High temps

[JayEstes 172]

Looks like you found your problem, but was interested to find a sort of parallel story on the 71-73 stand site that had a different outcome:

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-temp-climbs-to-230

[1969vert 55]

Pressure behind the t,stat? Really? If it blows.somthing is wrong...i hope you just had a bad stat...without one you can flow water so fast it will not cool ....seen it happen down the freeway...

Edited July 13, 2012 by 1969vert

[buening 63]

Yep, bad idea to run without a tstat. Make sure you had the tstat installed correctly and not backwards

[LoneWolf2U 136]

Well, did the burp deal. I think I did it right. Fired it up with the front tires 3" off the ground. open cap. let it heat up till the t-stat opened. great flow through the rad! flow coming in from the top hose towards the pass side intake hose on water pump. Temp went to 195 with cap off. put cap on, lowered car it walked up to 220 degrees. had to shut it down. let it cool to 200 and got cap off, yes, released pressure slowly. ran it again with cap off, it went to 220 again and I shut it down. errupted and let about half a gallon out.:cursing:. how many times do you need to burp this thing?

 

let me get this CCW & CW deal. Engine turns CCW when sitting in the car when they specify CW on the pumps, do they mean from the front of the car?

 

Will be removing t-stat later once it cools.

 

Do you have a heater core hooked up?

If yes, you need to turn the temp control to heat so it allows coolant to pass thru the hoses and core or you will never get out the air trapped inside.

Do NOT run it without a stat or restrictor of some sort installed.

Lack of coolant flow control can cause it to run hot at higher speeds.

It also runs the possiabilty of ballooning your rad tank from too much water pressure as your using a high flow pump.

 

Check you stat by placing it in a pan of water with a therm and heat it.

Keep wacthing it as temp rises and note temp if and when it reaches fully open position. Your 180 stat should be in full open at about 187*.

If it works properly, reinstall and fill rad to just cover the coolant tubes.

Run engine without cap installed and watch for stat to open.

Now add coolant SLOWLY till it stays at about 1/2 in below top of tank/cap opening and the coolant is flowing freely.

Install cap and test drive.

[TX427Cobra 19]

I am new here but have significant experience with this and my 427 Cobra. The absolute first thing you need to do is get that timing right per the above instructions. Retarded timing can easily drive the engine up 20-30 degrees. Next, be 100% sure you installed a good, pre-tested t-stat in the right direction. Then get a cheap handheld IR temp gun at Home Depot and match the temps on your intake where the water leaves the engine versus what's on your gauge. Once you have the gauge confirmed, take some readings at the radiator inlet and outlet to confirm the radiator is cooling. You should see a 30+ degree change in temps from water in to water out. If you have a bad t-stat or its installed wrong that could be causing this. If you are solid on all fronts after this, I would talk to your engine builder. If clearances are too tight (not good) bearing temps could be causing this. Also, keep an eye on your oil color...if it starts getting milky, you have water entering the oil which could be a head gasket.

 

Edit>>> If you have to run it without a t-stat something is still wrong. Either bad t-stat or was installed wrong.

Edited July 18, 2012 by TX427Cobra

[ksquared 13]

I'm not sure exactly how the gauges work on a Mustang. I don't have any schematics handy right now. I am familiar with some other types of cars (i.e. Lotus). The gauges I know about are designed to work from a regulated 10 volts. If the regulator fails full on, the temp gauge can indicate 20-30 degrees high. The gauge will actually vary depending on the alternator output. On my Lotus, the instrument regulator is under the dash. Anybody know where I can find a 69 schematic?

[alan t 10]

Ive been fighting this same problem for a year now ,but its on a clevalend .The last thing i did was change the water pump speed ,it seems that a high flow water pump needs more water to work right.AT FIRST THE WATER PUMP WAS UNDER DRIVEN.meaning the water pump pulley was larger than the crank pulley ,now i have the crank and the water pump spinning the same rpm,both using 5 1/4 pulleys .It seems to be working, i can sit in traffic here in charlotte nc and not get over 210* when the outside temp is 95* and when you get rolling again its down to 195*.Good luck with your problem i hope this helps a little i know how your feeling .