on my car. For what I will be doing with the car, I feel the factory brakes are fully adequate, provided they are in good working order. That said, I’m thinking all my OEM parts will require rebuild or replace. I’d like to keep my original parts, booster and calipers. I’ve read you cannot find parts to rebuild the booster, is this true?  Also, I’m not finding much on rebuilding the calipers. Thoughts on this matter and suggestions would be much appreciated.      

[MikeStang 247]

Look into the CSRP Brakes.

My car was a Factory power set-up to begin with, I went with the CSRP Granada Swap and couldn't be happier..Cost like $749.00 for the kit and come with a master Cyl, I then went to O'Reilly Auto parts and bought a new booster and poof front brakes were done and it stops on a dime...

[Mach1 Driver 561]

West Coast Classic Cougars has a good video on boosters and has someone who will rebuild yours

[Brian Conway 264]

Your booster is most likely a ' BENDIX 6945 '  This is stamped on the front.  Put you original in a box and buy a rebuilt one from NAPA or just google it to see who has one for sale.  Should be under $200.  The NAPA M1929 w/ 1" bore is the MC I am using. Under $100.   The calipers may just need to be cleaned up and honed and then a rebuild kit installed.  You can clean it hone it and the cost of the Kits $100 ?   Muscle car research sells the kit to rebuild your Press. Diff./Proportioning Valve.  Less than $50.  Brian

[Machspeed 219]

Your booster is most likely a ' BENDIX 6945 '  This is stamped on the front.  Put you original in a box and buy a rebuilt one from NAPA or just google it to see who has one for sale.  Should be under $200.  The NAPA M1929 w/ 1" bore is the MC I am using. Under $100.   The calipers may just need to be cleaned up and honed and then a rebuild kit installed.  You can clean it hone it and the cost of the Kits $100 ?   Muscle car research sells the kit to rebuild your Press. Diff./Proportioning Valve.  Less than $50.  Brian

Indeed, my booster is the Bendix. I keep looking at different options here, one of which is the Tuff Stuff booster. As I will be converting to a stick (TKO 600) though, not sure if I will have some issues with the clutch pedal should I go with this. Also, I would need to make some modifications to the brake lines. I believe the Tuff Stuff booster is shorter but bigger in diameter. I've read good things about some re-builders, specifically one that goes by "Booster Dewey". Thinking more and more about just having mine rebuilt.

 

Want a factory looking MC, so will look into your NAPA unit. And, I have researched the kit for the Diff/Proportioning valve which I'm going to purchase. Thanks for that, Brian!

 

Thanks fellas!

[jwlast 0]

This thread got me thinking.....I have a 69 Mach 1 with factory power discs up front. They are all or nothing brakes. Either nothing or locked up...which makes the car exciting to drive. That said, is there a start from scratch way to go with an aftermarket set up that will improve this? Actually the brakes are the worst thing about driving the car. I want to stay with the original factory wheels so not looking for monster discs. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated.

[Mach1 Driver 561]

They are all or nothing brakes. Either nothing or locked up...which makes the car exciting to drive. 

I bought my Mach new with PB, front discs, and it has never behaved like that- you have a problem.

[Machspeed 219]

I bought my Mach new with PB, front discs, and it has never behaved like that- you have a problem.

Wow, original owner! Not many of us are here. In fact, that would be a good topic question. I bought mine from the original owner in 1975 and have managed to keep her all those years. That, in itself, is somewhat rare but to be the original owner is something totally different. How old were you when you bought it? 

[Mach1 Driver 561]

Wow, original owner! Not many of us are here. In fact, that would be a good topic question. I bought mine from the original owner in 1975 and have managed to keep her all those years. That, in itself, is somewhat rare but to be the original owner is something totally different. How old were you when you bought it? 

I was a young and dumb 19. I made a good choice though- its been the most reliable vehicle I've ever had. Its just getting old like I am ;) 

[Rsanter 152]

I have the tuff stuff booster on my 69. Works great and I am happy with it. I put a willwood MC on my car, good working unit as well.

 

For the calipers you have on the car. Remove them, clean them, pop the pistons out, clean and hone lightly and put them back together with new seals. Unless they are heavily pitted or something that's all the rebuilder is going to do so you might as well keep those.

 

New bearings and seals while you are there.

 

Buy or rebuild the rear wheel cylinders and you can buy a new or rebuilt MC or just rebuild yours

 

Bob