Melting Threads

[rodbrady 18]

A couple of months ago, I ordered a suspension kit from Laurel Mountain. Tonight, I finally got the power steering rack reinstalled, so I busted out the new parts and started installing the new tie rods on the center link. I tightened the castle nut until it was starting to get snug, then switched to my torque wrench to finish tightening it to 50 ft-lbs, so I could back it off for the pin.

 

However, it seemed to take longer than expected to tighten up, then it started getting looser. Thinking it was just pulling the tapered shaft in, I wrenched a few more turns, but it never would tightened up again.

 

I decided to loosen the nut to see what was going on, and low and behold, the nut wouldn't back off. I had to apply pressure to the back side of the nut to get it back off. Only then did I discover, that the threads on the tie rod ball joint had seemingly melted, like they were plastic.

 

Thinking that it was an anomaly, I tried the other tie rod, with the same results! Am I missing something here, or are these parts just crap??

 

[Rsanter 152]

Parts are crap

That shaft should be hard enough that the nut strips first

 

Bob

[barnett468 418]

.

+10

 

buy scott drake or moog.

 

i think the torque on those is actually 35 ft lbs, not 50.

.

Edited October 16, 2014 by barnett468

[MikeStang 247]

MOOG ONLY for suspension parts

[1969_Mach1 333]

If the threads on the stud actually stripped, I agree, poor quality parts. It sounds from how they tightened when installing like the threads on the studs were not cut or formed correctly. Go with MOOG or Raybestos (formerly Spicer) and not any of the lower grade products they offer.

[70fastbak 16]

I agree, go with Moog, good quality ive never had any issues with moog parts.