69 ignition pigtail question

[wildcat 10]

Hello, new member here, I've been checking out your site for awhile getting some good info on things.

I have a 69 base coupe 302/331 and the ignition pigtail wires are coming loose causing problems. Now I've found a replacement made by Scott Drake but there are two choices. One has a resistor wire and the other does not and both pictures are identical. part # C9AZ-14313-A is without and C9AZ-14313-AR is with the resistor wire. Will either work. thx for the help

Edited July 18, 2014 by wildcat

[RPM 1,190]

Welcome to the forum! I'm a car electrical idiot, so I don't have an answer. Lots of nice informed folks here who will chime in for you. Now for the important stuff, where do you live and where are the pics of your car?

 

Bob

[det0326 179]

Hello, new member here, I've been checking out your site for awhile getting some good info on things.

I have a 69 base coupe 302/331 and the ignition pigtail wires are coming loose causing problems. Now I've found a replacement made by Scott Drake but there are two choices. One has a resistor wire and the other does not and both pictures are identical. part # C9AZ-14313-A is without and C9AZ-14313-AR is with the resistor wire. Will either work. thx for the help

If you are talking about the pigtail that has 3 wires, one going to the ignition coil one going to the temp sender and the other going to the oil pressure sender then you need the one without the resistor because IIRC the resistor wire is built into the harness this is assuming you have stock OEM ignition and wire harness.

Dave

 

BTW welcome to the forum

[Wycked69 20]

Welcome to the forum !!!

 

Hopefully Randy of Midlife will chime in on this and make it clear for us all. I cant speak for the 69 or 70 well enough but earlier mustangs the pink resistor wire was further down stream of the ignition (on factory cars with tach anyway).

 

This begs the question why 2 different versions ?

-Is it because the system is different between cars "with" factory tach and cars "without" factory tach

 

-Is it possible due to many people upgrade to electronic ignition such as pertronix and when doing so, the resistor wire is not used ? (the pertronix likes a full 12V)

 

Randy, chime in and educate me here on this please

[det0326 179]

I could be wrong but you can go here http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=14352&page=2&highlight=fuel+gauge

and look at post 12 and it shows the resistor wire is in the under hood wire harness . This is posed by Prayers1

Dave

[det0326 179]

Hello, new member here, I've been checking out your site for awhile getting some good info on things.

I have a 69 base coupe 302/331 and the ignition pigtail wires are coming loose causing problems. Now I've found a replacement made by Scott Drake but there are two choices. One has a resistor wire and the other does not and both pictures are identical. part # C9AZ-14313-A is without and C9AZ-14313-AR is with the resistor wire. Will either work. thx for the help

 

Sorry I may have misunderstood what pigtail you were talking about I thought when you said ignition you meant the pigtail that goes to the ignition coil but I did a search on C9AZ-14313-A and it is the Ignition switch plug. Also did search on C9AZ-14313-AR but didn't bring up anything. But if the ignition switch plug is what you need then you would not need a resistor wire at all simply cut the old plug off and splice the new switch pigtail on making sure you connect wires correct and insulate properly. Some use butt splices and others solder the wires and insulate with heatsrink tube.

[Midlife 814]

The pigtail for the ignition that has the pink resistor wire is for the standard, non-tach dash. The one without the pigtail is for the tach-dash configuration.

[wildcat 10]

thanks for the warm welcome and the info. I should have said, the wires on the back of the ignition switch, then you would know which ones I meant. I do not have the stock in-dash tach so then I would need the resistor wire? I'm confusing myself here I better go back to the wiring diagram and see where the wires go. One thing I find helpful is when you find a schematic with the wires actually colored instead of the blk/wh drawings.

[Flanders 47]

What Midlife said.

You'll need the resistor wire for your set-up. The resistor wire goes from the ign switch to the coil.

[det0326 179]

thanks for the warm welcome and the info. I should have said, the wires on the back of the ignition switch, then you would know which ones I meant. I do not have the stock in-dash tach so then I would need the resistor wire? I'm confusing myself here I better go back to the wiring diagram and see where the wires go. One thing I find helpful is when you find a schematic with the wires actually colored instead of the blk/wh drawings.

 

The resistor wire is already in your harness but I don't know if you can splice it to the new one or not MidLife can verify this for sure. That said

I noticed the pigtail part # C9AZ-14313-A says they give you a full length resistor wire like they mean for you to run the new one all way to the three prong plug under the hood where it goes through the firewall. So maybe it can't be spliced I don't know. Also the description says this one part can be used for tach or non tach don't know about that either but I am sure MidLife does and sure he will be back to clarify.

Dave

 

Keep forgetting you are new, to clarify a little farther we keep mentioning MidLife he restores these old harnesses and knows every inch of them you may want to PM him because he may have something to repair your plug that he will sell you.

Edited July 18, 2014 by det0326

[Midlife 814]

I did not know that anyone made an ignition switch w/pigtail that included a resistor wire, but it is possible. I don't bother to check the catalogs for them; I harvest them from existing OEM harnesses.

 

Yes, you can use a full length resistor wire version: simply splice it where convenient, keeping the overall length approximately the same. Total resistance should be 1.3 to 1.7 ohms. If your original does not use it, simply cut the pink resistor wire off and shield the tip from inadvertent contact to ground. Splicing the pink resistor wire can only be accomplished by a crimp or silver soldering. I recommend crimping.

 

The key to installing an ignition switch w/pigtails is to match up the wires using colors. Most aftermarket switches also include a white/red wire on one socket that is not used on Mustangs.

 

For a standard dash, the pink resistor wire at the ignition switch also shares that pin with a green/red wire. Simply match up each wire to its underdash harness counterpart and you should be good to go.

 

If uncomfortable doing so, simply send the underdash harness to me and I'll refurbish the entire thing with OEM components and provide a 2 year, no questions asked warranty.

[wildcat 10]

Thx Midlife, I will have a good look underneath the dash to make sure what wires are going where. I'm thinking off taking out the drivers seat, my back is killing me trying to work up under the dash.