Suspension rebuild

[TexasEd 191]

As I reported in my project progress thread I was hoping to put off suspension modifications for a year but in repairing the power steering leaks and other issues I can now see how bad the situation is and I'm falling into the "While I'm at it" trap.

 

My goal is to have a mostly stock appearance car. Long term I also want to add front disc brakes, but I don't really have the budget for brakes and everything else. I want the stance to be a little lower than stock, but not tucked. Eventually I'll buy some 15" Magnum 500 wheels for it.

 

Here are the relevant pictures. I don't have a picture of the UCA pivot or the LCA at this point but I can take them tonight.

 

UCA bushing:

 

Spindle to outer tie rod:

 

Tie rod to center link:

 

Sway bar:

 

 

Assuming I have a rebuilt power steering system and a new idler arm with rubber busing in hand what are the recommendations at this point?

 

I would do a UCA drop and roller spring perches at the same time, I guess I don't know if swapping out to new control arms or switching to roller bearing control arms is worth the expense. If it is I'll do it but it may take me a few months to save for it.

 

I also need new springs and shocks.

Edited May 15, 2012 by TexasEd

[Ash 145]

When I was looking around previously, I found these packages from Laurel Mountain. They do quite a few variations and for the money they appear to be quite good.

 

http://www.laurelmountainmustang.com/t/model-years/1969-70/kits-save-money-with-our-kits/steering-and-suspension-kits/front-steering-and-suspension-kits

[LoneWolf2U 136]

Do yourself a favor, Buy a total kit!

Not only are these cars 40+ years old,Not knowing what was done or not.

A kit is the simplest way to go.

Do it once and do it right. Add an Arning drop template to your list.

Simple mod that make it handle alittle better.

ANd seeing how you've got the while I'm at it itis, Clean and paint the inner and replace the brakes too. :yes:

[Lemon Owner 11]

I agree totally, replace the lot. The kits are so cheap why the hell not!

[JayEstes 173]

The kits are really great, but lets face it, if you are on a budget, they might not feel the greatest on your pocket ($300-$500). Here some thoughts, looking at the pic above (some guessing involved).

 

The UCA pic is a 4 bolt ball joint. I suspect that joint is gone, as the boot which holds the grease is gone. But you can replace the ball joint for ~$25 (maybe less if you shop around):

http://www.laurelmountainmustang.com/products/65-73-4-bolt-upper-ball-joint

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQFordQQMustangQQMoogQQBall_JointQQ19651969QQMOK8036.html?apwcid=P1135867996W43b3f85c7ab9e&apwid49zfAv8

 

On the UCA, it's very hard to know the condition of the rotation point where it mounts to the shock tower. I thought mine were good until they were off the car AND I disassembled the rotation nuts from the sides of the UCA. Then I found that the threads which fasten the nuts to the UCA were worn out, and could no longer be tightened. But...

 

You could just go grease the UCA mounts really well, there are no rubber boots on that joint, & replace the ball joint, live with the spring perch as is (maybe a touch of oil to help it move), and see how it goes. Total UCA cost less $30/side.

 

The tie-rod to spindle joint looks like it might be ok. Just clean it up and grease it good, the boot looks to still be usable from what I can see. (no cost)

 

The centerlink joint boot looks shot, so replace the boot and grease it (<$10)

 

The sway bar is a really cheap fix. both end link bushing kit for $10 (includes bushings, bolt, washers). Another $10 will replace the rubber bushings on the vehicle frame (but these don't wear as much as the others. take the sway bar completely off, wire brush it, and even paint it, then $20 worth of kits and it's brand new.

http://stang-aholics.com/ShowItem/107073%2068-73%20Sway%20Bar%20End%20Link%20Kit.aspx

 

You will probably need new LCA's these take a lot and the ball-joint is usually made as a part of the arm (riveted on). about $35 for each.

 

Point is, you could fix a LOT of that for not that much money ($150 maybe for all).

 

It gets you out of having to do the shelby-drop (only template cost), the spring perches ($25/side), and upper UCA arms (all new about $60/side). You should do those 3 together whenever you do go in that deep.

 

Just thoughts. See what you think.

 

Jay

[TexasEd 191]

I looked at the UCA and LCAs better last night and it looks like one of the rubber bushings on the spring perches is out too. You can see the rubber pulled back on the right side.

 

 

 

What is the tag hanging at the bottom of the UCA?

 

I'm thinking of buying all replacement parts instead of putting new joints and bushings on the old ones. I want the original style but with the upgrade to roller perches. I would do roller control arms if the price was manageable.

 

My problem is that family obligations have used up all my money and put me in a small debt hole (Grass in yards for kids 3 & 5 and refinancing closing costs on house) to dig out of before I can really afford anything but like anyone, I would like to drive this car since it has been about 20 years since I've been able to do that.

 

If the best plan is to save and do it I will, but it might take me 6-12 months to be able to get there.

 

I've been looking at the Open Tracker products and I think the prices on the track control arms are out of my league but the drag strip parts might work. I don't have a machine press and I'm fairly certain these are all 43 year old parts.

 

I think I can afford the Laurel Mountain kits now.

If I want Open Tracker products I'll have to save up.

 

I think I should also replace the shock tower braces with an export brace at the same time.

Edited May 16, 2012 by TexasEd

[TexasEd 191]

I think I need advice from those that have replaced parts with the upgraded roller perches and control arms to help me decide on the cost/benefit trade off.

[LoneWolf2U 136]

From the been there done it files...

First is what you want out of the handing and saftey of the car?

 

For a good driver, I have done a complete front suspension, steering and brake replacement with just roller perches for under 1K.

Using this box I took some time to look up all the parts as individual first and comparing to the kits by checking off the list for all the parts(some kits are small and not complete) But it was worth it.

 

And the budget came from selling off old parts and alum cars.

But when I had all the parts collected and ready, It was a simple remove all the old, clean and install the new.

[SELLERSRODSHOP 13]

I think I need advice from those that have replaced parts with the upgraded roller perches and control arms to help me decide on the cost/benefit trade off.

 

best advice i can give you is shoot a email to john at opentracker & see what he recommends. he wont tell you something to sell parts, he'll shoot you straight & advise you as to whats best for your situation. IMO you wont drive the car hard enough to need the rollerized upper & lower arms. john does sell the regular control arms, but takes them apart first, deburrs, centers the cross shafts & after assembly, welds a tab on the arm to keep the shaft nuts from turning. those are the ones i recently purchased along with the roller spring perches. shoot him a note before you buy anything & tell him 'sellersrodshop" sent you.

[Grabber70Mach 107]

best advice i can give you is shoot a email to john at opentracker & see what he recommends. he wont tell you something to sell parts, he'll shoot you straight & advise you as to whats best for your situation. IMO you wont drive the car hard enough to need the rollerized upper & lower arms. john does sell the regular control arms, but takes them apart first, deburrs, centers the cross shafts & after assembly, welds a tab on the arm to keep the shaft nuts from turning. those are the ones i recently purchased along with the roller spring perches. shoot him a note before you buy anything & tell him 'sellersrodshop" sent you.

 

+1 John is a asset to this hobby.

[TexasEd 191]

I've got an e-mail out to John at Opentracker Racing Products.

 

I said I basically need a whole kit like the laurel mountain kit listed but with roller perches and his improved UCA.

 

A poster here offered up some springs too, so depending on how shipping prices out I might get them separately.