Any differences in gas tanks and fuel senders?

[TexasEd 189]

Even though it isn't worth restoring to concours standards I'm going for a stock look with my car.

 

CJ PONY has a gas tank regular $125 on sale for $100 ships 5-7 days (free shipping)

NPD has theirs at $89 plus $23 shipping for $111

 

Anyone know of differences?

 

What about the fuel sending units?

I'll also be getting a new neck and rubber connector hose. I have my original clamps.

 

I guess I also need seam sealer and have read there are differences. I guess I want something that is on a roll that you lay out under the lip of the tank.

 

Thanks,

Ed

[69gmachine 15]

Some of them have drain plugs and some do not. Some of the sending units have brass floats, some have plastic. Some of the brass floats don't (float that is; bad soldering).

[stangnet33 88]

What year is your car(guessing a '69) ? If not concours get the '70 tank, it holds a couple of gallons more then the '69 tank.

Edited March 26, 2012 by stangnet33

[TexasEd 189]

1969 - See under my name at left.

 

The 69 tank sits flush in the trunk. I thought the 70 tank popped up an inch or two, maybe not. Either way, I want the new tank to sit flush.

 

Regardless, I'll probably have the tank half full most of the time because I'll probably drive it 50-100 miles a month.

 

 

 

I'm also thinking about detailing and painting the trunk while the tank is out. I have a small hole in the trunk floor that needs to be repaired too. It looks like there might have been a weld cut out from underneath there. It does not look like a rust hole. I need to dig into it.

Edited March 26, 2012 by TexasEd

[JTG 10]

I would definitely get a tank with a drain. If for any reason the car has to sit for a long period it will make it a lot easier to get the gas out than trying to use a syphon.

[LindenBruce 27]

You're right TexasEd. The 70 tank IS taller inside of the trunk than a 69. That's because the 70 tank is a 22 gallon tank where as the 69 is a 20 gallon. The sending units are different as well. If you get another 69 tank make sure you get the 69 sending unit.

 

Drain plug is a real plus. Buy strips of 3M Strip Caulk at your local paint store and apply that to the bottom lip of your tank before reinstalling it. That will help keep moisture out of your trunk along with poisonous exhaust fumes. Bruce

[TexasEd 189]

Thanks all.

 

CJ Pony has a kit with almost everything I need in it:

http://www.cjponyparts.com/fuel-tank-kit-premium-with-drain-plug-1969/p/XFTK2/

 

I don't need the tank mounting hardware but I need everything else. I will add a new filler neck and filler mounting screws to the list plus new 5/8" fuel line to connect the steel lines and I should be good.

 

I don't suppose there is any economical way of salvaging the old filler neck that has some minor corrosion on the inside of the tube?

Edited March 26, 2012 by TexasEd

[LindenBruce 27]

Sure, take it to a local machine shop and have them go over it using their glass bead machine. I did that to mine and it came out great. Bruce

[TexasEd 189]

There isn't a coating on it?

 

If not I can snake a polishing wheel in there with the dremel and save $24.

[LindenBruce 27]

I don't know if it is a natural as made finish like the hood hinges or if it had a silver cadnium finish. I clear coated the exterior of mine after bead blasting it. It's been in storage for like five years now kicking around inside of an uninsulated shed and no signs of surface rusting. Bruce

[jmlay 80]

There are now stainless steel tanks, I know it is more money but in the long run may be a good investment...

[TexasEd 189]

I tried cleaning my neck with a dremel and decided to buy a new one. My time is better spent on restoring more expensive parts.

[Grabber70Mach 107]

I would consider the SS tank since you plan on keeping the car.