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miketyler

Headers are too low

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when i took my engine to the dyno to break it in and test it etc. the dyno owner also built motors at all levels from street to high end race and only uses a gasket maker... no paper or special gaskets to deal with..

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Wow those ports at the flange look like crap (pic 3). It looks as if they just took a mig and welded a bead on the flange and then ground it down.

 

my FPAs are the same way. in fact, a number of headers i've seen look that way. the tubes need welded somewhere. how are the tubes on your headers welded to the flange?

 

i have a gasket on mine and haven't seen any signs of leakage yet.

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So did anyone come up with a tight fitting long tube header for this application? I am wanting to run 3" pipes out the car and would really like to run out of longs. I will add a link to Photobucket to my build and the same clearence issue. If anyone has pics of the ground clearence and the type of headers you are using I would really appriciate it.

 

http://s1104.photobucket.com/albums/h336/rages6971/2012-10-03%2070%20Mustangs%20Header%20malfunction/

 

http://s1104.photobucket.com/albums/h336/rages6971/Engine%20Fit-up/

 

The second link Is what the engine compartment looks like at th moment. I am currently starting bodywork besides these stupid malfunctions like the headers....

 

PS. the wheels on the car are just to roll it around, I have some nice 18's that tuck up under the wheel wells.

 

Here is a link with the 18's fitted on the car. I am not getting tires until paint is finished, but the plan is 265-35-18 front and 285-35-18 rear. I have done a lot of measuring and guess I will just have see if it all pays off.

 

PS. who ever it was that on this site that said they ran 18's (18x10 front & 18x12"s rear) and a stock suspension without any wheel mods or suspension mods, I am call BS! Prove it!

 

http://s1104.photobucket.com/albums/h336/rages6971/18%20inch%20fit%20up/

Edited by Rages6971

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After thinking it over I decided to go with their recommendation and applied Permatex Ultra Blue silicone based sealer. Both sides are on now and I have clearance everywhere (no malletizing necessary) Hopefully my exhaust guy can bend up tubes that will stay tucked in.

 

Have any of you guys running these had issues with leaks?

 

Really? They recommend Ultra Blue? That's only 500F. Are you sure they werent recommending that for the collector? Hopefully you will be fine but I personally wouldnt use that at the head flange. Ultra Copper I have used at the collectors. I prefer some flange work (as stated here already they all seem to need some for flatness, port matching and welds), a gasket, and even torque. Also, rechecking the torque as well.

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No, not yet. I have been too focused on the shaker and all the electrical accessory mods so I can get put the instrument panel back in for good. It may be putting the cart before the mule but I figured it all needs to be done. It will run this year.

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Mike, Any updates?

 

Running 15" rims with stock suspension, would the Hooker Headers work. What seems to be the problem with in the engine bay, suspension, pwr steeering and z-bar?

Is the only reason why your having problems is that the car is lowered.

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No, not really. I did get the proper stepped band clamps for the stainless exhaust. I need to trim the pipes to locate X pipe and trim legth for the tips. As far as the issues I originally posted this for,most are now resolved since I bought the Sandies. As long as you arent dropping your car 4" like I did and are pretty handy with a hammer the Hooker long tubes should work. My car has AOD so no Zbar to contend with but you most assuredly will have some sort of fitment issues.

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I went with the sanderson`s on my 351c. The hookers that were on there way too low. I raised up the exhaust about 1.5" - 2" with the sanderson`s. The sound was a bit different as well, not as hollow. I actually prefer the sound now to what it was. And the quality of the headers were not that good. There mig`d and not tig welded. I`m use to the import world were everything is tig and purge welded, these were far from and lots of splater. I actually spent a few hrs cleaning up the welds and slag inside of them. There is not really much options out there, for headers on a cleveland in a mustang tho.

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