Mike65 476 Report post Posted January 22, 2014 I am in the process of replacing the r/s front inner fender panel on my 69 Coupe & while I was measuring to test fit the repo part I noticed the shock towers according to my previous measurements have sagged inward about 1/4". What have people here used to spread them?. I do not have a port-a-power, but I was thinking maybe I can make up something using my pipe clamps. Any ideas or suggestions?. TIA, Mike. 1 Lucieswide reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kris 90 Report post Posted January 22, 2014 Bottle jack and a 4x4. I have a long arm bottle jack and put a piece of 2x4 flat on each end to keep from damaging anything. If you have a small bottle jack, it will work too but I would use a 4x4 so it wont have as much chance of slipping. It will take more than one person to do it though unless you come up with a flat surface that you can sit everything on. My sag was very minor and was just barely enough to not let the monte carlo bar slip in without spreading it. I think it was 1/8" or less, cant recall off hand. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
det0326 179 Report post Posted January 22, 2014 I am in the process of replacing the r/s front inner fender panel on my 69 Coupe & while I was measuring to test fit the repo part I noticed the shock towers according to my previous measurements have sagged inward about 1/4". What have people here used to spread them?. I do not have a port-a-power, but I was thinking maybe I can make up something using my pipe clamps. Any ideas or suggestions?.TIA, Mike. Mike, What should the measurement be and where are you taking the measurement from? You have my curiosity up now. Dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted January 22, 2014 Mike, What should the measurement be and where are you taking the measurement from? You have my curiosity up now. Dave Mine is 40" between the inner aprons just in front of the towers at my Monte Carlo bar. I've seen that number on different forums. Is anyone else having problems with photobucket? Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
det0326 179 Report post Posted January 23, 2014 Mine is 40" between the inner aprons just in front of the towers at my Monte Carlo bar. I've seen that number on different forums.Is anyone else having problems with photobucket? Bob Yes photobucket must be down for maintenance Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 476 Report post Posted January 23, 2014 I have taken many measurements from the l/s to the r/s inner fender panels from the edges of the holes in the top of the inner fender panels where the fender bolt clips go in & from the inner most forward shock cap bolt l/s to r/s, & diagonal l/s rear to r/s front & r/s rear to l/s front. I just want to make sure all my measurements are as close as I can get them before welding in the new inner fender panels. I just tried to log on to photobucket & had no problem. BTW measuring at the front of the shock towers where the monte carlo bar will mount my measurement is at 39". The measurements I have are what my car was before removing the r/s front inner fender panel, I do not know what it should be. Thanks for the bottle jack idea Kris, I will give it a try this weekend. Mike. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted January 23, 2014 I've used two sections of all-thread with a coupler nut in the middle. You can use anything from wood or steel plate at the end, you just have to make sure it doesn't slide due to the curve of the towers. When I pushed mine out it was for a monte carlo bar, and I had the shock tower caps removed and the shock top pushed down so that I could use the back edge of the shock tower hole for the brace of my steel plate that was welded to the all-thread. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted January 23, 2014 Correction, I used wood blocks at the end. See attached. Now that I own a welder, it would have welded plates because the allthread wanted to spin (thus the two vice grips holding the all thread. It was a two handed operation, but with welded plates it becomes one-handed. BTW it started to bend in the picture because I reached the point where it wouldn't move any more because the motor mounts were restricting more movement. With adjustable motor mounts, I loosened them up and got it to spread to the correct width without any bending of the allthread. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 476 Report post Posted January 23, 2014 Thanks for the ideas. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 476 Report post Posted February 16, 2014 I've used two sections of all-thread with a coupler nut in the middle. You can use anything from wood or steel plate at the end, you just have to make sure it doesn't slide due to the curve of the towers. When I pushed mine out it was for a monte carlo bar, and I had the shock tower caps removed and the shock top pushed down so that I could use the back edge of the shock tower hole for the brace of my steel plate that was welded to the all-thread. buening, Where did you get the all thread & the coupler nut from, & what diameter threaded rod did you use?. Mike. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted February 16, 2014 Local hardware or Menard's/Lowes will have them in the section where you can buy angle iron and sheet metal. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jwscarab 20 Report post Posted February 18, 2014 I wonder if one of those "HOLD-IT" bars would work that you use for the back of pickup truck beds to keep stuff from sliding around? It is adjustable like a helm joint, and it has rubber padded swivel feet on both ends. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
