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Flanders

rear shocks

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My rear Monroe Max-Air shock absorbers are looking very worn (rubber bushings very dry/brittle) and by the looks of things have had 0 air pressure in them for quite some time. Unless there's a trick to get air into them, I'd say they're shot. (air pressure gauge shows 0, and compressor and hand pump are unable to pressurize them).

 

What's recommended for the rear, for a casual driver? Not heading to the track anytime soon, as the car is just for cruising around.

 

Should I pick up another set of these Monroe Max-Air shocks?

 

I've seen a few posts here with these gas-a-just shocks:

http://www.themustangshop.ca/product/1513398/466754

 

And a few more posts recommending kyb GR2's.

http://www.themustangshop.ca/product/1513499/466754

 

The GR2's are pretty cheap, but I don't want to have to buy another set in a few years because the ride height and/or dampening sucks.

 

Recommendations?

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Were those Monroe-Max Air shocks an aide for sagging springs? It's normally why they are used, unless it's to gain clearance for wheels/tires which don't fit. Maybe a new set of springs, and some quality shocks, would be best? The shocks shouldn't be used to set ride heights. Springs set the height.

Edited by Powershift

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It's probably a good thing your air shocks are shot. If they were pumped up, it's likely they would have damaged the upper mounting area. That area is just sheet metal and it's not designed to support the extra stress from air shocks. I've seen pictures of cars where an air shock punched right through. Same goes for the "load" shocks that have a spring around the outside. (Not to be confused with high performance coil over shocks. Those use a completely different mounting system.)

 

There are many opinions on shocks. Koni, Bilstein and KYB are popular, but not cheap. If you're just cruising, I would recommend any quality, gas shocks.

 

But it does sound like you have worn springs. So, check the ride height after you install the new shocks. If the rear is sagging, it's time for new leaf springs.

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Powershift: Good question -- these were installed by a previous owner, and by the looks of things, quite some time ago! The leaf springs don't look like they're sagging, but my untrained eye could be wrong. With zero pressure in the shocks, the ride height looks just fine so I don't think the leafs are completely shot.

 

I've seen a link on here before, but what's the stock height supposed to be in the rear? Otherwise, how can one tell if the leafs are worn?

Edited by Flanders

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This is just my personal opinion backed up by absolutely 0 facts or experience.

 

I have been looking at both the Gas-A-Just and the GR2 shocks for quite a while. Both have gotten good reviews. I have settled on the GR2s. I don't recall exactly why off hand, but I think it had to do with the ride quality. If I recall, you get a smoother (not necessarily softer) ride from the GR2s. Plus the GR2s are cheaper (which always helps, in my case).

 

Chuck

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Flanders,

 

If those are the original leaf springs, they are likely worn out and sagging. It's hard to tell because the wear occurrs slowly, and most of us don't have a new OEM 1969 Mustang for comparison. I replaced mine during the restoration and could not believe how tall the ride height was with new OE replacement springs. I ended up pulling them off and exchanging them for a 1" lowering spring. As far as shocks, all I can add is I'd stay away from air shocks and also high pressure gas shocks (like the KYB Gas-A-Just). The springs control the ride height and quality and I guess you can say the shocks dampen and control the oscillations.

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Just another version of what others have said above.

 

I'd definitely stay away from the air shocks. Since you've been riding with 0 psi in them already, it seems safe to say that they're not needed, and a 'real' shock should be used in their place. One that's meant for shock absorbtion instead of setting ride height. As for the brand, that's a matter of personal preference with regard to ride quality/performance handling.

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Thanks for the tips guys. Looks like I'll pick up a set of the KYB GR2's and be done with it! If it's sagging in the rear after the swap, I'll see about the leaf springs (I need to dig through a pile of P.O. mechanic invoices to see if they were replaced somewhat recently).

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Rear leaf springs aren't hard to change. My brother and I did it on a friend's 67 coupe in an afternoon. About the only "specialty" tool we had was an electric impact wrench and u-joints for it. The springs are also not terribly expensive. Might want to think about changing them, if you can't find evidence they've ever been changed.

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Rear leaf springs aren't hard to change. My brother and I did it on a friend's 67 coupe in an afternoon. About the only "specialty" tool we had was an electric impact wrench and u-joints for it. The springs are also not terribly expensive. Might want to think about changing them, if you can't find evidence they've ever been changed.

 

good to know :thumbup1: this will be a decision for next year, as my budget has already been torn to shreds this year :)

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