need pics of rear proportionate valve

[prayers1 153]

Switching from front drum to front 1970 disc, Going to use the manual distribution block and plumb a rear proportionate valve.

 

Does it have to be mounted or can it just hang in the air, I prefer the latter. It's pretty tough for me to mount it, its just because of the doubled covered lines I'm using, it prevents bending near the fitting.

 

Examples of install with pictures would be nice.

 

How do you start of with the rear adjustment.

 

Thanks for your help!

[RPM 1,190]

Pic of my 69, similar to 70. The pic should be flipped for proper orientation on car.

 

 

 

 

It bolts to the left rear fender apron in the recessed area with two holes about 1-1/2" apart.

 

 

 

Since you've received no 70 pics, this may help.

 

 

Bob

[Big Secz 26]

1970 was different. In '69 the proportioning valve was external of the distribution block as shown in the picture. In '70 the proportioning valve was internal to the distribution block.

 

'69

http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/p/13905-Brake-Distribution-Block-Proportioning-Valve-Assembly-Disc-Power-Brake-Repro-1968-1969-Mercury-Cougar-1968-1969-Ford-Mustang.html

 

'70

http://www.classicrods.com/mbm-1960-70s-ford-proportioning-valve/

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i started off with the valve set half way. i've slowly kept turning it up to the point I don't think I really need it. Time will tell.

 

mine is mounted on the firewall (knob down so it's a little less noticeable).

 

[RPM 1,190]

Oops, I again misread a post. Sorry about that. I bolted mine to the firewall. It's a Wilwood and plenty light, but don't think I'd run it not bolted down. Too much vibrations to sorry about. If you get the small cylinder style prop valve I wouldn't worry about bolting it down. I used that style on a 56 F100 without issue.

 

 

 

Bob

[prayers1 153]

It looks like you guys have custom lines. I'm unfortunate, since I'm working with the actual stock line, it's a lot harder to bend.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

It looks like you guys have custom lines. I'm unfortunate, since I'm working with the actual stock line, it's a lot harder to bend.

 

i purchased pre-bent stainless and had to work those parts into the system.

[Big Secz 26]

It looks like you guys have custom lines. I'm unfortunate, since I'm working with the actual stock line, it's a lot harder to bend.

 

Personally, I would replace the stock drum brake distribution block with a '70 disc brake proportioning valve. I'm not sure if the threaded fittings on the drum brake lines are the same size as disc brakes. Below is a link that shows the measurements for the disc brake prop valve. Also it wouldn't hurt to call Chockostang and ask them, they are good people and very knowledgeable.

 

But if you are doing a swap with factory style disc brakes then I think you may be over-thinking this whole process. I had manual drums on my Torino and swapped over to factory style power disc. I purchased the disc prop valve and a new set of disc brake lines which totaled right around $200 (for prop valve and hard lines). But the trade off was knowing that everything was going to be a direct bolt on and that I wasn't going to have to spend time modifying anything. A little extra money for less time and less headache is well worth it to me.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/65-66-68-70-73-MUSTANG-DISC-BRAKE-PROPORTIONING-VALVE-/231213435322?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1970|Model%3AMustang&hash=item35d56509ba&vxp=mtr

[prayers1 153]

I guess I did over think and hard lesson learned.

 

Actually, I have a 70 Prop/Dist valve, I spoke to Ckockostang and he's the one who told me not to bother, just use the 69 Manual Dist block and put a rear porp, valve for the rear. He supplied everything, including the 1974 Maverick master cylinder.

 

I could of used the original lines (drum front hard lines) but the motor and trans are out as well as the entire front suspension and I had the stupid ideal to get 70 front lines, I thought it would be easier, then I said why not replace all the lines, so I bought a front to back hard line. Problem is on the pre-formed lines there is another line over the original,somewhat of a protector and it made it so hard to bend. Long story short I wound up getting lines made at NAPA just to route the new master to the manual dist block and the rear port valve. I'll have to show picture, even I;m getting confused.

 

Buckeye, good to know to start with 1/2 way on the valve.

[Big Secz 26]

Ok...I see where Chocko was coming from. First of all if you are going from manual drum to manual disc, then to save having to replace hard lines his suggestion is just to cut and splice in the external '69 prop valve in the rear. That makes since....However if you are going from manual drum to power disc, the hard lines up front are different because the master cylinder sits farther away from the firewall due to the brake booster.

[prayers1 153]

Your correct on the Power vs. Manual cylinders, but the reason why I'm using a 74 Maverick Master cylinder is that it is Manual Disc.

 

I like where you guys mounted the rear prop. valve against the firewall. My lines look like a bunch of spaghetti and are dry fitted. I'll take the rear line and have NAPA shorten it to fit the prop valve against the fire wall.

[shaun071 62]

Another way around this problem is to use smaller wheel cylinders in the rear drums. Factory rear cylinders are 7/8", so use 13/16". This is a common swap here in Australia where we use readily available Aussie Falcon front disc set up (identical to stock 69-70 front brakes) with Falcon wheel cylinders (13/16) without the prop valve. I believe stock big block 69-70 Mustangs came with 13/16" rear wheel cylinders.

[prayers1 153]

shaun071 - I really don't like to experiment with the brakes, but that is very interesting to know. If what I have doesn't work (and I can't see why not) I'd go with a 70 Pro/dist block.

 

Here's a picture of my spaghetti lines. You can see the line going to the bottom of the valve is double wrapped and is too hard to bend, that's why the valve is in it's present position.

 

After seeing what others have done, I make the switch to the firewall by splicing in between the line and getting rind of the double wrapped line.

Edited April 27, 2014 by prayers1

[ashleesmach1 28]

Here a nice vid on how to restore your proportioning valve and distribution block!