Engine Trouble

[Cupid 10]

Maybe? Maybe not? But something just ain't right.

 

Okay, I can drive my car all day long and then some. The moment I stop for gas or something else in the 5-10 minute range, the car is hard to turn over. It eventually will, but the starter has to work significantly. If I stop for 30+ minutes the car is cooler and it turns over just fine. I have a high torque starter to no avail. No, the starter isn't getting hot plus it's wrapped.

 

One of my buddies (Chevy Guy) thinks I may have spun a bearing. Basically the metal is fusing together when the motor heats up. Well, i've been driving the car for maybe a year with this problem.(once or twice a month)

 

^Don't know if he's smokin' crack or what.

 

I haven't seen any metal shavings in the oil either.

 

Any bright ideas?

[LindenBruce 27]

You either have a bad electrical connection, a weak battery, or your timing is advanced to far.

 

Double check your grounds and make sure you have the ground strap from the firewall to the engine. Make sure all of your battery connections are clean and tight.

 

A weak cell in your battery could cause problems. Using a tester check the electrolytes in each cell of your battery.

 

Does your engine "ping" under hard acceleration? Use a good timing light to verify your initial timing settings. Bruce

[Cupid 10]

Battery connections and power are good. If the battery is bad, it's the second consecutive one. I'll take it back to Advance to have it checked. It's an Optima. It is in the trunk. Think the length may be the issue? Alternator is a Powermaster (don't like them too much b/c they constantly charge, but hey....)

 

I have a significant grounding system and the engine is grounded to the fender/frame.

 

I'd much rather change the wiring for my grounds and battery connection than pull the engine to no avail! *lol*

 

The hot wire is bulk wiring I got from Advance. *scratches head*

[Cupid 10]

No, it does not ping at all. Will report back with timing...

[jholmes217 65]

Sounds to me like you may have some heat issues causing the gas to boil in the carburator. Some call the heat soak, others call it vapor lock, some call it fuel boil. Do you have a phenolic or plastic carburator spacer between the carb and intake manifold?

[buening 63]

Sounds to me like you may have some heat issues causing the gas to boil in the carburator. Some call the heat soak, others call it vapor lock, some call it fuel boil. Do you have a phenolic or plastic carburator spacer between the carb and intake manifold?

 

+1. Edelbrock carbs are notorious for this. I'm not sure what carb you are using, but if its and Eddy get a phenolic spacer if space allows. If space is tight, Edelbrock sells what is basically a 1/4" thick gasket that alleviates this issue.

[PaleRider 12]

If it is cranking slowly when warmed up I'd bet it timing related. More noticeable as weather gets warmer. Check your timing to see if too advanced. If you dont have a light you can check by loosenenig up distributor and turn counter clockclise until it starts stumbling and then advance a hair. The try running till warm and then start up and see if you still have same problem. Should set your timing though. Can also get a heild sheild for your stater - Summit has them

Edited May 30, 2012 by PaleRider

[Cupid 10]

The engine is having problems turning over, not starting.... I'll definitely look at the timing.

[jholmes217 65]

The engine is having problems turning over, not starting.... I'll definitely look at the timing.

 

Trouble turning over after it's been driven for a while could also be a charging problem. How old is the alternator and battery?

[MaxLT 10]

I've seen several instances when the positive lead between the starter and starter solenoid has broken down/oxidized to the point where it still looks fine but gives all sorts of hot start problems.

 

As copper wiring gets warmer it naturally gets more resistant to electron flow and when it's old/oxidized it can get really bad.

 

With your battery in the trunk, I'd make sure that you have a dedicated ground lead all the way back to the engine block as well if you don't already.

 

So, it may be worth the $7.00 to try swapping out the starter lead first before going any further.

Edited May 30, 2012 by MaxLT

[LoneWolf2U 136]

The engine is having problems turning over, not starting.... I'll definitely look at the timing.

 

Back the timing down 2-4 degrees and test run the eng.

Your fighting the hot compression stroke.

[1969mustang 10]

I've had this problem with a 427 and a high torque/gear reduction starter along with a new battery solved it. The problem only occurred when the car was hot and then turned off for a few minutes. I would also make Sure that the battery and starter cable you have are plenty big enough especially if the battery is in the trunk.

[LindenBruce 27]

Yes, do you know what gauge battery cables you have? The longer the run the larger the cables need to be. I would be using at least a #2 gauge if not a single "O" gauge. Optima's are really good batteries and since it's your second that's prolly not the problem.

 

It's either timing or battery cable gauge is to small. Bruce

[Cupid 10]

Definitely a 2 gauge wire, but I question the quality of it. It's not a "solid" copper, but a "stranded" one. It made it easier to do the cable run. May go to 0 gauge since it is in the trunk as a percaution. What brands of cable are you guys using?

[LSwat 10]

I see a lot of posts stating grounding and wire size, it is a little uncommon since the battery is in the trunk but isn't it stated this is only a problem when it is hot? Wouldn't cabling cause this hard to turn over issue when it is cold too? Maybe i'm missing something :confused:

 

Either way I hope it's a simple fix and wish you the best of luck with the information provided thus far. Be sure to let us know what you determine it is.

[LindenBruce 27]

I would use a Standard branded or automotive product. You might be able to find cabeling at a welding supply store. Anything larger than 10ga will be a stranded copper cable. I would be leery about using cable made for car stereo/amplifier applications which seems to be very prolific.

 

Check out these guys http://custombatterycables.com/index.htm They have some really good info about cables. They specifically say to stay away from the oxygen free stereo cables for starter applications.

 

Bruce

Edited May 31, 2012 by LindenBruce

[Lemon Owner 11]

I see a lot of posts stating grounding and wire size, it is a little uncommon since the battery is in the trunk but isn't it stated this is only a problem when it is hot? Wouldn't cabling cause this hard to turn over issue when it is cold too? Maybe i'm missing something :confused:

 

Either way I hope it's a simple fix and wish you the best of luck with the information provided thus far. Be sure to let us know what you determine it is.

 

Hot wiring causes resistence, one of the first rules of electrics. Combine that with a bad earth and heavy current draw equals no cranking.

 

I have this same issue and beyond a shadow of a doubt it is my cables failing. The problem is finding where it is.

[Cupid 10]

Okay, I checked the recommended specs of my Cam. They recommended between 10-14* degrees btdc. I was at 15*. I backed it down to 11* right off the bat. It definitely helped some. There was a still a little hesitation. Then I changed the + cable out and haven't had the problem since. I'm hoping the combination of the two solved it!

 

I have to make a confession: I had welding wire as my hot wire running from the trunk. Apparently that's a bad idea...*doh*

 

FYI: Advance Auto has 2 gauge cable in bulk ($1.78 a foot).

[69gmachine 15]

Now that you've found the problem, one more preventative maintenance action you can take is to spray a rubber coating over the connection at the starter. It will prevent corrosion and keep it from backing off which could both cause a similar problem down the road.