Rim Blow Horn Switch

[1969_Mach1 333]

I need to replace the rim blow switch in my steering wheel.  I purchased a switch made by Daniel Carpenter.  Any tips to get the new switch installed into the groove?  The switch will just not go in.  The groove in the steering wheel is clean.  I tried soapy water like the instructions mention.  First it seems like the rubber is not flexible enough.  Second, it looks like the copper strips have slid out of the rubber, or the rubber is too short.  At each end the copper strip with the wire soldered to it sticks out about 1/2".  Can the copper strips be pushed back in?  Or is that normal as long as they don't touch each other after installed.  I don't want to get too aggressive pushing this switch into the groove.  The last time I replaced one of these was about 20 years ago.  Back then it was a Ford part. I had no trouble installing it.

 

Anybody else use this particular brand switch?  I there a better brand switch? 

[Raven R code 281]

I would check to see if your gap has changed with age.

[1969_Mach1 333]

I've read the gap does shrink with age.  What is it supposed to be.  Right now, the gap is about 0.100" inch narrower than the widest part of the switch and it doesn't easily compress to fit.  I don't want to damage a $100 switch then not be able to return it.

 

I see that Rim Blow Buddy makes their own horn switch and claim it's a much softer rubber and install easily.  Has anybody used theirs?

[Raven R code 281]

I have a Rimblow done by Rimblow buddy. The switch itself looks like a cheap knock-off but it was free with the work that was done. The switch is very wavy in its channel. My original switch is still soft and pliable and will probably go back in.

[Black_69_FB 49]

This video is for a '70, but hopefully it helps:

[1969_Mach1 333]

Thanks for the info.  It's very upsetting.  It's like aftermarket gets things close, then puts them out on the market and doesn't care weather they work or fit correctly.  The one I removed was an OEM Ford part about 20 years old.  The rubber was tearing in a couple spots.  Even with that, it was more pliable and softer than the Daniel Carpenter switches.  Looking back, I should have tried to glue the torn sections back together and leave it alone.  I seemed to have opened a can of worms.

 

Black_69_FB, thanks.  I did see that video.  After watching it a couple times I realized the 1969 rim blow switch is shaped differently than the 1970-1974 rim blow switches.  His tip of using a razor blade doesn't seem to apply on the 1969 switch.  WCCC videos seem to be pretty good for OE type of repairs, which actually is more for me.

[Brian Conway 264]

Just a suggestion;  test the switch before installing.  Easy to do just hook up the switch leads to horn contacts.  Personally tried two Carpenter units.  Both failed this right out of the box.  Brian

[1969_Mach1 333]

I got the switch installed.  I used an exacto knife and slightly trimmed the slot to open it up some, guessing 0.015" 0.020".  I checked the switch first, then after it was installed.  so far, all is okay.  Thanks for the input.

[shelbyshelby 52]

1969_mach

Any chance you could post the width of the channel in your steering wheel? I'm about to do this and my wheel looks too narrow in one place compared to rest of the channel. I'm curious to what width others have.

[1969_Mach1 333]

After I trimmed the channel I didn't measure the width.  Before I trimmed the channel it was at 0.320" wide.  Of course, the grooves at the bottom of the channel were wider where the rubber T-shape part of the switch fits into.  But the part of the switch that sits in that 0.320" wide portion was about 0.370" wide.  I didn't trim much.  Just shaved it a little then sanded it smooth with some 220 wet and dry sand paper.  I also thoroughly cleaned the grooves with a pick.  I spent some time preparing it which made a big difference.  I know the pro's would probably frown at shaving the groove to widen it some.  But sometimes you get to a point where it doesn't work like it is, so you have to try something or replace it.

 

Before I installed the switch I carefully pushed the copper strips all the way back in the rubber.  Both copper strip ends with the wires soldered on had worked out of the rubber about 1/2".  Then with very soapy water I was able to install the switch using only my fingers and thumbnails to work it into the groove.  I did small sections at a time like the instructions stated.  For me, it installed easier inserting it into the wood grain side first then working the other side in.

 

Best of luck.  Take your time with it.  If it fights you, step back and think about it before getting rough with it.  These repro switches damage fairly easy.