LoneWolf2U 136 Report post Posted August 13, 2014 Pic of fan you posted has fan too far out of shroud to do much good, adding a longer spacer will help. Pic's of my added cooling plates are in a post here about cooling the beast. don't have them on this laptop right now. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rip Rock 13 Report post Posted August 13, 2014 (edited) I have a heating problem with the new motor. It came stock with a 22inch 2 core radiator' date=' which I replaced with a 4 core 24 inch. I have a flowcooler high volume water pump and a new pusher fan with 1400 cfm's. Without the pusher fan it runs with needle pegged. When I turn on the fan it runs about 85% hot. I've had this car 35 years and has always run hot but not this hot. Last night I took it out about 10pm when it was cool outside and still the same thing. The upper hose was really hot and the lower one was just hot. I had taken the the thermostat out and it still hot. I did the pan of boiling water to check and it was fine. It is the one came with the water pump. Should I be looking at a cross flow radiator? As always any help would be greatly appreciated![/quote'] I just went through this on my mod motor, with little room for a rad. I have an old school up and down flow.A pusher fan is 20% less than a puller fan by what the majority of the internet says. The best fan to get is a ford Taurus fan. Then 38 dollar fan at pick n pull destroyed my 300 dollar flex-a-lite. Here was my testing: This solved my cooling issues I had. Now i can control a constant degree to what I set it to. This may help you out, may not. You could also run a secondary rad. I have a small one under the car to get my correct surface area. for example a bugatti veyron has 5 rads to keep the temps down. I know that it isn't correct way, but if you are too small, your too small. I know I was too small. lol Edit: If you do a fan in front of the rad and have a fan on the back (stock or aftermarket) the front has to be equal or greater cfm. If it is lower cfm it will cause more issues than without one. Edited August 13, 2014 by Rip Rock Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jmlay 80 Report post Posted August 13, 2014 The fan needs to be 1/2 way in the shroud. If not it will not pull air through the radiator effervescently. Longer spacer is required to move the fan closer to the radiator. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Max Power 74 Report post Posted August 13, 2014 The fan needs to be 1/2 way in the shroud. If not it will not pull air through the radiator effervescently. Longer spacer is required to move the fan closer to the radiator. LOL! http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/effervescently Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
'70MACH1 10 Report post Posted August 13, 2014 (edited) As always you guy's rock when it comes to trouble shooting. i will hit up the wrecking yard for a longer spacer first. Then go from there. Thanks Ken Edited August 13, 2014 by '70MACH1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jmlay 80 Report post Posted August 13, 2014 Good grief. I cannot explain that... LOL! http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/effervescently Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Patriotgamez 14 Report post Posted August 13, 2014 Good grief. I cannot explain that... Effortlessly? I think Siri or spell check gotcha Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
'70MACH1 10 Report post Posted August 19, 2014 I put a 1 inch longer spacer on the car but that made things worse. I was told by a mechanic that it needs to be closer to the edge of the shroud otherwise it won't pull enough. Clutch fan next and back to the stock spacer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jandj1970 13 Report post Posted August 19, 2014 Interesting, how close was the fan to the radiator mate ? If the blades Were to close yes it wont work. Maybe try 1/2 inch spacers, did you try the temp gun on your motor to see how it is getting? How long has the radiator been in the car, maybe get a shop to flush it out. Also did you say you have a pusher fan in front of the radiator mate, maybe thats restricting air flow at low speed. Also do you have an old fixed blade fan, maybe the new fan its not pulling the air properly at low speed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jandj1970 13 Report post Posted August 19, 2014 Also is your car an auto mate? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jmlay 80 Report post Posted August 19, 2014 The Fan needs to be in the shroud not at the edge, fan should have 1/2 the blades enclosed by the shroud. I mustang is a tight package so the fan will be quite close to the radiator.: http://www.karmustang.com/product.php?productid=16146 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69gunslinger 14 Report post Posted August 21, 2014 Could your issue stem from your .044" oversize bore? As I understand it, taking a 351 C bore over .040 is a recipe for issues due to the inherently thin cylinder walls. Mine has been bored .030 over, forged flat top pistons, 71 4V closed chamber heads that have been shaved to 60 cc combustion chambers, with my Manley S.S. super duty valves installed, to achieve 10.5:1 CR with a standard thickness head gasket. How did you get 11.5:1 CR? What heads / gaskets and pistons are you running? Just curious? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jandj1970 13 Report post Posted August 21, 2014 That's a good point 69Gunslinger, hopefully when he had his motor built that checked the cylinder thickness. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
'70MACH1 10 Report post Posted August 26, 2014 Sorry it took so long to get back to this but have been real busy. Ok after doing more research I decided against the clutch fan, but I did buy a 6 bladed flex fan. It was little longer blade so I had to adjust the radiator to make it work. Not much difference. I'm trying all the cheap fixes first. Next will try the wrecking hard for a taurus puller fan. Ok 69gunslinger here's the break down. I went with custom pistons because it was already 40 over and I wanted bore as little as possible. Arias pistons Comp roller cam #32-246-4 Dur @ .230/236 Lift .562/.565 Comps "Ultra Pro Magnum" roller rockers #1830-16 Bore 4.044 Head gasket .040 Stroke 3.5 Deck 0-.005 Rod 5.780 offset pin Comp height 1.645 Held 63cc Dome 1.3cc Edelbrock performer ported Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
