Idler arm frame hole is oversized

[very fat and very dumb 40]

Does anyone have a good fix for this? I beleive it was like this when I put it together, I though it would be OK...NOT. Alignment guys say it needs to be fixed.

 

I was thinking of using my wire feed to fill the hole then redrill it. Fun stuff. It would have been much easier when it was on the rotisserie.

 

Thanks.

[69gmachine 15]

On the driver's side, the steering box has steel sleeves inside the frame rail. You could use something similar like the steel tubes for an anti sway bar link since the OD would be much larger and would likely fit inside the already oversized hole.

[LoneWolf2U 136]

IIRC, A steel 3/8 pipe will have the right size for the bolt to pass thru it.

Simply make the hole large enought to slide the pipe thru the frame rail and weld it in.

I've repaired frame rail rear shackle points this way.

There should have been a crush sleeve in place from the factory.

[RPM 1,190]

Have you checked it yourself? Is the bolt sloppy when the nuts are loose? If the crush sleeve is bad, get some tubing which fits over the 1/2" idler arm mounting bolt and mig it in. I'd 1st check locally for some tubing. McMaster Carr, The Chassis Shop and many other fab shops should have some cut offs lying around, or just buy 1 foot of it. Good luck.

[jmlay 80]

I agree I would weld a sleeve into the hole. here is what the inside of the drivers rail looks like:

 

[RPM 1,190]

Hmm, strange looking crush sleeve. Since that is what you're dealing with, could you not cut a hole about 1" in diameter out of the rail, and weld in a proper size washer so the bolt would be snug? You can buy non plated washers.

[very fat and very dumb 40]

I cut a section of frame rail out of my donor car, cut it up nicely and welded it in. I sealed the seams with body sealer as I did not weld it all the way around. I left the bottom open for drainage in case any water does get in there. It looks good, what do you guys think about my fix?